01 Acura CL Type S (NO HEAT) !!!!!
#1
01 Acura CL Type S (NO HEAT) !!!!!
When i turn on the heat only cold air blows out, the ac mode is off, the termostat should be fine since i'm not overheating, can anybody help me out.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Suzuka Master
Does anyone know how expenissive it is to fix it? sounds like a switch/controller issue, not total breakdown of the heater.
#3
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
there are 2 actuators one on either side of the center console under the dash. They are black and look very similar (may even be the same). one may be not working.
Also there is a valve behind the motor in the rad hose. it's pretty evident.. has a cord attached to it. May be seized which is why it's not moving..or could be the motor moving it.
Check those out.
should find the culprit. If it's none of those. then maybe the digital display doesn't work or something?? but i doubt it.
Also there is a valve behind the motor in the rad hose. it's pretty evident.. has a cord attached to it. May be seized which is why it's not moving..or could be the motor moving it.
Check those out.
should find the culprit. If it's none of those. then maybe the digital display doesn't work or something?? but i doubt it.
#4
there are 2 actuators one on either side of the center console under the dash. They are black and look very similar (may even be the same). one may be not working.
Also there is a valve behind the motor in the rad hose. it's pretty evident.. has a cord attached to it. May be seized which is why it's not moving..or could be the motor moving it.
Check those out.
should find the culprit. If it's none of those. then maybe the digital display doesn't work or something?? but i doubt it.
Also there is a valve behind the motor in the rad hose. it's pretty evident.. has a cord attached to it. May be seized which is why it's not moving..or could be the motor moving it.
Check those out.
should find the culprit. If it's none of those. then maybe the digital display doesn't work or something?? but i doubt it.
the digital display works fine, nothing wrong with that.
#5
Regional Coordinator (Texas)
iTrader: (38)
check the valve right in front of the firewall. thats what it will be, about 90% sure. hvae some one adjust the temperature and see if that cord moves. if not then, spray some wd40 on it and move it with hand and it will start working fine again. prolly just stuck
#6
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
mine is pristeen clean so getting seized would be kinda hard. but who knows.
personally. MY GUESS is
DUE TO OUR CARS HAVE ELECTRONIC ACTUATORS for the heat and cool. I would have to say the electronics is what failed...
good new tho is i bet u can find a TON of them anywhere u can find a CL. my guess is if that's the culprit then due to it's rareness you'll have no trouble at all getting a used one.
I'd love to know what the DLR price is lol
personally. MY GUESS is
DUE TO OUR CARS HAVE ELECTRONIC ACTUATORS for the heat and cool. I would have to say the electronics is what failed...
good new tho is i bet u can find a TON of them anywhere u can find a CL. my guess is if that's the culprit then due to it's rareness you'll have no trouble at all getting a used one.
I'd love to know what the DLR price is lol
#7
you got a pic of this valve, cant seem to find it lol
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#8
i just checked under my hood without starting the car this morning, look @ the reservoir box where the coolant, it like basically nothing there.
If the car warm up, the coolant reservoir will fill up correct ?
sorry for asking too many ?, just need to diagnose it
If the car warm up, the coolant reservoir will fill up correct ?
sorry for asking too many ?, just need to diagnose it
#9
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Check the radiator for coolant as well. You may have air in the system.
#10
#11
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
Bubbles??? that's a no no
take the rad cap off when motor is cold. start the motor and let it warm up completely. You will see the fluid beginning to rise and overflow. Tap the gas pedal and more bubbles will usually come out... EVEN little itty bitty bubbles. you want them all out to make sure that's not why you are having issues.
as for the valve is between the REAR of the motor and the FIREWALL. on the passenger side. In plain sight. the valve will have a cord on it also so that's what ur looking for.
It is the rad hose with a valve in the middle of it. The only one of its kinda on a car. that's the valve it could be. or the actuators
keep us posted
take the rad cap off when motor is cold. start the motor and let it warm up completely. You will see the fluid beginning to rise and overflow. Tap the gas pedal and more bubbles will usually come out... EVEN little itty bitty bubbles. you want them all out to make sure that's not why you are having issues.
as for the valve is between the REAR of the motor and the FIREWALL. on the passenger side. In plain sight. the valve will have a cord on it also so that's what ur looking for.
It is the rad hose with a valve in the middle of it. The only one of its kinda on a car. that's the valve it could be. or the actuators
keep us posted
Last edited by CL-S progression 01; 09-17-2010 at 06:57 PM.
#12
Bubbles??? that's a no no
take the rad cap off when motor is cold. start the motor and let it warm up completely. You will see the fluid beginning to rise and overflow. Tap the gas pedal and more bubbles will usually come out... EVEN little itty bitty bubbles. you want them all out to make sure that's not why you are having issues.
as for the valve is between the REAR of the motor and the FIREWALL. on the passenger side. In plain sight. the valve will have a cord on it also so that's what ur looking for.
It is the rad hose with a valve in the middle of it. The only one of its kinda on a car. that's the valve it could be. or the actuators
keep us posted
take the rad cap off when motor is cold. start the motor and let it warm up completely. You will see the fluid beginning to rise and overflow. Tap the gas pedal and more bubbles will usually come out... EVEN little itty bitty bubbles. you want them all out to make sure that's not why you are having issues.
as for the valve is between the REAR of the motor and the FIREWALL. on the passenger side. In plain sight. the valve will have a cord on it also so that's what ur looking for.
It is the rad hose with a valve in the middle of it. The only one of its kinda on a car. that's the valve it could be. or the actuators
keep us posted
#14
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Have someone inside the car move the temp knob while you look at the valve from the engine bay. Make sure it operates properly.
#15
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
i used liquid wrench on my brother's H22a Prelude to fix his. didn't work until it settled in though for a few days.. i shit u not.
also on the liquid wrench note. spray all of your brake line connections cause they rust out all the time and if u ever need to remove that and it is seized. you're looking at a whole new set of problems.
^(some a 50 year old chineese neighbor of mine does on his old ass POS toyota pickup whatever but some good advice none the less)
also on the liquid wrench note. spray all of your brake line connections cause they rust out all the time and if u ever need to remove that and it is seized. you're looking at a whole new set of problems.
^(some a 50 year old chineese neighbor of mine does on his old ass POS toyota pickup whatever but some good advice none the less)
#16
#17
Suzuka Master
the line that is outside firewall that moves the valve? how did you lube it? did you just spray it with wd40, or did you try to move it back and forth with your hands also? I just sprayed the whole thing, not sure if its working... it was intermittently working before
#19
the line that is outside firewall that moves the valve? how did you lube it? did you just spray it with wd40, or did you try to move it back and forth with your hands also? I just sprayed the whole thing, not sure if its working... it was intermittently working before
#20
Suzuka Master
#21
#22
Regional Coordinator (Texas)
iTrader: (38)
it will get stuck again, but as soon as it does, just give it a little push by hand and spray some more wd40 on it. happened to me when i bought the car couple of years ago, never happened after that.
#24
my acura tl has antifreeze coming through ac vents and fogging windows is core
Is this the heater core are something else also car doesn't run hot but its like constant steam on the windows
#25
4th Gear
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Worked like a charm
My '03 CL was doing the same thing. Valve was quite easy to spot. It's the only radiator hose in the vicinity. A few sprays of WD & I was good to go. Started the car up, turned the dial to hot & could hear the shift in airflow.
#26
Awesome! This worked
there are 2 actuators one on either side of the center console under the dash. They are black and look very similar (may even be the same). one may be not working.
Also there is a valve behind the motor in the rad hose. it's pretty evident.. has a cord attached to it. May be seized which is why it's not moving..or could be the motor moving it.
Check those out.
should find the culprit. If it's none of those. then maybe the digital display doesn't work or something?? but i doubt it.
Also there is a valve behind the motor in the rad hose. it's pretty evident.. has a cord attached to it. May be seized which is why it's not moving..or could be the motor moving it.
Check those out.
should find the culprit. If it's none of those. then maybe the digital display doesn't work or something?? but i doubt it.
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