RooEng

For those who have done this, what did you find was the most difficult part? Did you have to use or buy any special tools?

I'm going to change it this weekend and just wanted to prepare myself. I have all the parts, belts, pulleys, tensioner and waterpump and I've taken off the crank pulley a few years ago, so that shouldn't be a problem. Just looking at, there doesn't seem to be any room.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

subscribed im in to hear any info because i have to do this as well very soon

1foxbody

To me the hardest part is putting back all those little bolts for the timing cover because there's not much room.

TarzanCLS

iTrader: (1)

same here. its a pain if you have big hands...

zeta

iTrader: (1)

The hardest part for me was getting off the crank bolt. I used the starter method and was surprised at the easy result.

Make sure to realign the #1 cylinder timing position before removing the loose crank bolt/pulley, very important.

I found that detaching the PS pump from its mounting and moving it up out of the way with all the hoses attached helped make more room to get at things. This will supplement the room made when you remove the side engine mount. Beware, I found that the pump made some strange noises, initially, after it was put back together; however, the noise went away.

I had no problems with the TB cover bolts. I used a 1/4 drive rachet, 10mm socket and extention, took my time and located all the bolts with no problems. It's a tight fit, but doable. Also, clean the covers on the inside and around the rubber gaskets if they are really dirty.

When removing the WP, make sure to cover the crank position sensor with rags to keep the remaining coolant that will drain from getting all over it. Make sure when installing the new WP that the rubber gasket is seated properly in the groove on the WP body, otherwise, a big time leak will present itself. Make sure to torque those small WP bolts to the proper spec, also.

I put a little loctite blue on the timing belt adjuster bolt and torqued to 19 ft-lbs. Also, transfer the auto adjuster collar from the old timing belt adjuster to the new TB adjuster. Inspect for wear, clean and place a little lithium grease.

This worked for me, (since it was my first time) some may think it is excessive, whatever. I marked the old timing belt with a silver sharpie before removing. I placed corresponding marks on the belt and on both timing pullies and at the crank. I transferred the marks to the new timing belt, making sure the exact number of ribs on the belts were counted out. This, in turn, allowed me to visually track where the new belt, upon installation, would line up at the proper place on both cam pullies and at the crank. It went smooth as butter, and the rear cam pulley did not move, which it's known to do. I performed a valve adjustment after the TB install so the plugs were out. This may have helped keep the rear cam pulley from moving accidentally. When you get the new TB belt on and are certian that the timing is OK, turn the crank via a socket wrench a few cycles and verify the timing. This will also help get the TB belt into its natural alignment when the engine is ready to run.

Make sure to burp the coolant when all is said and done, and by this time, if the car starts with no surprises, you know you have done the job correctly, saving yourself a shit load of 'labor' money, and the satisfaction of doing the job yourself.

Flipster23

iTrader: (15)

I need to do this also but no one on the forum in my area knows how to do it...

RooEng

Thanks for the tips. I started to remove the covers just to inspect the belt like the manual says, but like you all said, those bolts hard to get to, so I'll just do it all in one shot this weekend.

Zeta, I like the tip about marking the belt with a sharpie. I'm definitely going to do that along with the other tips. I also used the starter method when I installed the UR crank pulley.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I found it to be cheap insurance because you've got alot going on as your body is contorted, leaning over the front of the car and such trying not to move the camshaft pullies, monitoring the counterclockwise sequence of installing the TB, starting at the crank, then the idler pulley, front camshaft pulley, WP pulley, rear camshaft and then adjusting pulley. Once you get it in place at the crank mark, all the rest should fall into place.

If it (the TB belt) seems a little tight getting it to fall on the sharpie marks on the camshafts, it helps to loosen the Idler pulley bolt. Once the belt falls into the correct position, validated by the marks, then re-torque the Idler pulley bolt and pull the auto tensioner pin. It should be all good.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

once again every thread is different.
i need to order timing belt parts

so lets correct me if im wrong

timing belt
tensioner pulley
water pump
timing idler
valve cover gasket ? are the front and rear the same ?
power steering fluid
coolant fluid

spark plugs and accessory belt are changed recently termostat is new too

what else ?

i want to do valve adjustment too

one question do you have to remove spark plugs to do valve adjustment ?

RooEng

Well, I got it done. By far the hardest part was the cover bolts. Everything else was pretty straight forward. Zeta's tip helped too, as soon as I tried to put the belt around the rear cam gear, it moved back about 30*. The original marks are there but it's hard to see, line up and install the belt all at the same time.

I didn't need any special tools but a serpentine belt tensioner tool would've helped for taking off the alternator belt off and on, a wrench isn't long enough to get any leverage and a ratchet or breaker bar is too fat. Another thing I needed was a 3/8 breaker bar to hold the cam gear, the serpentine tool would've been perfect for that. A 1/2 is too big and a ratchet won't hold the gear in one spot.

The original belt, bearings and waterpump all looked new, but the car is 11 years old and didn't wan't to chance it. I bought a Gates belt kit and the bearings on the idler and tensioner were the same as the OE.

Now I need about 6 of the clips for the splash shield, some were missing, some broke. The side motor mount is bad, and the alternator belt needs to be replaced.

All in all, it wasn't hard, everything went smooth and saved a a lot of money.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

Good to hear. Im planing do mine in next two or three weeks. How many miles do you have ?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

Well done. I'm guessing that the plugs were still in on the rear cylinders?

It really is'nt. A little intimidating, perhaps; however, once one finds the time/place to do it and gets all there ducks in a row parts wise, it's a piece of cake. In addition, the feeling of saving all that money is very rewarding.

YeuEmMaiMai

I am due soon and I am just going to pay the acura dealer to do it.......

fsttyms1

The 2 single hardest parts to this job are the timing belt cover bolts, and the crank bolt. Make sure to keep the cam gears where they are supposed to be. The rear one likes to move. And install the T belt counterclockwise starting at the crank.

ANC297

iTrader: (2)

No you don't have to, but most would advise you remove them...At least one bank of the plugs, so when you rotate the crank it is easier...If the plugs are in when you rotate the crank, pressure will build up and make it difficult to turn.