01 Acura CL Type S (NO HEAT) !!!!!

Old 09-16-2010, 06:29 PM
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01 Acura CL Type S (NO HEAT) !!!!!

When i turn on the heat only cold air blows out, the ac mode is off, the termostat should be fine since i'm not overheating, can anybody help me out.

Thanks
Old 09-16-2010, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Aladdin
When i turn on the heat only cold air blows out, the ac mode is off, the termostat should be fine since i'm not overheating, can anybody help me out.

Thanks
mine was doing the same thing, turn it all the way to hot and it might start working. It fixed mine (at least temporary).
Does anyone know how expenissive it is to fix it? sounds like a switch/controller issue, not total breakdown of the heater.
Old 09-16-2010, 08:30 PM
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there are 2 actuators one on either side of the center console under the dash. They are black and look very similar (may even be the same). one may be not working.

Also there is a valve behind the motor in the rad hose. it's pretty evident.. has a cord attached to it. May be seized which is why it's not moving..or could be the motor moving it.

Check those out.

should find the culprit. If it's none of those. then maybe the digital display doesn't work or something?? but i doubt it.
Old 09-17-2010, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by CL-S progression 01
there are 2 actuators one on either side of the center console under the dash. They are black and look very similar (may even be the same). one may be not working.

Also there is a valve behind the motor in the rad hose. it's pretty evident.. has a cord attached to it. May be seized which is why it's not moving..or could be the motor moving it.

Check those out.

should find the culprit. If it's none of those. then maybe the digital display doesn't work or something?? but i doubt it.
thanks ill check out both items and take it from there, i thought it might be the Heater Core, i know it cant be the termostat.

the digital display works fine, nothing wrong with that.
Old 09-17-2010, 09:50 AM
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check the valve right in front of the firewall. thats what it will be, about 90% sure. hvae some one adjust the temperature and see if that cord moves. if not then, spray some wd40 on it and move it with hand and it will start working fine again. prolly just stuck
Old 09-17-2010, 10:08 AM
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mine is pristeen clean so getting seized would be kinda hard. but who knows.

personally. MY GUESS is

DUE TO OUR CARS HAVE ELECTRONIC ACTUATORS for the heat and cool. I would have to say the electronics is what failed...

good new tho is i bet u can find a TON of them anywhere u can find a CL. my guess is if that's the culprit then due to it's rareness you'll have no trouble at all getting a used one.

I'd love to know what the DLR price is lol
Old 09-17-2010, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by nspec_ya4
check the valve right in front of the firewall. thats what it will be, about 90% sure. hvae some one adjust the temperature and see if that cord moves. if not then, spray some wd40 on it and move it with hand and it will start working fine again. prolly just stuck
you got a pic of this valve, cant seem to find it lol
Old 09-17-2010, 11:14 AM
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i just checked under my hood without starting the car this morning, look @ the reservoir box where the coolant, it like basically nothing there.

If the car warm up, the coolant reservoir will fill up correct ?

sorry for asking too many ?, just need to diagnose it
Old 09-17-2010, 03:01 PM
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Check the radiator for coolant as well. You may have air in the system.
Old 09-17-2010, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr
Check the radiator for coolant as well. You may have air in the system.
when i open up my radiator cap, there a bubble forming on top, is that bad or good ?

FYI : I filled up the reservoir and still no heat just blowing air.
Old 09-17-2010, 06:54 PM
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Bubbles??? that's a no no

take the rad cap off when motor is cold. start the motor and let it warm up completely. You will see the fluid beginning to rise and overflow. Tap the gas pedal and more bubbles will usually come out... EVEN little itty bitty bubbles. you want them all out to make sure that's not why you are having issues.

as for the valve is between the REAR of the motor and the FIREWALL. on the passenger side. In plain sight. the valve will have a cord on it also so that's what ur looking for.

It is the rad hose with a valve in the middle of it. The only one of its kinda on a car. that's the valve it could be. or the actuators

keep us posted

Last edited by CL-S progression 01; 09-17-2010 at 06:57 PM.
Old 09-17-2010, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CL-S progression 01
Bubbles??? that's a no no

take the rad cap off when motor is cold. start the motor and let it warm up completely. You will see the fluid beginning to rise and overflow. Tap the gas pedal and more bubbles will usually come out... EVEN little itty bitty bubbles. you want them all out to make sure that's not why you are having issues.

as for the valve is between the REAR of the motor and the FIREWALL. on the passenger side. In plain sight. the valve will have a cord on it also so that's what ur looking for.

It is the rad hose with a valve in the middle of it. The only one of its kinda on a car. that's the valve it could be. or the actuators

keep us posted
Thanks CL ill look into it, let you know progress.
Old 09-17-2010, 08:17 PM
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found valve that moves from the outside the firewall, its all dirty and stuff , should I spray it with wd40?
Old 09-17-2010, 08:59 PM
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Have someone inside the car move the temp knob while you look at the valve from the engine bay. Make sure it operates properly.
Old 09-17-2010, 09:06 PM
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i used liquid wrench on my brother's H22a Prelude to fix his. didn't work until it settled in though for a few days.. i shit u not.

also on the liquid wrench note. spray all of your brake line connections cause they rust out all the time and if u ever need to remove that and it is seized. you're looking at a whole new set of problems.
^(some a 50 year old chineese neighbor of mine does on his old ass POS toyota pickup whatever but some good advice none the less)
Old 09-18-2010, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Aladdin
Thanks CL ill look into it, let you know progress.
Cl thanks for all your help, it was the line that was being sticky, now it free, Heat work beautiful, saved me ton of money .

you guy really came through for me.

Sunny
Old 09-18-2010, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Aladdin
Cl thanks for all your help, it was the line that was being sticky, now it free, Heat work beautiful, saved me ton of money .

you guy really came through for me.

Sunny
the line that is outside firewall that moves the valve? how did you lube it? did you just spray it with wd40, or did you try to move it back and forth with your hands also? I just sprayed the whole thing, not sure if its working... it was intermittently working before
Old 09-18-2010, 05:02 PM
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good job OP

that's what we're all here for. spread the wisdom.
Old 09-20-2010, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by russianDude
the line that is outside firewall that moves the valve? how did you lube it? did you just spray it with wd40, or did you try to move it back and forth with your hands also? I just sprayed the whole thing, not sure if its working... it was intermittently working before
i added WD40 and moved it by hand, now it free been using the heat for 2 day so far.
Old 09-20-2010, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Aladdin
i added WD40 and moved it by hand, now it free been using the heat for 2 day so far.
I could not move the valve with my car shut off. Its too tight and I am afraid to break it
Old 09-29-2010, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by russianDude
I could not move the valve with my car shut off. Its too tight and I am afraid to break it
I started my car, had my bro moved the dial cold to hot serveral time, it was sticky, losen it by hand and it moved, dont worry it wil not break.
Old 09-29-2010, 08:50 PM
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it will get stuck again, but as soon as it does, just give it a little push by hand and spray some more wd40 on it. happened to me when i bought the car couple of years ago, never happened after that.
Old 09-30-2010, 02:34 PM
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I've been having this problem. Noticed that I need to turn it all the way to 90 to get the heat to come on, then I turn it baack up to 80. I thought thats just the way it was, I'll inspect the cable/valve this weekend on my car.
Old 02-25-2015, 02:36 AM
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my acura tl has antifreeze coming through ac vents and fogging windows is core

Is this the heater core are something else also car doesn't run hot but its like constant steam on the windows
Old 10-13-2016, 08:34 AM
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Worked like a charm

My '03 CL was doing the same thing. Valve was quite easy to spot. It's the only radiator hose in the vicinity. A few sprays of WD & I was good to go. Started the car up, turned the dial to hot & could hear the shift in airflow.
Old 09-04-2018, 07:24 PM
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Awesome! This worked

Originally Posted by CL-S progression 01
there are 2 actuators one on either side of the center console under the dash. They are black and look very similar (may even be the same). one may be not working.

Also there is a valve behind the motor in the rad hose. it's pretty evident.. has a cord attached to it. May be seized which is why it's not moving..or could be the motor moving it.

Check those out.

should find the culprit. If it's none of those. then maybe the digital display doesn't work or something?? but i doubt it.
I fiddled with the actuators, in plugged them and plug them back in. Heat works again!
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