Hey guys i got a 03 CL-S 6MT , it has 98k on it, the valves are ticking car sounds like a diesel, do any other members have this problem also i got a warranty till 100k you think theyll fix that?

 

youre valves are ticking or is it your purge solenoid valve? up on your firewall

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...purge+solenoid

 

From the Acura Recommended Maintenance Schedule:

http://john-perry.com/acurazine/docu...aintenance.pdf

Sounds like your due for the 105K maintenance.... Valve adjustment, timing belt, etc...

 

My advice is to do your timing belt before you go over 100K. If your water pump is leaking, it will be covered under warranty. They can do the timing belt while they're in there and it'll save you some money. They will just charge you the difference in time and parts above and beyond the water pump replacement.

Plus - if they find anything else wrong at that time, at least you'll be covered.

 

i've got just under 78k miles on mine and last time i took it to acura (trying to get parts) the guy told me that it sounded "tappy" and i might want to get my valves adjusted. I'm thinking about taking it in, and probably will just do that, timing belt, UR Pullies, etc while they're at it

 

Is your Check Engine Light on?

Hey I've got the exact same thing going on with my 2003 MT CL-s. I just crossed 80k. My car sounds like a Mack truck at times but then it becomes normal all of a sudden??? It has been running rough more often though and my gas mileage is horrible! I too have been told to have the valves adjusted.

 

My Check Engine light's never been on since i bought it last yr. The only two lights i've seen lit is the Maint. Req'd light (reset myself) and the brake light (added brake fluid). looks like i'll be makin an appt, hopefully it won't cost too much

 

I got 62k miles on my cl-s and the valves are definitely ticking. The last time I took it to the dealer, they said it was normal. I do not think it is normal for a car with 60k miles to sound like that, but I have heard worse.

I might look into getting it done by a mechanic if it isn't too pricey.

 

$450 bucks to get the valves adjusted. Got mine done at 45k miles and it ran very smoothly afterwards. It's not covered under warranty and is considered a maintenance item.

 

I spoke to the Service Manager at Woodbine Acura in Toronto and they said that they will do it under warranty after 100k (62.5k miles).

He said if the sound is VERY loud and it seems as something is wrong then they can have a look at it, otherwise just wait and bring it in at 98k.

 

I've got a check engine light recently (code P0171) and my car ticks like theres no tomorrow adjusting the valves could solve this...i think....

 

Our cars aren't supposed to tick. Anybody who says its normal are f'ing liars. Our engines are supposed to purr like a cat even with high mileage, just as long as you keep you car tuned to its specs.

 

According to the http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...gen-sensor.php ,
P0171 means bank 1 is running too lean and this in turn could be detonation (knocking). That is not good at all, you should take care of that sooner than later. Valve adjustment is not the solution, read the link. Good luck.

 

Bent Valves? Have you ever overreved the motor on a downshift?

 

never overreved and just reset the ECU and the check light hasnt come on yet....

 

and my motor is not knocking its ticking....MAP sensor dirty?

 

update.....I check my map sensor.....seems to be clean but I cleaned it anyways...my check engine light came up again and I talk to my guy at my local shop who installed my S/C he said too my valves needs to adjusted. anyone with the Helms manual could help me find this (P0171 code) diagnostic procedure? I'm so upset as of now.....my car runs fine and last week I dynojet at 297.9hp and 241.3tq with the weather 80 degrees......fuel pressure low? I don't have the fuel gauge installed yet but what are the fuel pressure specs w/ standard S/C pulley? this is driving me nuts.....

 

yea my car sounds like that to, gets faster when i gas it to. I was gonna get a valve adjustment also but dam 450??? might as well wait and get the timing belt and other stuff and do it all at once

 

I asked, and my local Acura dealership quoted me $300 to adjust the valves. Still haven't done it.

 

Im pretty pissed that this isn't covered under warranty because i just got my cls about 2 months ago and it ticks like crazy. was supposed to be certified. well f*ck certified because my AC filters weren't changed, e=brake comes all the way up, and the ticking is going to drive me nuts. Isn't there something i can do about this????

 

call the 1-800 number

 

I just got mine and i can tell the a/c filters werent changed either.

whats this 800 numba for? maybe you can clue me in on my acura bill of rights?

I was supposed to get roadside assistance, all this crazy stuff since i bought certified pre-owned. well, thats what the sticker says anyways.

How can i find out if the dealer actually gave me the warranties that they promise, its a little to late to be inquiring about this now i guess.

 

Whats this 800 number???? Found a customer service 800 number on acura.

For further assistance, feel free to contact Acura Client Services. You can get in touch with us several ways:

Monday through Friday, 6:00 AM to 5:00 PM Pacific Standard time at the toll-free number (800) 382-2238

This what you guys were talking about??

 

I am slowly gathering from this thread that the vtec's don't have hydraulic valves. Is this really true? I have lifter noise at 34k and it occurs only when hot and near idle. Usually lifter noise, if the CL's have solid lifters, should get quieter when hot as the tolerances shrink. It makes better sense to me if the lifters were hydraulic and the bloody 0W20 oil pressure drops when hot, that tapping would result when hot. I'd like to know what the dealer actually adjusts.

What type of modern car does not have hydraulic lifters anymore? Porsche even has gone hydraulic. Is there really a lifter adjustment spec for our vehicles? I'd like to see what they adjust.

 

They are hydraulic... and even hydraulics need to be adjusted from time to time... A hydraulic lifter will take up slack, but there's a physical limitation to the extent of that "slack".

Heck, even on my old aircooled vw motor (with hydraulics, and it's an antiquated design) the lifters need to be re-adjusted after the 1200 mile breakin on the motor...

for acura valve adjustment for more info like this:

http://www.artsautomotive.com/HondaV...Adjustment.htm

 

Before we start mass hysteria on the subject. I think Green Monster's link is excellent. But if you read it carefully it says""the J32A1, J32A2, and J35A4 V6 engines that are found in the Acura CL, TL, and MDX as well as the Honda Accord V6, and Odyssey. This new V6 engine had a "screw and jamb nut" style adjustable valve clearance."" That means no hydraulic tappets on the CL. As for aircooled Porsche and VW engines the same is true. I'd like to know what aircooled VW (and that would be Beetle or Ghia or Bus) had hydraulic lifters? Yesterday I talked to an Acura tech and he said no hydraulics tappets as well. And like I said in my original post, in a lifter design, when oil gets hot or on startup when the pressure is low, the lifters could collapse somewhat and cause tapping. The only thing that is hydraulic in the valve system on the CL may be the key actuator on the cam follower. Hence my confusion. To make noise only hot when the parts have expanded in a solid rocker configuration just doesn't make sense. They usually make noise all the time in my experience. I still wonder if increasing the viscosity of the oil will quiet the rockers?? I think someone mentioned that here before.

 

On the vw buses, 2.0L engines after 1977 had hydraulic lifters... (1978-1982).

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/HydraulicLifters.html

On the J32 engines, you're right, they don't have lifters, but from the factory brochure, they have a "Hydraulic actuation system" that engages vtec... what ever that means

Section 6 in the helms manual covers all the valve related stuff (adjustments, etc).

Edit: so since we ruled out the hydraulic component of the valvetrain, it seems that only a valve adjustment is going to quiet the ticking. Changing oil isn't going to resolve the issue.

 

We don't have lifters??? I had/have a ticking. I got my valves adjusted, timing belt replaced, purge valve solenoid replaced, and supercharger belt replaced. Most of the ticking is gone but it happens every so often and i thought that maybe it could be the lifter but if we don't have any then ????

My car cranks weird at the moment. It will begin to crank with it's normal pulses but at some point it sounds like it misses a piece or spark during the cranking and then becomes normal then starts. I don't think that it is the starter because the car is still relatively new. So maybe it could be the coil packs or the spark plugs or the injectors. That seems to maybe make sense because the ticking sounds like a spark trying to happen and now the starting/cranking of the car isn't healthy.
What do you guys think??

 

lifters are used in push rod engines only. the ticking you are hearing may be due toa gap btween the valve stem and rocker arm

 

I called to make an appointment to get some work done on my car. When i told the service guy it was ticking and needed a valve adjustment. The guy said that these cars don't get valve adjustments and that the ticking is probably from the fuel injectors?? How should i argue this??

 

No, these motors do not have "hydraulic lifters". I put together a few close up pics of how the VTEC works on our car. We do have the jam nut to lock the adjustment in place once the clearance is set.


Pic 1 below is the intake rockers. The left and right rockers are the primary and the middle is the VTEC lobe, higher lift. The left and right rockers are always moving in tandum until VTEC is activated. Oil is fed through the rocker shaft through a hole into the rocker on the left. When the ecu tells the VTEC solenoid to activate then a higher amount of oil pressure charges this shaft and pushes the piston built into the left rocker (you can see it) to move or be pushed into the middle rocker. The piston in the middle rocker (which I took out so you can see) is pushed into the rocker on the right and then they are all (locked together) moving in tandum with the middle rocker riding on the higher lift lobe, thus moving the rockers on the higher performance cam lobe giving you that VTEC euphoria, like sniffing glue without the headache. I think that's how it works.




Pic#2

Another view.






Pic#3




Pic#4

I have laid out the rockers next to the cam to show how it looks. Remember, the middle lobe on the intake side is the VTEC lobe and isn't used till the ecu says so. The middle rocker just sits there. The rockers on the north side of the pic are for the exhaust.







Pic5

This is roughly what it looks like with the jam nuts and where it rests on the valves/springs.

 

Since doing my 6 speed conversion i have noticed that the type-s motor i now have tends to tick as well. It seem worse if run for a bit shut off and restarted a few min later. Its kinda annoying and i would like to look into this myself and see whats causing it too.

 

i have the same problem, but it seems that i am getting that ticking and sort of boiling sound from the back cylinders, and it happens when the car is going down from about 2k to 1k rpm. the sound is pretty nasty too.

 

I got quoted 800 for the valve adjustment in N.J. anyone hear of a cheaper deal in ny or nj?

 

I have a loud ticking on my 6speed as well... i have 38K on the car. Should Acura check this out under warranty, or fix whatever problem it is?

 

i start my car and even on the cold days it is whisper quiet just like my V6 accord was......if you are constantly in the upper RPM ranges on a daily basis you can be sure that you valves will require attention long before those of a person who drives their car in a conservative mannor.

 

I had my valves adjusted under warrenty cause it was loud. I have to complain about 10 times though. The techs kept saying that it was normal noises, but I have co workers with TL-S and a CL6 and their engines are much quieter. After the adjustment, it was still loud so I'm just giving up on that fact and hope future Acura's don't sound like crap after a few thousand miles. My roommates 05 TL6 is fairly quiet, so maybe they did something different. The only thing that didnt' make me feel too bad, was my friend got an M3 and its engine is more clatterly than mine!

My 2 pennies

 

I realize that I am bringing a thread from the dead back, but the idiot at Acura actually had the nerve to tell me that "you can't adjust the valves on those cars"!!! You believe this shit? This was the service manager that told me this...

Yeah, here's my keys... Make sure you hit a brick wall well test driving please...

 

A pair of mechanics stethoscopes should help pinpoint from where any ticking is coming, and maybe even convince a service writer that it's not injectors.