dfreder371

Moderator: Please consider posting this as a "sticky" for at least a few days. Request holding it until at least Monday. Some people, it seems, only update themselves on the weekends.

First, view these sites, look at the pictures, and above all, read the entire article at the first site posted. Pay particular attention to the table embedded regarding corrosion resistance of this new coating. Visit the second site, then read the rest of this post.

First site: read and gawk at the pictures. First link below the magazine cover.
Second site: gawk at the pictures. Realize that at least the second coat (the metalization process) envelopes the entire rim not just the face. This is evident from pictures on the second site.

1: www.pcoating.com
2. www.goodrichtechnology.com

Impressed? Good!

I spoke with Gary Goodrich, CEO, three times today. I expected to be "blown off", as he is dealing with the Big Three on a constant basis. Suprisingly, he is trying to expand the business, he even wants to liscence the technology, bring this "look" to a powder coater near you. But that ain't gonna happen overnight.
Gary seemed pleasant and easy to work with. I am approaching him from a professional level, as my company of 55,000 people are interested in an environmentally friendly replacement for the traditional copper/nickle/chrome method historically used.

For $600 (but remember, it is a buyers market today, negotiate, negotiate, negotiate!) Gary will do four rims, with his four step process in any of the three finishes shown (he may have more, dunno), you pay shipping, there and back. The steps consist of:

Step 1. Strip exixting powder coating from your wheels-remember to remove your existing wheel weights! Done by sandblasting. This is an OK method. In fact, it helps the powder adhere.

Step 2. Apply base primer coat at about .004-.005" thickness. This is necessary to provide a level surface for good reflective qualities of the metalization process. Cure in an oven.

Step 3. In a VPD (vapor deposition chamber), metal is vaporized and deposited, atom by atom, to the primer coat leveling finish. Cure in an oven.

Step 4. Apply a clear, high gloss powder coating to protect the metalized surface. Cure in an oven, ship back to the customer.

There is a 50/50 chance that my stock wheels will be the guinea pig for this project, aimed at a "real world" testing situation for the benefit of my company, ITW. My problem, is that the center cap is an aluminum disc attached to a plastic backing that holds the center disc in place. If I can seperate, coat, reattach, my wheels will be the guinea pig. If not, a co workers Corvette rims go, as his center cap is entirely aluminum. Do not send Gary anything that cannot survive 450 F for at least a half an hour. Consider that the black "A" logo will be lost in the coating process. It is for you to live with, or refill in. Should not be too tough. Of course, I paint for a living. When my rims come back, I will simply use masking tape (designed for powder coating), and reapply the black "A" with powder coating. I can help others who want to do the same. Your car red? Blue? I can do a red or blue "A". No cost to you.

And if you have scratches or dings in your wheels, chances are good the scratches will disappear in the first coat process, but do not expect any "magic bullets" regarding dings. If my wheels are the test pig, I'm going for the black pearl finish on my satin silver 03 CL-S six speed.

Everybody, if you choose to call gary, please be kind and business like working worth him. I have a business stake here, I could make him millions, and he could make the same for my company. Thank you for your consideration.

Finally, I didn't just go ga-ga over some article I have read in a technical magazine. I have been powder coating for some 13 years, have implemented several complete shifts from liquid to powder, and have three in the pipeline, one worth $1,000,000. I have two patents regarding powder coating (US 5,379,880, and 5,476,689) so I am not blowing smoke. This powder coating stuff works, and blows away conventional copper/nickle chrome, which may require 10 steps.

Gary can be reached at 925.432.7782. Hope to see you all at our next meet with the best looking wheels around. Dave, the powder coater.

NOVAwhiteTypeS

dupe post

dfreder371

Nova white S: Check out the sites provided, check out the US patent office for the numbers offered and you will see that they are legit. Then post another "dupe post", proving that you do not know up from down. Scheesh!

dfreder371

Nova: I am waiting to hear your "Facts". got any? I doubt it. Maybe, you, are, "the dupe?". I think so. Anxiously waiting your reply, filled with facts to be sure. What is taking you so long?

dfreder371

Nova white S: I see you are a moderator of this board. Do you wish to engage into a banter into this technology, as to this being a "dupe post", as you suggested? I am waiting...

zeroday

dude what is your problem. not much of a salesman are you.

dfreder371

Zero: here I spend most of my time, trying to get a good deal for my acura cl buddies. I do lots of research, post factual postings (2), and have Nova White S reply "dupe post". Boy, I'll bet you that took all of ten seconds. I have asked him to challenge my facts, three consecutive times, no reply. I guess he has an agenda, and I no longer turst his judgement.

mattg

i would be surprised if the coating held up like real chrome, aka fine scratches from being rubbed with a towel, etc.

zeroday

HELLO!??! he posted 'dupe post' (meaning 'duplicate post' ) because you already started a thread on this subject a few days ago..maybe he didn't notice you were the original poster, or maybe he just didn't think you should be starting a new thread on the same shit?? Calling out a mod here is a bad idea if you want to sell anything.

AK_MOBBER

mattg have you ever seen powder coating?!? its tough stuff!!! I'm actually thinking about doing this... or I will buy some new factory blinging 16 inch chromes.

dfreder370, I think nova said dupe post meaning duplicate post because you named this thread similar to the other one. Calm down with your speed posting!

zeroday

haha just realized he thought NOVA was implying it was a post designed to 'dupe' people LOL. Now that is funny.

mattg

i've had many automotive pieces powdercoated. currently the rear brace and subwoofer box in my trunk are coated, and i'm not very impressed. rub it, it scratches, try to polish out the scratches, it scratches more.

dfreder371

OK, I am wrong, I am wrong, I am wrong. I took the word "dupe" wrongly, and I apologise to all involved . Sorry, really. But, what I posted to you really works. I wouldn't sit in front of my home terminal, and spend about two + hours. sending you astray. Sorry, nova type s, and I hope you understand. I was only trying to benefit the acura CL community. I onlt wanted to provide an update, as I figure, our community, does not dig too far back to confront issues. It is my failing, but after posting a two hour typing excersice (for me, complete with links, a two word reply, which I did not understand, seemed offensive to me.) Sorry, once again. I was only trying to help.

NOVAwhiteTypeS

appology accpeted. I'll start to write things out. I wasn't aware you where the same person who started the orginial thread. usually we try to keep all info's in 1 thread to make it easier.

dfreder371

Nova: Thanks again, and again, I am sorry. I am just really excited about the new technology, because I understand it, and I do it for a living. Mattg: Your powder may not be cured properly, or the powder quality is poor. Almost all (Isaid almost) pc manufacturers do a good job of standing up to their performance claims. But I have run up against two who do not know how to formulate. American Powder Coatings, and gasp! Sherwin Williams.

If it is a cure issue, do this. Take a shop knife, a sharp one, to the coating at a shallow angle, about 5 degrees. If it is cured, it will curl like a pigs tail. If not, it will come off in flakes. If it flakes, go back to your coater and demand that he strips and recoats for you for free. Another check is to do 50 double rubs, forward and back, with MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) on the same area. It should lose some gloss. That is OK. If it rubs through to the metal, again, not cured.