It's been a while since I've last updated some info on the setup. The motor is holding fine so far and the kills keep piling up. They are to numerous to write about and most cars that are fast, just aren't in this hp range. I've had my ass handed to me only a couple times, one by an turbo eclispe (though, not by much) and another by a turbo porsche who literally left me like I left that STI I wrote about a while back. Everytime I wax someone, I slow down just to see their perplexed look on their face. That makes this turbo worth every cent.

I had two problems that occured at the same time that through me under the bus and scratching my head. My fuel pressure was slowy dropping, I thought fine, time to replace the walbro. It sounded weak. I ordered it put it in and the same thing was occuring. WTF? I checked everything from the lines to the connection on the gauge. I decided to replace the sender at a cost of $100, what a rip. That seemed to be the problem, fuel pressure back up, actually 4lbs higher at idle. Just to be sure I didn't need to replace the old pump, I put the old pump back in and it was bad, so, put the new one back in. I tend to do things the hard way. Funny how things happen in "3's". The day before my fuel pump and sender went, my alternator on my truck took a dump, so went to drive the cl, and poof, it's breaking down. All's well now.


A recent change I've made is to the water injection. Instead of using the 50/50 windsheild fluid, I changed over to straight Methanol. It is a thousand times better. You can actually feel it come on. I should have done this sooner. I don't know what the whp gain is, but it is significant. It feels like it's boosting 10psi on 7-8 psi. I'll tell you, I've been pounding the heck out of this thing and after a while, 10psi doesn't feel fast anymore. You get use to it.

Overall, Everything is holding up fine and again, if anyone ever wants to really turbo this motor, you won't be dissapointed.

Cheers!

 

Good Stuff

Glad you were able to work out the issues and get it fine tuned. I think most guys are using the 50/50 mix to cool the intake temps. Since you've got such a big FMIC, probably not as much of a concern.

I was thinking MrSteve also had problems with his fuel pressure guage relabilty too.

Are you still building up the 3.5L?

 

i would love to do the same.

if you really don't like that feeling, let us swap cars for awhile and see if you don't appreciate all that boost and power.
good shit man. thanks for the update on what some of us only dream of doing with the crazy potential of our cars.

 

The FMIC does it's job, but it has it's limitations as it's been hot and humid here and the performance is seriously degraded because of that. The windshield washer 50/50 mix has other stuff in it too which reduces it's effectiveness. I tried the methanol I have in a 50/50 mix and it performed much better than the windshield washer stuff. At 100% methanol, it's incredible and it's very cold to the touch. When it comes out under high pressure and is atomized, no telling how cold it is. It really helps the density of the air charge.

I think vibration killed the sender and will have to relocate it. The 3.5 is on the back burner for now.


I can imagine how it would feel going back to stock. When I had the SC on and took it off, it was 5 steps back for sure.

The turbo is not for everyone, and it can be pricey. However, most of the expensive stuff has already been researched by trial and error. One could get it done for around 6-7k if the right connections are made for parts. the turbo can be unforgiving on the motor if one doesn't pay attention to how much boost you put into it. It requires a very high octane to eliminate any degree of detonation.

Before I put on the knock link, which lights up like a christmas tree when it detects knock, I didn't think I was detonating, I couldn't hear it. When I put it on, it was lighting up a little, and a little over time will crush a piston as allmotor experienced. It's a fun toy and I'd like to see the fence sitters take the plunge.

 

sounds good man, sounds good... cant wait to see this thing in action again.

 

Thanks for the update. Glad everything is going smooth for you.

 

i'm waiting for 20 psi on the built block. if your compression is low enough, rods are strong enough, and used HT coating, it'd probably be fine. slowly the CL is taken to the realm of dare i say, supras. these motors love boost. and it isn't unrealistic to expect a 750+ hp CL daily driven. by the sound of your 500+ hp beast and your feelings of 'getting used to it' , those who want to push the limit will, and it appears these cars can take it. i love every second of it.

cheers.

 

Personally, I think that's a little optomistic, but that's just me.

 

20psi+500-750HP, I think is very doable. With the right setup, bullet proofing and tuning those kinds of numbers I think are obtainable and still be somewhat of a daily driver. However the issue in a CL with those kind of numbers would be TRACTION!! FWD has it's limitations, that's where the Supra's,300ZX,350Z,G35,M3 etc etc would walk a CL. BHP is pointless if you can't get it to the ground. Of course this is only my opinion.

 

maybe 20 is a little high, but with his setup whenever it gets done, should be able to boost fairly high. he is already at well over 500 bhp.

 

i agree 20psi is high, the main issue people come across running those kind of boost numbers is keeping the motor together and also the intercooler losing effecency (sp). I've seen alot of people spray the core with Nitrious, NO2 is very cold when compressed and is far better then spraying the intercooler with water or some form of alcohol. My old 323 GTX would blow hot air anything above 13psi, intercooler wasn't able to cool the charge air very well under high boost. Of course a bigger intercooler would do the trick but then you've got major boost lag.

 

Don't get me started on Autometer's senders. POS... I replaced it twice.

 

i would never put autometer gauges. greddy makes some good ones.

i think he can see at least 12psi on the built motor and still have things running effecient. and if he is only boosting 8 psi max now, i think 500+whp is easily doable.

 

a built motor will have no problems doing at least 500 whp, which is about 600 at the crank. that could be a street setup. with race gas and methanol injection, 600 whp or more can be achieved.
personally i would go for 500-600 whp on a built motor for reliability.

 

I think a built motor, pistons/sleeves/rods/good tuning ...could surpass 600whp however on race gas and some type of methanol injection system ...It's just other stuff that might not last. I see b-series motors do it all the time.

 

I would have assumed that 100% water would perform the best because of the high specific heat of water compared to methanol.

 

I'm not please that it went, and it will go again soon if I don't relocate it to an area with less vibration. Anyway, I've been looking at doing something different in gauges and found these. I've been looking for duel gauges and these are priced cheaper than most race gauges. You can get them in any combination. What do you guys think. I'll need 3 of the EGT dual gauge, for the new motor as i want to see what every cylnders egt is. the also make iat gauges for before and after the ic.




The meth is much better than straight water, no question about it, makes the charge more dense.

 

^awesome gauges.

 

Never seen those gauges before...but on another note I may pick up a meth injection kit. How much do those gauges run price wise?

 

the round is 102.00 and the square is 130.00 the probe and other accessories are about 80.00. much cheaper than autometer or defi or whoever, and look great.