All right Steve, I have a deal for you. Since you gave me your boost pulley to try when you were having trouble, I would like to offer you the use of a new blower pulley. You tell me how large you want it to be, to get to 8 PSI, and I will have it made and sent to you to try with your new IC set-up. If you like it, keep it and I'll order another one for myself. If you don't want it for any reason, send it back to me and I'll use it. SF Pulley said on the GP, the difference between the 4" and 3.4" pulley was about 2.5 PSI. I'm not sure what that means for our set-up, but if you figure out what size you think you want, I'll send you one to try.

 

I'm thinking of buying the UR SS pullies. What kind of effect will they have on the supercharger?

 

If you are getting a smaller diameter, underdrive, crankshft pulley it will hurt the superchargers performance.

 

so higher psi will come from a larger or heavier pulley?

 

Larger, yes, heavier, no. The problem with larger is it runs all your accys faster also, which robs power, and might overwork the accys, but yes it will give you more PSI.

 

Thanks Brad, but i don't think that will be necessary. I’ll buy one once we know the size.

As for the size, since we have a smaller blower the size change makes a larger difference in the boost. I’ll come up with the approximate numbers this weekend. Btw, the stock GTP pulley was 3.8" and going to a 3.4" made about that 2.5 psi more boost; sometimes 3.5 depending on conditions.

 

No problem. I'm still amazed you sent me your pulley, and I just can't thank you enough!

Did you get your fuel pressure/boost squared away?

 

I've always wondered if we could reduce the parasitic loss with the proper size pulley combinations. Smaller crank would mean a larger stepper or smaller blower, and in the end is the parasitic loss the same anyways?

 

[QOUTE]Originally posted by ModAddict
The problem with larger is it runs all your accys faster also, which robs power, and might overwork the accys, but yes it will give you more PSI. [/B][/QUOTE]

please for give my "rookie-ness" but where is a good place to find the basics of boost? I would think going to a smaller diameter pulley would spin faster thus increasing boost, but above ModAddict says a larger one will. There must be more there than meets the eye. When I do get an SC I'd like to know what is going on rather than just drop my car off at a shop and say give me more boost!

 

Think of two gears equally sized; gear A and B, both are 2 inches diameter. If gear A turns gear B they both will turn at the same rate; a 1:1 ratio.

Now make gear A bigger; to 4 inches. This gives you a 2:1 ratio and for every single rotation of gear A, gear B will turn twice. In other words, for any given rate of gear A, gear B will turn twice as fast.

Take the converse of this and leave gear A at 2 inches but decrease gear B to 1 inch. This is still a 2:1 ratio with the same results as example two.

Think of the crank pulley as being gear A and the SC pulley being gear B. However, there are intermediate gears in this application but the basics are there. If you really want to learn this, pick up the book “Supercharged” by Corky Bell:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...072117-2610556

 

Not completely but I may have jumped the gun. I do feel that it is/was due to inaccurate readings on the boost gauge. But regardless, it is pulling very strong...

 

 

thanks scalbert

 

OK, I ran some of the numbers on the two pulleys in question. We already know the following sizes of SC drive portion of the alternator pulleys:

3.000 Inch for the Standard Pulley
3.275 Inch for the Higher Boost Pulley

As we discussed, from here it might be better to swap the SC pulley to get even more boost. The standard SC pulley measures about 3.92 inches. The following are estimated sizes and their associated boost levels for the SC pulley.

3.6 Inch should generate about 7.5 PSI boost
3.5 Inch should run it up to about 8.0 PSI boost.

Now all we need to do is send off out SC drive pulley to get copied and a smaller one made. Hopefully just in time for the completion of the intercooler.

 

no hopefully just in time for someone to take there damn car, to the damn track, damn it

 

Even then, we'll be sure to keep them from you.

On the converse, where is your dyno... :pfawk:

 

Sometimes I think I think too much. I've been thinking about this thermostat swap. Reading thru the old posts, the theory is that at higher temps the ECU will pull timing, so if we run a cooler stat, the ecu won't pull timing and won't cause a loss. With a FI motor don't we want to reduce the advance anyways? I know we don't want to pull timing at all rpm, and at this level of boost we're ok, but I'm just saying.....

 

you goto to the track and ill dyno ...deal ?

 

I assure you that will not be a problem at all... just let me know where we are going with it..


Smitty

 

I'll be heading there in October or November; when it cools down some.

Just to be of assistance, local DynoJet locations:

Fordspeed
11735 66th North
Largo, 33773
Tel. 727-549-8255

Hybrid Performance
17604 Hwy 41 N.
Lutz, 33549
Tel. 813-546-3788

Massari - Muller Racing
1984 Sherwood St.
Clearwater 34625
Tel. 813-282-3255

Race Related Inc.
12485 44th St. North
Clearwater 33762
Tel. 727-561-9440

Spec R Tuning
14513 N. Nebraska Ave. Suite 109
Tampa 33613
Tel. 813-910-7235

 

Just FYI, it is not pleasant to drive without the SC enable; the car is dog slow since the only air getting into the motor is through the bypass valve. As you get more on it the vacuum drops closing the valve. So everything works against you.

But it is still drivable if you consider 0 - 60 in about 15 seconds drivable.

But it sounds like you may have alternative transportation planned. If so, Brad has the address and contact information.

 

I'm pulling my blower to install headers soon. I should be able to put it back together without the blower for a week or so to send the pulley in. Unless as Steve says Smitty, you have an alternative?

 

Let me see what I can do... I might be able to get one and everyone will keep theres where it belongs for now... sit tight.

 

So, how are you going to get the SC pulley alone??

 

Pull a string or 2...sit tight

 

Headers go on this weekend,.... you got something else lined up?

 

Got a hat in the bag...

Either Baty will get us one directly from the horses mouth or EssaraK Hout will pull his off since his S/C is not installed yet....

right on schedule...

 

okie-doki

where's my "Smitty Exhaust Mod"?

 

oh brother... you don't give up, do you?...

Did you install the SIM yet?

ALL I need to do is make the measurements and call him, then we are in business... have not had the time yet, hopefully this week I can get it done.

 

just bustin' your chops :P

No need for the sim until the cut-out's in. I'll take some measurements while I'm under there this weekend.

 

That works... I will snap some pics with a ruler next to the piping

We will compare notes:....this weekend...

 

Just FYI, the shop hasn't started yet on the base plate for the IC. I do hope it will be this week but when it comes to CNC work, we are minnows...

I will run by there Friday to get a status check.

 

Essarack is sending the polished pulley to me and then off to Florida it goes........ I should have it soon and in the mail by mid next week......

 

Two months ago I contacted Payne Tech and gave them my standard boost pulley while I was trying Steve's high boost pulley. They took the measurements, sent it back to me, and told me they would need a deposit to get one made, and would take about two weeks. I told them I'd let them know what I wanted and would give them a deposit at that time. I never called them back. Today, they called to tell me my pulley was ready.

I'll see what they made up tomorow, and if it looks right, I'll probably go ahead and take it. This is a stepper pulley that goes on the alternator, not the blower pulley.

 

Oh O.... going to push the envelope so early...

P.S. just got off the phone with the exhaust guy... he is overnighting the 22 degee flange and assembly so I can test fit it this weekend.... the end link flanges will not be welded on since there might be fitment issues....he has no problem with doing the bung.. He just needs the thread and size...(I think it is 18mm)...

He expects measurements by the end of this weekend... It will take about 1 week for him to put together... he estimates 6 feet of electrical wiring so we can get 12V from the cig lighter on a 30amp fuse... plus that is where the switch for the dump will be... but we need to figure out where we want to hide it or have it.

this is going to be bitchin

 

I will not put the Max pulley on untill I have some sort of engine management or a intercooled intake charge.

I will however, install the Smitty Exhaust Mod, as soon as I get it. :P

 

The Max Boost Stepper Pulley is made of lightweight aluminum, and incorporates a unique groove design to eliminate belt slippage at high boost, track tested at 12 psi on a Paxton blown NSX. Estimated boost on a Comptech S/C kit, for the Acura 3.2 CLS/TLS is 8 psi. Actual boost numbers could vary from car to car. Not recommended without an intercooler, such as the "Type S/C"

 

 

The Headers are on and they leaned out my pig pretty well! It's allmost impossible to go below 10:1 now, and when it does, it just bumps it and then heads back up as the RPM's go up. I'm seing high 10's and low 11's, and that really wakes this blower car up!!

I have started the install of the Type S/C intercooler,..... I took the IMRC control off and put it up on the shelf.

 

Cool and congrats; the headers are wonderful and definitely open up the top end. It is so nice pulling to redline without the feel of acceleration letting up. As expected, the greater exhaust scavenging is leaning it out a bit, but what is the boost level doing?? Any changes there??

Dang, I haven't even got the first base plate made and you are already getting prepared.