Who's replaced their IAC valve?
10-24-2005, 02:41 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Who's replaced their IAC valve?
if you've had the idle air control valve replaced, then i need to talk to you. i tried different searches and none of them worked, so here goes.
did you install this: 1.)on your own; or 2.)by the dealer. i don't think the installation would be all that bad. my car needs to have it replaced, but then the cheap warranty i bought for my CL won't cover the expenses.
but the agent at the stealership said that this part cannot just be bolted on and expected to run fine. he said they need to have it tested by some apparatus and that that is the only form of making this run properly and to reset the ECU. ha BS on the latter part. let me know your experiences.
did you install this: 1.)on your own; or 2.)by the dealer. i don't think the installation would be all that bad. my car needs to have it replaced, but then the cheap warranty i bought for my CL won't cover the expenses.
but the agent at the stealership said that this part cannot just be bolted on and expected to run fine. he said they need to have it tested by some apparatus and that that is the only form of making this run properly and to reset the ECU. ha BS on the latter part. let me know your experiences.
10-24-2005, 04:25 PM
#3
Three Wheelin'
Iac
It is located under the throttle body and is part of the air intake system. When it goes bad your idle will go up and down repeatedly. A scan tool might say TBS, or throttle position sensor but it is the IAC as one affects the other. It is a simple repair, and the check engine light will clear itself.
10-24-2005, 05:49 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
yes chuck. i know what it is and what it does. my question was how members got there's repaired or replaced being that the part is somewhat faulty. i've heard many a forum member saying that they have replaced it but i was wondering what tests the dealer performed after swapping it. if anyone has successfully done this on their own, i want to see what is needed for it to function properly post installation.
10-24-2005, 07:11 PM
#5
Three Wheelin'
I'm not sure what you mean....my test is that when the part goes bad (not faulty) and is replaced the car should run fine again. The "test" you mention sounds like dealer BS to me. I don't worry about fault and warrantees too much, I just fix it and go on. It didn't even cost $100 if I remember right.
10-24-2005, 07:20 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
so your saying that you had this problem, replaced the valve and it was solved?
that is what i was wondering. i agree that the "test" they claimed to be needed after installing the new valve is bs but i just wanted to make sure before i went out to get the part and installing it myself. so did you do the ecu reset after? anything else please let me know bro.
that is what i was wondering. i agree that the "test" they claimed to be needed after installing the new valve is bs but i just wanted to make sure before i went out to get the part and installing it myself. so did you do the ecu reset after? anything else please let me know bro.
10-24-2005, 07:30 PM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Yes the idle kept going up and down over and over. Wouldn't stop. IAC valve fixed it. Code will clear itself once it no longer "sees" a problem. I might have cleared it myself with my scan tool but I think it was gone as soon as I started the car. Most check engine lights BTW are emissions oriented, not engine oriented so to speak. You'll get a check engine light when emission parameters are exceded for whatever reason.
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10-24-2005, 09:27 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
right on man. yeah, in this case i'll definitely buy and install it myself as you did. hopefully it'll be the cure. IAC valve runs about 115 at the dealer. will see about price in stores. appreciate it greatly and thanks. 
11-07-2005, 07:35 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
btw everyone. the idle air control valve (IACV) can be replaced and able to run perfectly as long as you allow the ECU to reset. i've replaced it and have had no problems at all. it's known to be somewhat faulty so this is just a heads-up. mmkayyyyyyyy.
11-08-2005, 07:18 AM
#12
I replaced mine on the old car. Had some idle problems. Dealer wouldn't replace it cause no check engine light or codes were there.
It's bolted on the Throttle body on the bottom. You have to take off the TB which is not hard at all to do. Then unbolt it, put a new gasket on(it comes with it) then reinstall. Do the idle relearn procedure & your done.
My idle probelms went away.
It's bolted on the Throttle body on the bottom. You have to take off the TB which is not hard at all to do. Then unbolt it, put a new gasket on(it comes with it) then reinstall. Do the idle relearn procedure & your done.
My idle probelms went away.
01-29-2006, 09:27 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by TGS
I think I have this problem. How much did it cost you? Is this a dealer part or can I get it from auto zone?
it's also an easy install. just don't forget to do the ECU reset.
01-30-2006, 08:14 AM
#17
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I replaced mine when I swapped out my throttle body with a TypeS one (the IAC on the TypeS TB was bad). Took no time at all and haven't had a problem since.
Just an FYI, search the 2nd gen TL board for instructions on how to clean the IAC. It's worth a shot before you buy a new one.
Just an FYI, search the 2nd gen TL board for instructions on how to clean the IAC. It's worth a shot before you buy a new one.
01-30-2006, 09:07 PM
#18
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IAC, TB causing Check Engine + VSA + !?
i read in a couple threads that mentioned CEL + VSA + !. but never got a conclusion of what solved the problem.
a few days ago, my CEL light comes on, then my VSA + !. the car then stalls at the light.
Parked it for a few minutes and started it back up. It was just the CEL now. i drove it a few blocks back to the garage, and parked it there waiting for monday to take it to the dealer. a few friends said it was Fuel injection..?
As i drove it in the morning down to the dealership, the car was very jerky during shifits and would not shift to 4th even at 4500 rpm. i even tried manual shift, but it woudln't move. so i drove it at 30mph all the way to the dealer.
i was pretty convinced that it was the tranny, but the guys at the dealer called me back just now. they said that the codes they pulled up was the 1022 code (i think..i saw it in the other threads) referring to a bad or faulty TB. and that my battery cables were corroded. They wouldn't be able to figure out if its the tranny until they fix these two problems.
estimated at close to 900 for both fixes!!
any comments on whether the problem i felt this morning was due to a faulty TB? or is it a bad IAC? i know its not the battery cable. thanks!
a few days ago, my CEL light comes on, then my VSA + !. the car then stalls at the light.
Parked it for a few minutes and started it back up. It was just the CEL now. i drove it a few blocks back to the garage, and parked it there waiting for monday to take it to the dealer. a few friends said it was Fuel injection..?
As i drove it in the morning down to the dealership, the car was very jerky during shifits and would not shift to 4th even at 4500 rpm. i even tried manual shift, but it woudln't move. so i drove it at 30mph all the way to the dealer.
i was pretty convinced that it was the tranny, but the guys at the dealer called me back just now. they said that the codes they pulled up was the 1022 code (i think..i saw it in the other threads) referring to a bad or faulty TB. and that my battery cables were corroded. They wouldn't be able to figure out if its the tranny until they fix these two problems.
estimated at close to 900 for both fixes!!
any comments on whether the problem i felt this morning was due to a faulty TB? or is it a bad IAC? i know its not the battery cable. thanks!
01-31-2006, 10:42 AM
#23
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by CleanCL
almost anything relating to the throttle body can be replaced yourself, you can order all the parts yourself. tell them you'll get it fixed yourself.
06-18-2006, 02:31 AM
#26
MP90 uninstalled
did it right after I posted and got it thanks. it is 16022-P8A-A02 VALVE SET for $100.45 if anyone needs it.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
12-28-2006, 08:57 AM
#27
Moderator Alumnus
crap, I've been wondering why my RPMs bounced up and down during cold start a couple of times. There's been a few instances where my engine cranked over but nothing happened it just died. I cranked it again and the f'er started right up no problem. No codes have been thrown. After reading up on the IAC, it probably needs to be cleaned or replaced. :ghey:
12-28-2006, 09:52 AM
#28
Senior Moderator
Yeah, try cleaning it... NSXNEXT says there's a cleaning DIY in the 2GTL forum, but I haven't found it yet. I need to find it and add it to our info thread.
12-28-2006, 01:14 PM
#29
Originally Posted by GreenMachine
crap, I've been wondering why my RPMs bounced up and down during cold start a couple of times. There's been a few instances where my engine cranked over but nothing happened it just died. I cranked it again and the f'er started right up no problem. No codes have been thrown. After reading up on the IAC, it probably needs to be cleaned or replaced. :ghey:
01-03-2007, 11:48 AM
#30
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include gasket?
Originally Posted by jproy
did it right after I posted and got it thanks. it is 16022-P8A-A02 VALVE SET for $100.45 if anyone needs it.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
did the valve set come with the gasket or do i need to order it separately? thanks.
01-03-2007, 11:59 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by gr4mm4t0n
did the valve set come with the gasket or do i need to order it separately? thanks.
01-03-2007, 06:21 PM
#32
Three Wheelin'
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So does this problem of rough idle consist of your car feeling like its going to stall, then rev, stall , than rev? Mine does it only for 5-10 minutes at first start up, but the weird thing is, my RPM needle never moves up or down hardly while this is happening........is this what you guys are talking about?
02-01-2007, 08:59 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by TOPHER33884
So does this problem of rough idle consist of your car feeling like its going to stall, then rev, stall , than rev? Mine does it only for 5-10 minutes at first start up, but the weird thing is, my RPM needle never moves up or down hardly while this is happening........is this what you guys are talking about?
The IAC might be your problem. I replaced my IAC when the idle revs in neutral bounced between 800-1500 (needle moves a lot) and the car alnost stalled when idling in D (VSA and ! light come on). The IAC definetely fixes this, the good thing is it's quick and cheap to fix.
I remember someone way back had full instructions on the first gen forums to replace it if u wanna do it
02-01-2007, 10:19 PM
#34
says "hello to my TLX".
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by psycho19
Topher,
The IAC might be your problem. I replaced my IAC when the idle revs in neutral bounced between 800-1500 (needle moves a lot) and the car alnost stalled when idling in D (VSA and ! light come on). The IAC definetely fixes this, the good thing is it's quick and cheap to fix.
I remember someone way back had full instructions on the first gen forums to replace it if u wanna do it
The IAC might be your problem. I replaced my IAC when the idle revs in neutral bounced between 800-1500 (needle moves a lot) and the car alnost stalled when idling in D (VSA and ! light come on). The IAC definetely fixes this, the good thing is it's quick and cheap to fix.
I remember someone way back had full instructions on the first gen forums to replace it if u wanna do it
02-02-2007, 07:51 AM
#35
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by TOPHER33884
So does this problem of rough idle consist of your car feeling like its going to stall, then rev, stall , than rev? Mine does it only for 5-10 minutes at first start up, but the weird thing is, my RPM needle never moves up or down hardly while this is happening........is this what you guys are talking about?
My car did this last monday.... rev up and down when ever it's at idle till it warmed up (5-10 minutes). So I gave it an Italian Tuneup and it's been fine since...
02-02-2007, 07:04 PM
#36
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when you need to replace your IACV, i suggest you get one of these:
search for "64723" at homedepot.com
you don't have to take the throttle body off or any of the intake. replacing the IACV took me 20minutes with this little ratchet/socket set.
search for "64723" at homedepot.com
you don't have to take the throttle body off or any of the intake. replacing the IACV took me 20minutes with this little ratchet/socket set.
02-06-2007, 01:09 PM
#37
Three Wheelin'
It is easy to do just disconect the electrical harnesses, take off the throttle cables, take the coolant line out of the IACV (DONT do it with the engine hot) Take the vacuum lines ooff the throttle body (always label things) take the 4 bolt/nuts off the throttle body. you may need to replace the gasket if it sticks and tears, then its just 2 phillips screws holding the IACV valve on the throttle. I changed mine but my problem turned out to be something else. I had a vacuum leak on the FIA valve hose ends after I did some mods on the block up parts, fixed it with a thicker O ring LOL.
My symtoms were idle at 1000 rpms and then up and down between
My symtoms were idle at 1000 rpms and then up and down between
02-06-2007, 01:11 PM
#38
Three Wheelin'
You can use that wrench but there is no garuntee you line up the rubber gasket correctly. My IACV is upside down because of teh supercharger but yours may be easy to change with that wrench,
02-06-2007, 05:38 PM
#39
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by NighthawkBlack
It is easy to do just disconect the electrical harnesses, take off the throttle cables, take the coolant line out of the IACV (DONT do it with the engine hot) Take the vacuum lines ooff the throttle body (always label things) take the 4 bolt/nuts off the throttle body. you may need to replace the gasket if it sticks and tears, then its just 2 phillips screws holding the IACV valve on the throttle. I changed mine but my problem turned out to be something else. I had a vacuum leak on the FIA valve hose ends after I did some mods on the block up parts, fixed it with a thicker O ring LOL.
My symtoms were idle at 1000 rpms and then up and down between
My symtoms were idle at 1000 rpms and then up and down between
Otherwise i would use something like the tool above to remove it
02-07-2007, 11:13 AM
#40
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by NighthawkBlack
My symtoms were idle at 1000 rpms and then up and down between
