what you guys think of these rotors...
#1
what you guys think of these rotors...
i need to replace my rotors badly. came across this on ebay. need some advice and suggestions where to find cheap decent FRONT rotors. if i replace the front, should might as well replace the back also?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACURA...83408545QQrdZ1
thanks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACURA...83408545QQrdZ1
thanks
#3
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Originally Posted by jzhu625
some advice and suggestions where to find cheap decent FRONT rotors. if i replace the front, should might as well replace the back also?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACURA...83408545QQrdZ1
thanks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACURA...83408545QQrdZ1
thanks
This word shouldn't be associated with brakes. As previously noted, you get what you pay for, especially on Ebay.
And just b/c you're replacing the front, doesn't mean the back ones need to be replaced. Performance wise, , but if you have aftermarket wheels and a drop, you might want to consider the back as well.
#6
09 TL SH-AWD
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Corrosion
You get what you pay for when using eBay.
but remember one thing! you absolutely MUST properly break in the new rotors and pads and then go easy on them for about a week. the instructions are usually mentioned on the box from the brake pads.
the only thing I woud've done differently is order blanks without holes or slots. it's all hype anyway and just for looks mostly.
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#8
I Wanna Beer
The two things you should never skimp on is tires and brakes. They're the most important factor to your safety. Cut corners on engine parts if you want as it won't likely endanger your life. When you get into the cheaper rotors you'll find that they have less cooling fins to vent. This means they'll warp much quicker. There's a place around here called Discount Braking and Cooling (or something like that) and they carry rotors for almost any car for around $18 each (sometimes less). I wouldn't dare put those things on a car but I have friends that have. They also have to buy new rotors three times as often as I do (and in the past I've run Performance Friction Black pads which love to eat rotors at the track). Brake components are worth the money and frequently overlooked.
#10
i've changed my front rotors once at a shop already, the shop told me for 2nd Gen TL and CL Rotors were badly made.
reason i need to change rotors badly cause last night i was racing a new BMW 330 with LED tail-lights, so i believe is 2006, up to the point that i was breaking hard around 120MPH, afterward i realized even when i got off the highway, whenever i break my car was shaking like a bi*tch.
reason i need to change rotors badly cause last night i was racing a new BMW 330 with LED tail-lights, so i believe is 2006, up to the point that i was breaking hard around 120MPH, afterward i realized even when i got off the highway, whenever i break my car was shaking like a bi*tch.
#11
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Originally Posted by jzhu625
i've changed my front rotors once at a shop already, the shop told me for 2nd Gen TL and CL Rotors were badly made.
reason i need to change rotors badly cause last night i was racing a new BMW 330 with LED tail-lights, so i believe is 2006, up to the point that i was breaking hard around 120MPH, afterward i realized even when i got off the highway, whenever i break my car was shaking like a bi*tch.
reason i need to change rotors badly cause last night i was racing a new BMW 330 with LED tail-lights, so i believe is 2006, up to the point that i was breaking hard around 120MPH, afterward i realized even when i got off the highway, whenever i break my car was shaking like a bi*tch.
#12
I Wanna Beer
Watch out for those new 335i's, they'll hand you your ass (just wait til they start chipping them too). I use to drive an SHO and they suffer from rotor warping too. Their problem is that the brakes are too small for the car (Ford admitted at one point that they "had put 100MPH brakes on a 140MPH car"). I use to have to change rotors every 3 months. Learn to do it yourself and you'll save a lot of cash, especially with cars like these. Does swapping to LS calipers help with the warping issue?
#14
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by belcom
the only thing I woud've done differently is order blanks without holes or slots. it's all hype anyway and just for looks mostly.
#15
09 TL SH-AWD
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Excelerate
No that is not true. The slotting of the disc allows for better heat dissipation and therefore a reduced chance of warpage and better stopping distance. The slots also cut into the pad preventing it from glazing. It is NOT hype.
Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.
Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value.
http://www.wilwood.com/Centers/Infor....asp#question7
Wilwood have been in the business of developing and manufacturing high performance braking systems for 30 years. I think they know better.
heat dissipation will not be better with slots or holes unless you force air onto the rotor directly or simply have a bigger rotor with larger mass (hence BBK)
the only people who tend to mislead those who don't know are the ones trying to sell and it's all marketing.
#16
Moderator Alumnus
Originally Posted by Lord Helmet
Yep. Acura put shitty brakes on the CL = rotor warpage. VERY common around here.
How ghey is that?!
#18
I Wanna Beer
Originally Posted by Excelerate
No that is not true. The slotting of the disc allows for better heat dissipation and therefore a reduced chance of warpage and better stopping distance. The slots also cut into the pad preventing it from glazing. It is NOT hype.
#19
Originally Posted by jzhu625
i need to replace my rotors badly. came across this on ebay. need some advice and suggestions where to find cheap decent FRONT rotors. if i replace the front, should might as well replace the back also?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACURA...83408545QQrdZ1
thanks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACURA...83408545QQrdZ1
thanks
#20
I had a 95 Integra GSR that would warp the front rotors constantly. I'd turn them and they would warp again within a couple months. I drove 60K miles with that problem. After the 3rd time I bought some Powerslot rotors and installed them. No more warping. My girlfriend was having the same warpage problem on her 2000 Solara. I put some Powerslot rotors on the front and it's been fine since.
#21
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Originally Posted by belcom
did a lot of research and read tons of different articles. sure it looks nice, but there is not much performance benefit to having drilled or slotted rotors. Here's an example from Wilwood...
Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.
Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value.
http://www.wilwood.com/Centers/Infor....asp#question7
Wilwood have been in the business of developing and manufacturing high performance braking systems for 30 years. I think they know better.
heat dissipation will not be better with slots or holes unless you force air onto the rotor directly or simply have a bigger rotor with larger mass (hence BBK)
the only people who tend to mislead those who don't know are the ones trying to sell and it's all marketing.
Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.
Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value.
http://www.wilwood.com/Centers/Infor....asp#question7
Wilwood have been in the business of developing and manufacturing high performance braking systems for 30 years. I think they know better.
heat dissipation will not be better with slots or holes unless you force air onto the rotor directly or simply have a bigger rotor with larger mass (hence BBK)
the only people who tend to mislead those who don't know are the ones trying to sell and it's all marketing.
Which is better, slotted or drilled rotors?
StopTech provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.
They are not for aesthetic value. The slots are functional. The slotting cuts into the pad preventing it from glazing and it allows for better heat dissipation. Yes is an enlarged rotor with more surface area and curved vanes the better choice? Absolutely. But not everyone can afford those. And I can tell you from experience that the ROTORA slotted rotors and Axxis Ultimate pads improved the braking ability of my CL-S significantly. It is the combination of slotted rotors and better pads that helped out.
Also, Brembo has been in business for many decades and they manufacture slotted or drilled OEM replacement discs. I would think that they weren't "misleading" the public. It's not just marketing.
#22
2014 TL SH-AWD Advance
CAT FIGHT!!! Ok, if this guy isn't using his car for racing or track application... or not trying 120 to 0 stops then my guess is that he's not going to notice a difference in slotted/drilled vs standard rotors. Look, I've got a spoiler on the back of my car but it's not because I don't want the ass end to jump around on me at 150 mph. slotted/drilled rotors have become popular on the street car for one reason, looks...period! Granted, some people take their street cars to the track, and it will benefit them there, but 90% of the people who buy slotted/drilled rotors for their CL/TL, never track their car. It's the same reason you see Celicas, Civics, etc... with huge wings on the back.
#23
Originally Posted by 03sixer
CAT FIGHT!!! Ok, if this guy isn't using his car for racing or track application... or not trying 120 to 0 stops then my guess is that he's not going to notice a difference in slotted/drilled vs standard rotors. Look, I've got a spoiler on the back of my car but it's not because I don't want the ass end to jump around on me at 150 mph. slotted/drilled rotors have become popular on the street car for one reason, looks...period! Granted, some people take their street cars to the track, and it will benefit them there, but 90% of the people who buy slotted/drilled rotors for their CL/TL, never track their car. It's the same reason you see Celicas, Civics, etc... with huge wings on the back.
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