I spoke with Paisley today and he said they will make a turbo kit for our car for about 6k. I didnt really get into details about it, but the customer can choose designated power output from around 50-100hp. If anyone else is interested in this please respond maybe I can get some kind of group deal going for us.

 

speaking of 50-100hp...
How do the CL's run with NOS? I know there's a few of you out there squueeeeeeeeeeezing...

 

nice, but 5K-6K hmm not sure about that price just for 100 HP

 

i'm the only one i think...it's running good

 

what about torque #s?

 

There a guy in ID working on a turbo kit for Accord V6's... $2,300 for a non-intercooled T-03 .45 trim 4-6psi kit (aprox 270hp crank), and $2,600 for an intercooled setup (aprox 305hp crank). This equates to a 70-105hp increase for an Accord. If you tranny can handle it, I thik the T-03 turbo is good for a max of 8 psi. Supposedly this thing spools up quick... around 2,000 rpms.

Have to wait and see if it really happens or if its merely vapor ware.

Oh yea, they also said they would see about trying to have a kit that would work with the upper portion of the comptech headers for people who aleady own the headers. (You would of course lose the downpipe portion of the headers though.

[ 07-24-2001: Message edited by: BNut ]

 

Many performance retailers are selling turbo kits for the Accord V6. They're finding that with a little adaptation, the kit will fit the 3.2 CL/TL.

There are some things to consider when turbo shopping:

1. Every kit that I've seen uses the TD-03 turbo. This compressor doesn't flow enough air volume to support a 3.2 V6 at 7,000 rpm.

The Garrett T04 would be much better suited to our engines. The following compressors would work well:

S3: 4-6 psi
V1: 6-8 psi
H3: 8-10 psi

2. Many of the kits I've seen are not intercooled. This is really not a good choice for a turbocharged engine! When air is compressed the temperature increases. The intake charge is also heated by the compressor (since the turbine is driven by exhaust gas). The heated intake charge and increased cylinder pressure will make detonation inevitable and performance gains will be minimal.

A decent intercooler operating at 75% efficiency will cool the intake charge to about 70 degrees.

3. The factory fuel injection is not capable of providing optimum forced induction performance. As an example, examine the HKS Accord V6 kit. The gain is 50-60 hp using 8+ pounds of boost!?! In theory for every 14.7 pounds of boost you're adding another atmosphere, and thereby doubling horsepower. There are some inherent losses with a turbo, but you should realize at least 85% of that. The HKS kit is operating at about 50%!

If you're investing in a turbo you must also invest in proper engine management. An after-market EFI computer will allow you to tune the engine with incredible precision. This will optimize power, efficiency, and reliability.

[ 07-24-2001: Message edited by: SSMAN ]

 

Turbo's cost too much j/k. I would love a turbo but right now I'm fine running NOS on my TL. 80hp on tap.

 

I've had several turbocharged cars (talon, 300zx, shelby daytona, eclipse spyder) over the years. Here's my advice:

1) don't even think about putting a turbo on without intercooling it. It just doesn't make sense to make that kind of an investment without protecting it. The lifespan of an intercooled turbo will be much longer, and it'll require less maintenance.

2) expect to make your trans work a lot harder. I had a race built (ported and polished heads, etc.) turbo motor put in a shelby daytona and went through my trans a lot faster than I expected. It was a "project car" so, it was something for a learning experience for me, but as a daily driver, keep that in mind.

3) you'll absolutely need a new computer module, or at least some reprogramming to make it run efficiently. Your system's just not set up for the kind of flow you're going to be putting through it. Keep in mind most turbo motors run lower compression than a similar normally-aspirated motor because of the increased pressure of the charge and higher power generated per stroke.

Anyway, turbocharging is a great way to add a bunch of power "on tap" for when you need it, without altering the driveability of the car for everyday use. I'm a big fan of it. I just got an A6 2.7T and plan to mod the chip once it's broken in. :-)

 

Who is Paisley???

 

Craig Paisley???? Hahahahahahah! Yeah right! I would never let him touch my car.

 

SSMAN how do you know so much. And I thought turbos could do higher PSI than 10. Could you do higher PSI than 10 if you built the bottom end and got a new fuel system?

 

To handle high boost, both the bottom end & top should be redone (ie. ARP fasteners, Fel-Pro 1007 lockwire gaskets, O-ring heads/block). Even when all of this is done, your still need to run higher octane than what is offered at the local gas station.

 

You can run 1 bar, with premium fuel. You just have to have a lower compression with turboed engines. What SSMAN is trying to say is with our high compression we are limited as to how much we can boost. If we lowered our compression to 8.5-9:1 then we can boost more safely.

Spiro

 

Wouldnt you just wait for the Comptech Supercharger?

 

KCPreki11 - I have been restoring, modifying, and racing cars for the past 13 years. I have extensive experience in engine building, including turbos, superchargers, and nitrous. For several years I dominated the Fun Ford Street Outlaw class running in the low 9's on 10.5" slicks. My current project, a 64 Pontiac GTO will run in the low 8's. I have a 2 year degree in automotive technology, and a 4 year degree in mechanical engineering. I am ASE certified as a Master Technician. I'm also employed by Honda Motor Company.

You can elect to run more than 10 psi, but I wouldn't suggest it for a street driven application. When building an engine you need to first decide what the primary purpose of the car will be. Do you intend to build a healthy street car, a road racing machine, or do you want to launch an assault on the drag racing community?

Most of us want to dominate the stop light wars, handle with agility and precision, and look good doing it

If you plan to run more than 10 psi the engine will require substantial modifications to reliably survive the abuse. This includes a billet steel crankshaft, custom forged connecting rods, custom pistons (with dished tops for lower compression....and lower top ring placement to avoid burning). You'll need quality head gaskets, and the proper machined finish on the block and head surfaces to seal well. Just remember, the head gasket serves the same purpose to the engine that fuses serve to the electrical system.

The moral of my story.....more isn't always better. Rather than making sacrifices to reliability, why not make more efficient use of what's available? It's entirely possible to produce 400+ hp with the H3 compressor at 10 psi.

[ 07-25-2001: Message edited by: SSMAN ]

 

turbos are better than superchargers :p

Astroboy out...

 

Thanks for the info Astro.