Do you notice when it's warmer out, that the temp needle is at the same spot it was before you installed the mods? Mine is right back where it was before the install.



I did just realize I need to bypass the coolant lines in the TB now that it's warm out.

 

Mines a tick below where it was before. I added water wetter also.

 

Yeah I added the water wetter too.

On cold days, it's several ticks below.

 

Mine is a touch below where it originally was, and has never went back up. Same on cool and hot days. I have cooling mods and thermoblock installed. No water wetter.

 

that gauge is just a dummy gauge... was running around with my OBD II scanner hooked up and that guage wouldnt move from that spot even if the coolant temp was 20 or 30 degrees different.

 

That can't be right The gauge will read hot if there's air in the system or it's low on coolant(had both happen) & it should rise if the temp rises to indiacate overheating. If it doesn't how would you know if was over heating? I'm sure it's not too accurate though. As with most car gauges.

 

it will rise for over heating, thought you are probably talking 100+ degrees. i am just saying they are not accurate enough to get a true reading on coolant temp. you would need to use either an obdII scanner or a third party sensor and guage.

 

Check it with an OBDII

It should be between 177-187F

 

Humm . . . I did the cooling mods about 2 yrs ago, and the TB last summer . . it dropped with the cooling mods a bit, but not with the TB mod. I suspect just the intake temp is what drops with the TB mod.

Ruf

 

Mine was about a tick mark below where it was before the mod, then the snail went on and it was right back to where it was before when in congested traffic. Since I wired up my fans to a switch to run them constantly in traffic, it's back down again. I'd suggest wiring up the fans if you want it cooler, it helps a great deal.

 

ThinJim how do I get the fans to do that?

 

mines in the same spot before and after... i'm going to do the water wetter hopefully it helps....

 

Are these still available for purchase on King Motorsports? Maybe I'm looking for the wrong stuff.

 

try to follow along...the gauge is not an accurate representation of what temp your engine is seeing ...throw a scan tool on it and im sure you'll see temps closer 180 rather than closer to 197 for stock

 

probably... tstat for prelude and fan switch for civic

 

Appreciate that.

 

It's a pain in the neck but easy, you have to tap into the harness at the fans and run the wires to a switch you put on the dash. I'll take a couple pics later if you'd like to see it and I'll also see what color coded wire I tapped into for the DIYselfers. Helps a lot and beats turning on the AC to get the fans up and running, sortof self defeating using that method.

Hey titand19 lets see some pics of your setup, it's been a while and how is it running?

 

I would say mine has done the same with the warmer temps. I haven't bypassed the TB though.

 

Good info here. I have the fanswitch, but I was debating if it was worth it to get all the other stuff and actually do the entire install.

What really sold me was scalbert's dyno. Everyone still think its worth it?

 

I've sat in 90+ FL sun in traffic with the AC running for 35 minutes last summer Never had a problem. The gauge didn't move.

 

run a couple manifolds up top and put a turbo on them and you'll see your gauge move.

 

which lines on the TB do you bypass, i see 3 lines, i know one is the hose on the top front that goes across the top of the intake manifold, but what's the other, i think it's the one directly underneath that leads off to underneath the intake manifold. any help? silly question i know, but i realized there are 3 lines going to it and forget which ones are coolant.

 

If it's anything like my 99TL, there is one on the left side and one underneath. If you're not sure, pull one, if coolant drips out

 

you want to connect the lines that run to the two fittings outlined in red.

 

Sure about that? #15 is the idle air control valve and that's not taking in coolant.

 

I have a CL-P but i just went and physically checked my car and that is what i have bypassed, here is the image for the CL-P -----

 

i thought B-1-10 is what i should bypass?

 

That's what I've been saying. That is one side, the other is the one sticking out on the bottom (the top red box)

 

nope, he was right, i was wrong. just checked, b-1-10 runs to the purge valve solenoid.

both coolant lines are on the bottom. i think i'll eliminate the barb from the spacer kit and attempt to feed the longer tube straight to the other one on the engine. makes sense? ha.

 

Just do what I said. Run the car for a minute. Shut it down. Pull one of the hoses, if coolant leaks out.

Rinse, lather, repeat.

 

yeah you can either do that or get a connector to connect the two pieces of tubing.

 

dshearon was right, the two hoses on the underside of the TB are the coolant lines, i just put the coolant pipe straight to the engine, a tiny bit more work, but a cleaner engine and better flowing coolant.

one word of advice, dont take off the radiator cap while coolant lines arent hooked up.