Temp: 77.11 F
Humidity: 61%
Max HP: 247.81
Max TQ: 215.45

 

I assume no spray? My car dyno's a little higher. I was expecting better gains from a 3.5.
These STD or SAE, & what type of dyno?

 

 

looks like pretty similar numbers to what typeR was running on a Mustang Dyno... 255.7/222.5

what sort of dyno were you running on rtatsutani?

 

I noticed you're manual and had half the humidity. Would that make a significant difference?

 

257/231

 

sure the IMRC is working right?

 

I saw the actuator open from the outside. Lemme open up the top of the IM to make sure it's actually flipping open just in case the gears are stripped. Maybe your P&P work made a difference? I was also thinking that the unichip is still not tuned for my slightly different setup. I will be looking into the Apexi Neo unit soon.

Hmm, but your TQ numbers are substantially higher...

What were the temp and humidity numbers the day you dyno'd?

 

hm....I ran a 233whp/209tq on a mustang dyno. those seem kinda low to me.....

 

Lemme try and remove the Uni-chip which was setup for typeR. Run it like that and see how it feels. Maybe my setup is different enough to have it not working just right. Then later I guess I will look into an Apexi Neo. There was a bit of excess smoke coming out of my exhaust indicating a small oil leak somewhere but it wasn't bad enough to warrant a problem since the numbers weren't that bad.

 

wheres the afr?

 

they didn't connect it during the run.

 

then the dyno is kind of useless.

 

well, i have a wideband on my car already so I know how i'm running. Lean on low RPMs, 15 range, and pig rich on WOT, 10. I still gotta disconnect the unichip and see if anything changes then. See if that helps.

 

10 at WOT? theres quite a bit of power to be made by correcting that to 13ish. I don't think that unichip is helping you at all, it was tuned on a different car. I'd remove it and invest in a NEO + Good Tune

If I were you i'd start here:
Uninstall the uni-chip, reset your ecu by unplugging the negative for a good hour or so.. I usually leave mine unplugged overnight.
Drive the car normally for a week or so to let the ecu adjust the AFR.
Install the NEO and make sure you set it up properly before starting the car, hotwire sensors, throttle position, etc.
Get it tuned by a reputable shop, you're going to see some nice gains.

And his IMRC is fine.

 

if that's the case i would focus on fixing lean conditions first. my very first dyno after the 3.5L showed VERY lean and making about 220whp, i spent some time troubleshooting the obvious things and in a matter of a couple weeks in the same conditions and same dyno it went up to 250whp. if you are interested in my aftermarket FPR / Fuel pump let me know, it has all the fittings and hoses ready to bolt in to the factory location. i know the ecu adjusts injector pulse width but i honestly felt like the aftermarket fpr provided a much more constant pressure than the OEM one. my reason for removing it is that i'm going a different route.

 

Thanks but I already have the AEM universal FPR so I should be good on that front. Don't know if my vacuum is working right b/c my range is 38-43ish. What was yours set at? I feel the range of only 5psi is really small? I thought it was supposed to be closer to 10.

I will disconnect my unichip soon and reset my ECU. Then see what happens after that. I'm still on the fence about the NEO since some people are claiming that the ECU automatically adjusts everything back after driving it around for a while. I didn't see anything about long term usage and dyno info.

 

i believe i set the afr to the stock setting which was 40psi at idle and i believe it didn't go up much more than 10psi but i can't remember exactly. it wasn't very high that's for sure.