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2001 Acura CL PCM connector

Old 02-02-2010, 05:08 PM
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2001 Acura CL PCM connector

Can someone help me locate where the PCM connector is and how to reset it?
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Old 02-07-2010, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by dpark1020 View Post
Can someone help me locate where the PCM connector is and how to reset it?
Can you explain us more precisely what are you trying to do?
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Old 11-05-2018, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by dpark1020 View Post
Can someone help me locate where the PCM connector is and how to reset it?
Were there any reply's to this? I am looking to reset my PCM too.
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Old 11-05-2018, 05:55 PM
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Interior fuse box – passenger’s side fuse #13. Clock, Back Up, Small Light. Pulling that will reset the ECU.


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Old 11-05-2018, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
<h3>Interior fuse box – passenger’s side fuse #13. Clock, Back Up, Small Light. Pulling that will reset the ECU.</h3>
I'll give it a try Iggy. Thank you.
From what I read in the forum:
ECU : engine control unit (on manual models)
PCM : powertrain control module (automatics)
I also read:
1. Get in your car, it doesn't matter if you close the door or not.
2. Turn the key to the on (not start) position, the position just before the starter turns over.
3. Press the gas pedal to the floor with the key in the "on" position.
4. Hold the pedal to the floor for five seconds, then turn the key back to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
5. Wait 2 mins. for a full alignment.
6. Drive the car as you always do.Depending on your driving style, this may or may not be a big factor. I do a lot of city driving soI noticed a big change after erasing my history. It is not hard to do this, just follow the instructions -Key on, pedal down, 5 sec, key off pedal up, wait 2minutes.Keep the key in for the entire thing.Seems to work on mine.
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Old 11-06-2018, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by BOBSRED40 View Post
I'll give it a try Iggy. Thank you.
From what I read in the forum:
ECU : engine control unit (on manual models)
PCM : powertrain control module (automatics)
I also read:
1. Get in your car, it doesn't matter if you close the door or not.
2. Turn the key to the on (not start) position, the position just before the starter turns over.
3. Press the gas pedal to the floor with the key in the "on" position.
4. Hold the pedal to the floor for five seconds, then turn the key back to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
5. Wait 2 mins. for a full alignment.
6. Drive the car as you always do.Depending on your driving style, this may or may not be a big factor. I do a lot of city driving soI noticed a big change after erasing my history. It is not hard to do this, just follow the instructions -Key on, pedal down, 5 sec, key off pedal up, wait 2minutes.Keep the key in for the entire thing.Seems to work on mine.
I don't think this procedure will work for our cars. It works for 3rd gen AT which have a throttle by wire system with adaptive ECU's. Ours are plain old cable systems with not so sophisticated ECU's. Resetting this ECU on a 2nd gen will not yield the results I believe you are looking for.

Last edited by Iggy; 11-06-2018 at 07:36 AM.
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Old 11-06-2018, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
I don't think this procedure will work for our cars. It works for 3rd gen AT which have a throttle by wire system with adaptive ECU's. Ours are plain old cable systems with not so sophisticated ECU's. Resetting this ECU on a 2nd gen will not yield the results I believe you are looking for.
Thanks Iggy. You were right... So our cars have an ECU? I've been looking for this box, but I have no idea what it looks like. I was told it was behind the radio. Do you know where I can find some pictures. Someone sent me a schematic of which pins to check on the plug, but it doesn't do any good if I can't find the box or the connectors..
I am not good with the new cars and their computers. I don't have a ECU to swap even if I find it. I would take to a shop, but I don't trust any of them in our area.
I tried to start it again this morning with the same results. What I don't understand is why it runs perfect when I do get it started. Oh and the temp gauge starts out half way to hot when the engine is stone cold..
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Old 11-07-2018, 06:34 AM
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It would be helpful to know a little history and what the symptoms are exactly to point you in the right direction. It's fairly uncommon for the engine computers in these things to fail.

The ECU lives just to the left of where a passenger's left foot would be behind the carpet. The carpet can be pulled back easily to expose it.

BTW, the acronyms PCM and ECU are generally considered to be interchangeable when speaking of the "engine computer" . Kinda like Americans calling the engine cover a hood while the Brits call it a bonnet.

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Old 11-07-2018, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
It would be helpful to know a little history and what the symptoms are exactly to point you in the right direction. It's fairly uncommon for the engine computers in these things to fail.

The ECU lives just to the left of where a passenger's left foot would be behind the carpet. The carpet can be pulled back easily to expose it.

BTW, the acronyms PCM and ECU are generally considered to be interchangeable when speaking of the "engine computer" . Kinda like Americans calling the engine cover a hood while the Brits call it a bonnet.

Hi IggyThis is how it all started with this thread. I am not sure it is the computer, but I haven’t received any more codes to point me in a different direction. 2001 Acura TL Multi- Problems....Vitals: 2001 Acura TL with 130,000 miles. 3.2 VtecHistory so far... The problems all started a week ago when the battery went dead. I replaced the battery.
Now, in the morning it cranks for a long time, sounds like it pops back through the throttle body. Try’s real hard then starts. Once it starts, it starts and runs fine all day.I got a code P1676 TCSDL LINE N SIGNAL/FPT DRLINE LOW STUCK. After looking on the net, it lead me to the IAC. There is an excellent example on how to cure the problem on the forum. I removed the IAC and sure enough it was stuck. I took the stepper motor off and cleaned out all the carbon until the cylinder spun freely. Reassembled it and re installed it. Same problem with the starting… I then got a P0505 code. (IDLE CONTROL SYSTEM MALFUCTION). Thinking it was probably the stepper motor that had gone bad, I bought a new IAC and installed it. Didn’t solve the problem, but the code went away. Got it started after cranking on it and took it for a short drive on the freeway. Check engine light came on. Now I got a P1519 code (ENGINE RACV WIRE/INTERNAL CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION) after reading about the code, I thought it might be the connector going to the IAC. I cleaned it and plugged it back in. Now this morning… No codes, but the same starting problem. I did get it running and it seemed ok. Drove it for a while and now the temp needle is in the red…. I took the radiator cap off, (Very slowly) checked the coolant and it is not abnormally hot. Both fans were running and when I turned the engine off, the fans turned off too. One more item; when I rev the engine up and it idles down, I hear a puff back through the throttle body when it drops to 500rpm then goes to 800rpm. I don’t know it this is normal because I don’t drive it that often. It’s the wife’s car.I know this is a bit long to read, but any help would be appreciated. I usually do all my own work on our cars, but this one’s got my goat…. Also, anyone in the Vancouver WA area that might know a good honest Acura mechanic?
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Old 11-07-2018, 06:18 PM
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Considering this all started after changing the battery which requires fiddling with ground wires, and you are getting multiple codes that keep cropping up I would be suspect of a bad ground. Check the primary engine ground below the starter all the way up to the negative terminal of the battery. If you see any green crust or fraying wires that would be a good indicator. You could try a jumper cable connected between a good grounding point on the engine to the negative battery post and see if that helps.

It's also possible the system doesn't like your IACV. More than a few members have had bad luck with aftermarket control valves.
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Old 11-07-2018, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
Considering this all started after changing the battery which requires fiddling with ground wires, and you are getting multiple codes that keep cropping up I would be suspect of a bad ground. Check the primary engine ground below the starter all the way up to the negative terminal of the battery. If you see any green crust or fraying wires that would be a good indicator. You could try a jumper cable connected between a good grounding point on the engine to the negative battery post and see if that helps.

It's also possible the system doesn't like your IACV. More than a few members have had bad luck with aftermarket control valves.
I'll check the grounds. It's odd it all started with a dead battery. I tried to start it again today with no luck. It turns over great, it just doesn't fire.
I could put the old IACV back in, but that one did throw a code...
I did find the ECU. It was right behind the radio.
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Old 11-13-2018, 08:49 PM
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PROBLEM FIXED... There were a number of clues. I believe I mentioned the temperature gauge went to half way, when I turned on the key, and then into the red after I was able to start the engine. I read an artificial regarding the temperature sensor causing computer problems. I changed out the sensor and it started right up... Go figure...
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Old Yesterday, 08:00 AM
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Good find!
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