transmission cooler question/problem
09-04-2003, 10:06 PM
#1
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transmission cooler question/problem
Hi want to know if anybody has installed a trans cooler on the cl.
wanted to know what brand and how much it cost and how much was installation..
I an asking because went i drive my cl in the morning and late at night the car feels so much smoother and more power but when i drive it in the middle of the day the trans shift hard and the car feels slugish. So want ed to know if a trans cooler helped...
wanted to know what brand and how much it cost and how much was installation..
I an asking because went i drive my cl in the morning and late at night the car feels so much smoother and more power but when i drive it in the middle of the day the trans shift hard and the car feels slugish. So want ed to know if a trans cooler helped...
09-05-2003, 04:28 AM
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09-05-2003, 12:55 PM
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Correct me if I am wrong, I thought the tranmission fluid of most automatic cars are routed to the radiator for cooling. Therefore, for most situations, a separate transmission cooler is not really necessary unless you are doing some special driving, such as rally or other types of racing.
09-05-2003, 01:29 PM
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09-06-2003, 02:04 PM
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Subie Dubie
Originally posted by JakeCL
did i see you a few weeks ago on laguna blvd in elk grove? got onto 99 north?
did i see you a few weeks ago on laguna blvd in elk grove? got onto 99 north?
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09-06-2003, 02:06 PM
#8
Subie Dubie
Originally posted by TypeSDragoon
WEST COAST MEET IS NEXT WEEK!!!!!!
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...hreadid=112409
WEST COAST MEET IS NEXT WEEK!!!!!!
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...hreadid=112409
09-06-2003, 02:48 PM
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Originally posted by tdtsai
Correct me if I am wrong, I thought the tranmission fluid of most automatic cars are routed to the radiator for cooling. Therefore, for most situations, a separate transmission cooler is not really necessary unless you are doing some special driving, such as rally or other types of racing.
Correct me if I am wrong, I thought the tranmission fluid of most automatic cars are routed to the radiator for cooling. Therefore, for most situations, a separate transmission cooler is not really necessary unless you are doing some special driving, such as rally or other types of racing.
09-08-2003, 03:14 PM
#13
Suzuka Master
Originally posted by scalbert
Not in this case, there is no real cooler in the system.
Not in this case, there is no real cooler in the system.
There's nothing wrong with a ATF-to-water intercooler when it's big enough for the application.
The irony is: overcooled ATF will actually cause overheating problems in the third gear clutch pack.
Is it a Cooler --> yes.
Is it a Warmer --> yes.
"Real Cooler" --> well, if the car made about 200 HP max ... perhaps...
The Comptech cooler (same one you pioneered) has some nice simple temp control. I'd hate to see someone put on a huge radiator with no temp. control.
09-08-2003, 06:22 PM
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I just installed the B&M super cooler yesterday, using the write-up from Silverbullet's install, except instead of using the ties, I mounted it using the brackets. The hardest part was loosening the ATF fill bolt. had to use an air rachet. I also flush and fill with Amsoil (It's now Honda Z1 compatible). Drives realley nice now. That cooler really is hot, even after a few miles of driving.
The fluid that came out was pitch black, however no clutch material was in the fluid so I guess that's a good thing.
It really is an easy install.
The fluid that came out was pitch black, however no clutch material was in the fluid so I guess that's a good thing.
It really is an easy install.
09-08-2003, 08:37 PM
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Originally posted by rchavis
I just installed the B&M super cooler yesterday, using the write-up from Silverbullet's install, except instead of using the ties, I mounted it using the brackets. The hardest part was loosening the ATF fill bolt. had to use an air rachet. I also flush and fill with Amsoil (It's now Honda Z1 compatible). Drives realley nice now. That cooler really is hot, even after a few miles of driving.
The fluid that came out was pitch black, however no clutch material was in the fluid so I guess that's a good thing.
It really is an easy install.
I just installed the B&M super cooler yesterday, using the write-up from Silverbullet's install, except instead of using the ties, I mounted it using the brackets. The hardest part was loosening the ATF fill bolt. had to use an air rachet. I also flush and fill with Amsoil (It's now Honda Z1 compatible). Drives realley nice now. That cooler really is hot, even after a few miles of driving.
The fluid that came out was pitch black, however no clutch material was in the fluid so I guess that's a good thing.
It really is an easy install.
. Is anyone else having this problem? I hope this broken link is temporary because I plan on doing the install next week & need those instructions. 
09-09-2003, 12:26 AM
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Install and flush took me about 2 hours, only because I had to stop and go find a shop that was open on Sundays to use an air ratchet. I mounted the cooler first, then I decided that before I remove the factory hose, to check to see if the fill bolt would come off, and sure enough it wouldn't. Learn from changing differential fluids on my Toyota 4 runner. Always remove the fill bolt first before you remove the drain bolt or else you will be stuck with no fluid in the diffs. In this case however, it's not that major, since only a small amount of fluid is lost when you removed the hose on the tranny.
You could always just reinstall the orignal hose and take it to a shop. Any ways once the fill bolt is loosen, then you can remove the factory hose and install your lines for the cooler. I started with 12 feet of heavy duty Gates 3/8 Tranny cooler hose. Connect one end to the out-flow side of the tranny (closest to the driver's side fender). then route the line under the battery tray to the front and out the left side air dam and around to the driver's door and into a 1 gallon milk bottle.
Then start the motor, let it fill to half full (about 2 qts) while slowly shifting through all gears. Stop the motor, fill with fresh fliud. Pour the old fluid into the empty bottles, and repeat until you get nice red fluid flowing. Took 10 1/2 quarts for me or about 5 times repeating this procedure.
Cut the line and attached to the upper tube on the cooler, then connect the rest of the line to the lower tube of the cooler (return line) and route that hose to the tranny inlet tube, where you removed the factory line and check fluid level, add what's needed to read at the top hole on the dip stick with engine off. Wait about 5 mins before checking fluid with engine off.
Test drive and check for leaks.
You could always just reinstall the orignal hose and take it to a shop. Any ways once the fill bolt is loosen, then you can remove the factory hose and install your lines for the cooler. I started with 12 feet of heavy duty Gates 3/8 Tranny cooler hose. Connect one end to the out-flow side of the tranny (closest to the driver's side fender). then route the line under the battery tray to the front and out the left side air dam and around to the driver's door and into a 1 gallon milk bottle.
Then start the motor, let it fill to half full (about 2 qts) while slowly shifting through all gears. Stop the motor, fill with fresh fliud. Pour the old fluid into the empty bottles, and repeat until you get nice red fluid flowing. Took 10 1/2 quarts for me or about 5 times repeating this procedure.
Cut the line and attached to the upper tube on the cooler, then connect the rest of the line to the lower tube of the cooler (return line) and route that hose to the tranny inlet tube, where you removed the factory line and check fluid level, add what's needed to read at the top hole on the dip stick with engine off. Wait about 5 mins before checking fluid with engine off.
Test drive and check for leaks.
09-09-2003, 04:16 PM
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Thanks rchavis 
Your directions seem easier than Silverbullet's for some strange reason.
How does the tranny feel now? Do you notice firmer shifts? Just curious.
Your directions seem easier than Silverbullet's for some strange reason.
How does the tranny feel now? Do you notice firmer shifts? Just curious.
09-09-2003, 04:34 PM
#20
Subie Dubie
Originally posted by rchavis
I just installed the B&M super cooler yesterday, using the write-up from Silverbullet's install, except instead of using the ties, I mounted it using the brackets. The hardest part was loosening the ATF fill bolt. had to use an air rachet. I also flush and fill with Amsoil (It's now Honda Z1 compatible). Drives realley nice now. That cooler really is hot, even after a few miles of driving.
The fluid that came out was pitch black, however no clutch material was in the fluid so I guess that's a good thing.
It really is an easy install.
I just installed the B&M super cooler yesterday, using the write-up from Silverbullet's install, except instead of using the ties, I mounted it using the brackets. The hardest part was loosening the ATF fill bolt. had to use an air rachet. I also flush and fill with Amsoil (It's now Honda Z1 compatible). Drives realley nice now. That cooler really is hot, even after a few miles of driving.
The fluid that came out was pitch black, however no clutch material was in the fluid so I guess that's a good thing.
It really is an easy install.
Literally !! See ya on Friday
09-10-2003, 03:19 AM
#21
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Originally posted by civic4982
Can you put a tranny cooler on the 6 speed?
Can you put a tranny cooler on the 6 speed?
With that said, many racing applications will have a way to cool the gearbox.
10-04-2003, 11:55 PM
#22
Blown is Best
I ran into a problem installing my Tranny Cooler today on my '03 TL-S and can use some help. Did they change the Stock Auto Tranny Cooler on the '03's? I had no problems when I did my '99 TL but on my '03, I don't see any tranny lines running from the Radiator.
The input and output fluid lines listed in the write ups above all have the conventional lines to the radiator. In my case, it looks line the input and output lines are connected without flowing to the radiator. There is a device between the input and output lines and I'm wondering if that's the new method of cooling the fluid on the '03's. The device also looks like it has cooant lines running to it also.
Can someone shed some light on this? Am I missing something.
The input and output fluid lines listed in the write ups above all have the conventional lines to the radiator. In my case, it looks line the input and output lines are connected without flowing to the radiator. There is a device between the input and output lines and I'm wondering if that's the new method of cooling the fluid on the '03's. The device also looks like it has cooant lines running to it also.
Can someone shed some light on this? Am I missing something.
10-05-2003, 12:14 AM
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This is correct. There is no lines running to the radiator. My write-up/Install is for an 01 thur 03 automatic. This write-up as well as the one at http://home.satx.rr.com/silverbullet/tranny.htm will work on yours.
May need an air wrench to remove the fill bolt.
May need an air wrench to remove the fill bolt.
10-05-2003, 06:59 AM
#24
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Originally posted by Allout
Can someone shed some light on this? Am I missing something.
Can someone shed some light on this? Am I missing something.
10-05-2003, 08:19 AM
#25
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Never mind, here you go,....see where it sais remove,...that's where the two lines go.
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...hp?photo=16729
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...hp?photo=16729
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