zeta

iTrader: (1)

Dam. Been there done that. Those Road Gators can be mean!

Aman

Yeouch that sucks, but I have to toss in the obligatory "It could've been a hell of a lot worse" comment, because it looks like you got pretty damn lucky.

Of course it would've been better if the tire wasn't there to begin with but God just hates you like that

Are you going to PDR the bumper cover?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

PDR? If you mean a repaint, its not on the to-do list right now.

I will get the whole car repainted though, at which point it will get taken care of.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Bumper damage:



The car is filthy. Dont really care at the moment.

Aman

PDR: Paintless Dent Repair, or something.

Nevermind, I thought the damage was a dent to the bumper instead of a scuff, for some reason.

Damage doesn't look bad at all. I wouldn't even bother with it now, just get a new bumper on it when it goes in for a repaint.

Do you know when/what colour you're repainting it?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Same color as it is now, possibly with more flake though. No too much, I dont want it to look glittery.

The picture doesnt really do it justice, the edge is cracked, then its scratched for a few inches then a deep gash.

But yea, its not really a big deal. It will annoy me for sure.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Too big of a gash. You dont really notice it unless you look at it honestly.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

The bumpers are plastic not metal so I dont see PDR being useful. Atleast it wont rust.

e30cabrio

iTrader: (6)

Sux sorry.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

why,... because the vent caps are not flush with the top anymore, all you gotta do is trim the bracing on the underside of the cover to make it fit, nothing really special or even hard to do

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I think he meant since its not metal it wont rust since theres no paint on it.


Im not going to chop up the battery when I plan on getting the correct battery.

Besides, its weight reduction.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

even with the CORRECT battery (interstate btw on mine), it still had to be trimmed some from the underside, and it fits just fine now

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

i thought about calling up comptech and seeing if i could just buy the battery mounting tray for the supercharger, since that would be completely bolt-on

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I thought they used the same tray, the battery was just laid down?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

they use a mt-51r (about 400 CCA's)(out of like the civic and such) battery iirc, where the stock battery is a mt-35 (about 550 CCA's) one
and it is about half the size of the stock one, but then again fewer cranking amps, since it is smaller afterall, but more then enough to start the car as long as it is warmer out (might have a little trouble in colder climates though)

as far as laying it down on it's side, not MANY batteries can actually be laid down and not leak out
and even if it was the factory battery, it still be lower then before, so a better center of gravity afterall (and the best part about there tray, is that they even make the custom battery cables for it

btw the battery tray is in essence tossed out and not reused at all, about the only thing they actually reuse, is one of the j-bolts from the factory battery tiedown



i also have thought about mounting it under the car under the back seat (opposite of the charcol canister), but replacing it would be having a mandatory lift though (unless you could get like 2 people; batteries are not light afterall), and the battery would HAVE to be able to be mounted on it's side

btw interstate batteries are made and engineered by Johnson controls, which also happen to be the makers of the Optima batteries

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I know they use smaller batteries, sealed batteries. I for some reason thought they take the sealed battery and lay it on its side to get clearance for the blower. Maybe thats the 3rd gen then...

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

definetly not, nowhere close to enough room to even think about laying it down (i know on the 3rd gen you actually have to trim the fan shroud to get it even to stuff down there)

and as far as a sealed battery, they actually recommend a Interstate MT-51R (might actually be a non-reversed though ) which is in no way a sealed battery (btw interstates are geneally considered the best battery and last the longest, especially for easily available ones, and ones that are not overpriced either)

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I like my Brailles and Odysseys.

SPoolinspOON

iTrader: (5)

I use to work at a shop that only carried Interstate batteries. I think it's really a hit or miss on them. I'm using a Optima Red top 35 size battey on mine and haven't had any issues and i've had it for over a year. When you do get a new battery, make sure you check the date on when it was manufactured. As long as its a couple months from time made, you should be good. I can't remember how the stamping works on the interstate batteries, but they use some special coding. I would just relocate the battery in the truck so there is less front end weight. I plan on doing that soon on mine.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

ours would occasionally change them out, for fresh ones, if a battery had been sitting there a while (even then many cars take a 35 series battery, so that size did not sit there too long like some other ones did)

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

My battery was from May of this year according to the sticker.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

this was gonna be one of my next mods. Think i will go with the braille carbon fiber version. Just not sure how many cranking amps I need since I have a 300 watt stereo. I was thinking theB106c which is 6.6 lbs and 527 cranking amps at 5 sec. The other is the B14115C which is 11.5 lbs and 904 cranking amps for 5 sec. This should be a big weight loss considering stock battery is heavy as hell. I was also thinking about relocating it to trunk also.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

a stereo should be no issues, especially if the car is running

but the bigger thing though, is what are the Cold Cranking Amps rated at though (since afterall, you do live in a colder climate of chicago)

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I may be able to use a smaller battery but I dont think so. Ill be running two amps, a 600watt sub amp and a 400 watt 4 channel amp, not including my carpc which can survive as low as 6watts during cranking. There is a delay timer built into the power supply for the carpc on the amp turn-on circuit so I may be able to get away with having that on the delay, but we'll see.

Not only that but the underdrive pulley may need to go.

e30cabrio

iTrader: (6)

I was running the same amps and had the AC running all the time, never had an issue.

You can always get an Odyssey alternator.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

stereo should be turning off anyways when cranking (about the only thing that should also be on minus the critical things to run the car, are the running lights and headlights NOTHING else)

AC only takes a couple of amps to run though (clutch wise), and a couple more for the fans and such, so not that bad of a load electrical wise though (but then again a hotter alternator does put out less power though), the MAIN engine power sucker with the AC on, is the compressor itself though, so the alternator does not matter as much as you might think in order to have the AC on


and what might this odyssey alternator be rated at.... (i would think not much more then ours, since ours do have a lot more power draws/creature comforts)

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

The Odyssey alt is actually much stronger then ours.

I forget though - is it the 6MTs that have the lower alternator rating or all Type S'?

Coming up on 9k posts

Aman

Are we going to see a commemorative avatar?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Ill save that for 10k

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

and why do you say that.... just woundering

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Because our alternator is rated at 105amps and the Odyssey alternator is rated at 130?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

so you mean rated higher then lol, not like actually stonger/durable, in that sence

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Correct.

Ours can handle ~ 1450watts while the Odyssey alternator can handle ~ 1800watts. Of course thats not just the stereo, thats the entire car and all its systems that require electricity.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

and what can it put out at idle...


and is't the odyssey rated at a lower rpm redline in the process too, so they are able to actually spin it faster at idle (without the alternator exploding itself at redline) , many other things to think about in the overall process

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

anyways i just looked up on denso's website, the MANUAL CL has the exact same alternator as the base ones, so you don't even get a type-s one at that

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

The tranny mounts are shot, so I tried replacing them tonight. The bolt holding the rear-most tranny mount to the tranny brace snapped. I ordered a new brace tonight. I really hope its something they can have tomorrow but it will probably be Wednesday. I hate owning a car from the North East.

Also, the 3.7 manifold is headed to a new home and I still need to post the Icebox and the 19" RJs in the BM.

NVA-AV6

I'll take the old brace, I am sure I can drill and tap the old bolt out.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Cool, Ill bring it with me next time Im in the area.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I RUN 10s IN THE 1/4!!!






































Ok, I cheated.



Just picked it up tonight. Its a 2008 Triumph Daytona 675 with 4900 miles on it when I bought it, now it has 5034. Its mostly stock. Ive got a few things planned for it but nothing crazy as its going to be my commuter bike while I keep building my other bike.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Thanks. I thought it would be appropriate to post so people know the reason Im not doing much to the car now.