trans ate itself in 30000 kilometers
04-10-2011, 03:48 PM
#161
well, caster is out because the radius rod bushing was installed incorrectly and got pinched so it caused excessive negative caster.
it's been like this for months but without lowering the car it made no difference to me before as opposed to now.
as for the TRANSMISSION
FYI it was 15 degrees C today and the transmission got just about to 190degreec F with some spirited driving for a few minutes.
that's WITH a cooler installed so I can only imagine how badly the components would wither away with the stock auto trans set-up.
Imagine those 30 degree days and that 50 degree C assfault. it's be an inferno in there!
it's been like this for months but without lowering the car it made no difference to me before as opposed to now.
as for the TRANSMISSION
FYI it was 15 degrees C today and the transmission got just about to 190degreec F with some spirited driving for a few minutes.
that's WITH a cooler installed so I can only imagine how badly the components would wither away with the stock auto trans set-up.
Imagine those 30 degree days and that 50 degree C assfault. it's be an inferno in there!
04-11-2011, 03:21 AM
#162
Ultra Negro
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Last I checked heat was not the main culprit destroying the trannies, wasn't it the fact that certain ports were getting clogged and basically preventing trans fluid from getting to other clutches???
04-11-2011, 06:34 AM
#163
yes^ and that occurs from too much heat and then the components start to fail which deteriorates the clutches and clogs orficaces and then you have no flow of fluid and then everything fails.
it all begins with clutch deterioration due to either lack of fluid reaching the clutches and thus they heat up past their breaking point.
it all begins with clutch deterioration due to either lack of fluid reaching the clutches and thus they heat up past their breaking point.
04-11-2011, 05:45 PM
#164
I Wanna Beer
when you made the bulletproof claims a couple months ago. Think getting a different car would have been a better bet.
04-11-2011, 05:53 PM
#165
I Wanna Beer
What's the stall on the new converter? Chances are decent that you actually made your car slower off the line in addition to lowering the gas mileage since it takes higher engine RPM to get moving.
04-11-2011, 05:53 PM
#166
well getting a new car would certainly be the more reliable route... but i love this car to death and i just lowered it and people are just giving me endless compliments on the whole ride. so i really cannot let it go..
too many memories tied up in the CL . period
too many memories tied up in the CL . period
04-11-2011, 05:58 PM
#167
Uuuuh why would you make that claim? Seems the stall on the factory converter is just fine. All you're doing with a higher stall on the CL-S is spinning the tires and lowering gas mileage. You aren't putting more power overall to the ground with a higher stall, just not putting the power down until the engine RPM is higher at which does mean you'll be making more torque and HP at the point the wheels start moving but in a FWD pig like the CL, it'll just equate to spinning tires.
What's the stall on the new converter? Chances are decent that you actually made your car slower off the line in addition to lowering the gas mileage since it takes higher engine RPM to get moving.
What's the stall on the new converter? Chances are decent that you actually made your car slower off the line in addition to lowering the gas mileage since it takes higher engine RPM to get moving.
04-11-2011, 06:00 PM
#168
I Wanna Beer
04-11-2011, 06:07 PM
#169
^ i have to agree with the weez on that one
I was going to get a custom stall on my tq converter from level ten but after talking with the guy he even said that it's just not worth doing one for this car. it will make a lot more wheel spin, and i dunno about you guys but I cannot stop the wheels from spinning as it is, so I cannot see how unleashing even more power at the launch point will result in a faster run. With sliks and a front end slammed to the ground maybe it's be worth it.. but for ppl like us, spend ur money where it counts
in theory tho, the more power the faster u go, but in actuality there is a fine balance.
just look at the 60 ft times for a S/C auto cl and compare that to motor tends run of 14.9. there is barely a difference for the power gain. and wheelspin is the culprit
I was going to get a custom stall on my tq converter from level ten but after talking with the guy he even said that it's just not worth doing one for this car. it will make a lot more wheel spin, and i dunno about you guys but I cannot stop the wheels from spinning as it is, so I cannot see how unleashing even more power at the launch point will result in a faster run. With sliks and a front end slammed to the ground maybe it's be worth it.. but for ppl like us, spend ur money where it counts
in theory tho, the more power the faster u go, but in actuality there is a fine balance.
just look at the 60 ft times for a S/C auto cl and compare that to motor tends run of 14.9. there is barely a difference for the power gain. and wheelspin is the culprit
04-11-2011, 06:15 PM
#170
I Wanna Beer
It could be helpful if this was a RWD car but most of the time in FWDs, it's not worth the tradeoff unless the car was setup as a super eco box with a very low stall to start with (rare for that to happen though since the smaller engines usually need higher stalls so the engine is making enough torque just to get things moving).
Even going from 2500rpm to like 2700-3000rpm in my SHO made for lots more wheel spin. Add to it a supercharger and other addons with over 400ft-lbs TQ and you can see how 12s escaped me yet an awesome driver was able to hit high 12s in an '89 SHO that was stock (220HP, 200FT-LBS TQ 3L V6) with just a bit of NOS and a 5-speed manual. My increased stall wasn't something I asked for but ended up with when I had it built up with brazed fins and other work.
Even going from 2500rpm to like 2700-3000rpm in my SHO made for lots more wheel spin. Add to it a supercharger and other addons with over 400ft-lbs TQ and you can see how 12s escaped me yet an awesome driver was able to hit high 12s in an '89 SHO that was stock (220HP, 200FT-LBS TQ 3L V6) with just a bit of NOS and a 5-speed manual. My increased stall wasn't something I asked for but ended up with when I had it built up with brazed fins and other work.
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