As I posted in the other thread, my car runs and feels strong but I should be pushing better numbers than 220hp and 203 tq. My mods are Mugen Cooling, Comptech Headers and Icebox (snorkel is missing that runs down to the bottom of the car), Unorthodox Crank Pulley, NRG Dampener and Thermoblock spacers. I have 110k on the OD. Coil packs and plugs have been replaced in the last 20k miles. My catalytic converter I think is shot (rattles) so I'll be gettin a random tech cat to replace it and I'll be getting the snorkel for my Icebox as I may not be getting the air I should be. I also want to get a Neo and tune it, what a/f ratio should I be at? Any other suggestions?

 

Hell yea, your car should be putting down way more power than my boys if you have all those mods. Did you notice a difference wit the NRG Dampener? someone told me about it last year but I never got around to getting one but might get one this week if you advise. But like I said before you should be betweeen 13 and 14 constant on WOT. Thats actually a good standard for N/A running cars.

 

NRG dampener is nice. I only have the one on the front, haven't replaced the rear one yet. It's reduced wheel hop greatly although I still get it depending on how I launch, but it's a good mod in my opinion.
Once I get the Neo, I'll change it to 13-14 for WOT.

 

You dyno'd in 4th gear? Also to compare you need to do either SAE corrected or STD corrected.
Also was there a big fan pushing air into the front of the car to simulate at speed driving?
You sure your IMRC is working?
What type of dyno was this?

 

There were 3 fans, one directly in front and 2 on either side angled towards the car. It was a dyno jet. Not sure about my IMRC, like I said my car feels strong and has been running good for the most part. How do I correct the numbers (SAE/STD). I'm pretty sure the pulls were done in 3rd gear but I'll double check w/ the guy. I was recording it and was kind of geeked since that was my first time at a dyno and forgot to ask what gear he was in afterwards, I know that's the most important question but what can i say

 

im pretty sure its your A/F thats messing up your numbers. The car may feel like its running strong to you because its running faster than it was when it was stock when in reality the A/F is messing it up so if you fixed the A/F and compare how it runs then to how its running now your gonna thing... HMMMM. You really feel the difference in how a car runs when its tuned strong from when it just feels strong. lol

 

I hear ya , I should be getting the Neo in the next few weeks, will tune it and see how that works. Thanks for the input!

 

Well 6 speed dyno's must be done in 4th gear. 3rd gear will yield low numbers. So if it was 3rd gear you need to get it redone in 4th.

 

are you serious??? I dont know what gear they dynoed my boys but imma tell him to find out.

 

Yeah check out your IMRC on my dynos the IMRC jump is more prominent and consistent.
The torque increases and stays that way for a while into VTEC, yours seems to go down and perk back up a little and then start to drop. Althugh when my IMRC wasn't working the torque drop and high end catch up was more prevelent.

Your AFR seems about right, not much to be gained in low end, some in midrange maybe like ~5hp and your VTEC powerband does need to be leaned out, its dipping to 12.0 Your probably good for another 10-15hp here, just from getting the AFR from 12.0 to something close to 13.5.

Im not too much of a fan of the mugen cooling mods on an NA car like ours, didn't have the best results with it on my J30A1. SCed its a good idea but a little much for NA j32s.

Cliff notes:
-Your torque past 4K rpms is low should be higher
-Torque drops down to almost 150wtq, need better high end breathability. If you think its your cat then thats your culprit, exhaust restriction.

 

Get that snorkel, a new cat and re-dyno. Your IMRC is working as it should.

 

dont worry bro, my car dynoed at rediculous #s too. Oh, Gary, I need to give you the sheets to post, their still at Louie's

 

Just out of curiosity, what is the difference for n/a cars and f/i cars? Is the perfect a/f ratio different for f/i cars?

 

Yeah SCed or just FI in general depending on how hardcore we're talking about usually runs around 12 flat to mid 12's give or take on driving conditions and how the car runs. Thats been my general experience with the J32 running around 4-5psi. They tend to run richer to ere on the rich side of things as to potentially prevent any possible pinging/knocking, its just a larger buffer zone pretty much.

Ideally you'll want to balance the Air Fuel Ratio and Ignition TIming as to not overdo one area.

 

so to keep an idiot kid from blowing up his motor, a shop may tune it a bit rich for him, but ultimately, you'd want it leaner than that buffered tune for best performance right?

 

It's not just for idiot kids. The driver has pretty little influence on the conditions that will cause detonation. The only people that would tune a boosted car up near stoichiometric would be drag racers who fully understand that they are running a serious risk of blowing up the motor. They take that risk for the fractions of a second that might mean winning or losing.

CL-Future, I would suspect that if anything, the messed up cat is stealing power. They tend to do the most damage at the higher RPMs though your graph shows a pretty linear rise to the top end so who knows.

 

what type of datalogging systems are available for the acura?