Hi want to know if anybody has installed a trans cooler on the cl.
wanted to know what brand and how much it cost and how much was installation..

I an asking because went i drive my cl in the morning and late at night the car feels so much smoother and more power but when i drive it in the middle of the day the trans shift hard and the car feels slugish. So want ed to know if a trans cooler helped...

 

http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...threadid=62994

 

Correct me if I am wrong, I thought the tranmission fluid of most automatic cars are routed to the radiator for cooling. Therefore, for most situations, a separate transmission cooler is not really necessary unless you are doing some special driving, such as rally or other types of racing.

 

Try this link

 

did i see you a few weeks ago on laguna blvd in elk grove? got onto 99 north?

 

WEST COAST MEET IS NEXT WEEK!!!!!!

http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...hreadid=112409

 

Maybe me, i live there. Was it RED ?? By the way, i have the SC so the kit came with the tranny cooler from Comptech. It can't hurt IMO.

 

Come on Jake and join us, Hammer and i need someone else to caravan with. We're leaving Friday, early.

 

Not in this case, there is no real cooler in the system.

 

I am always in laguna driving around I have a blk cl , lowered with a versus kit on it

 

I use to have a comptech s/c on it, do you think that it messed up my trans

 

does anyone near sac know how to install a trans cooler , I looked at the link and it seems difficult any help would be great

thanks

 

It's a cooler/warmer, but Acura made it way too small for "spirited" driving and stop-and-go traffic.

There's nothing wrong with a ATF-to-water intercooler when it's big enough for the application.

The irony is: overcooled ATF will actually cause overheating problems in the third gear clutch pack.

Is it a Cooler --> yes.

Is it a Warmer --> yes.

"Real Cooler" --> well, if the car made about 200 HP max ... perhaps...

The Comptech cooler (same one you pioneered) has some nice simple temp control. I'd hate to see someone put on a huge radiator with no temp. control.

 

I probably should have put real in quotes...

Nice to hear from ya, but where you been Eric???

 

I just installed the B&M super cooler yesterday, using the write-up from Silverbullet's install, except instead of using the ties, I mounted it using the brackets. The hardest part was loosening the ATF fill bolt. had to use an air rachet. I also flush and fill with Amsoil (It's now Honda Z1 compatible). Drives realley nice now. That cooler really is hot, even after a few miles of driving.
The fluid that came out was pitch black, however no clutch material was in the fluid so I guess that's a good thing.

It really is an easy install.

 

How long did it take? Also, I just tried going to Silverbullet's install link & it doesn't work . Is anyone else having this problem? I hope this broken link is temporary because I plan on doing the install next week & need those instructions.

 

Install and flush took me about 2 hours, only because I had to stop and go find a shop that was open on Sundays to use an air ratchet. I mounted the cooler first, then I decided that before I remove the factory hose, to check to see if the fill bolt would come off, and sure enough it wouldn't. Learn from changing differential fluids on my Toyota 4 runner. Always remove the fill bolt first before you remove the drain bolt or else you will be stuck with no fluid in the diffs. In this case however, it's not that major, since only a small amount of fluid is lost when you removed the hose on the tranny.

You could always just reinstall the orignal hose and take it to a shop. Any ways once the fill bolt is loosen, then you can remove the factory hose and install your lines for the cooler. I started with 12 feet of heavy duty Gates 3/8 Tranny cooler hose. Connect one end to the out-flow side of the tranny (closest to the driver's side fender). then route the line under the battery tray to the front and out the left side air dam and around to the driver's door and into a 1 gallon milk bottle.

Then start the motor, let it fill to half full (about 2 qts) while slowly shifting through all gears. Stop the motor, fill with fresh fliud. Pour the old fluid into the empty bottles, and repeat until you get nice red fluid flowing. Took 10 1/2 quarts for me or about 5 times repeating this procedure.

Cut the line and attached to the upper tube on the cooler, then connect the rest of the line to the lower tube of the cooler (return line) and route that hose to the tranny inlet tube, where you removed the factory line and check fluid level, add what's needed to read at the top hole on the dip stick with engine off. Wait about 5 mins before checking fluid with engine off.

Test drive and check for leaks.

 

Thanks rchavis

Your directions seem easier than Silverbullet's for some strange reason.
How does the tranny feel now? Do you notice firmer shifts? Just curious.

 

Can you put a tranny cooler on the 6 speed?

 

Literally !! See ya on Friday

 

Yes and no, first it is not nessesary. Plus there is no direct pump to flow fluid in and out.

With that said, many racing applications will have a way to cool the gearbox.

 

I ran into a problem installing my Tranny Cooler today on my '03 TL-S and can use some help. Did they change the Stock Auto Tranny Cooler on the '03's? I had no problems when I did my '99 TL but on my '03, I don't see any tranny lines running from the Radiator.

The input and output fluid lines listed in the write ups above all have the conventional lines to the radiator. In my case, it looks line the input and output lines are connected without flowing to the radiator. There is a device between the input and output lines and I'm wondering if that's the new method of cooling the fluid on the '03's. The device also looks like it has cooant lines running to it also.

Can someone shed some light on this? Am I missing something.

 

This is correct. There is no lines running to the radiator. My write-up/Install is for an 01 thur 03 automatic. This write-up as well as the one at http://home.satx.rr.com/silverbullet/tranny.htm will work on yours.
May need an air wrench to remove the fill bolt.

 

Do you have a fax, or I can 'scan to email' to you a line drawing from the Comptech install instructions that might help.

 

Never mind, here you go,....see where it sais remove,...that's where the two lines go.
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...hp?photo=16729

 

ModAddict,

Thanks for the clarification and picture. Crystal Clear now.

You guys are the best!!!