So you wouldn't mind going by so they can see under the hood.

 

The "Scalbert IC" is not transmition specific,..

 

<--------- confused

 

Why, about what??

 

BTW, here is a quick drawing showing the flow concept of the system. This is taken from the book "Supercharged" by Corky Bell, Bently Publishers, 2001

 

It would be a little tough at the current moment... but sure... in the future!

 

I might have a chance at the dyno this Saturday. I'm going with my son, and his Civic, with a local group from Club SI,.....but one thing I can tell you,.....with what you have here,....it's all academic.

 

... Oh man, I was not thinking when I typed that.... Lets make it look better... "lets beat Batey and his boys to the table"...LOL..

I will see what I can schedule for a DYNO this week.. I am going to have to get this dump overnighted so I can put the test pipe on and make a run with it on and with it off too.. I am awaiting Jens response tomorrow which will dictate the piping.


Smitty

 

Nah.......well, maybe

I think your design is going to be killer! I am very excited to see how everything turns out for both of us. We have talked about this for a while...my first thoughts were to turn the S/C 180 degrees on the jack-shaft and try for some kind of front mount....that has since evolved into leaving the S/C the way it is and working around it since the engine compartment has quite a bit of room for what we would like to do.

Dean

 

Air horns,...

 

forgot this part....

Our's will not be transmission specific either, but we do not have a S/C'd 6Speeder here locally to look at so we will work on the Auto that is readily available.

 

I looked at turning it on the jack-shaft, but I only wanted it 20-30 degrees, not the 60 it would have to be w/o re-drilling it. Are you changing the blower outlet?

 

Yea, I had been mulling this over for some time trying to determine the best method as there are several routes which could be taken. I'm still unsure which way is best but unfortunately it is cost prohibited to try out various systems. In the end we just need to make an educated guess.

 

That would be great!!!

 

Thanks....

 

That would also be wonderful...

 

With the cover off that area, it should look pretty cool!!!

 

Nope, we are just going to leave it be and work around it.

scalbert,

Exactly--we are all kind of shooting in the dark on uncharted territory, but I think we both have good ideas on how to handle it.

Dean

 

you guys are way too smart...

 

I sent the TB off to King Motorsports today, they are expecting it tomorrow. I also sent an email to Turbonetics even though, after several unanswered phone calls, the address they gave me was invalid. So I tried a generic sales@turboneticsinc.com and it hasn’t come back yet. I’ll call later to verify that this was correct.

I did think of something else though. If this new manifold pans out all of my work on polishing the stock intake manifold will have gone to waste. Any NA guys want to swap manifolds??

 

i would

 

I'm your huckleberry!

 

I wonder if there would be a market for Type-S manifold/actuator assemblies.

 

$hit, I polished the front one before I put the charger on.. and I can do the rear without a problem.. That is, when the appropraite time to pull them off the car comes along..

 

Please tally up one more who wants an IC and WILL pay for it when availible. However, I won't be able to use an IC setup that requires my intake mantifold to be changed
DeansblackCLS: Does the prototype IC that you're working on designing require modification to the intake mantifold? Thanks

 

Matt got in first. If this works out and the new one is installed and running; I'll ship you my stock manifold.

 

There actually might be a small market for the guys doing special work.

 

But I was even going to let you install it in my car the next time you were in the raleigh area...

 

Well in that case...

 

Not at all. We are probably going to use a Vortech aftercooler setup and make custom mandrel piping for it. There seems to be some room between the S/C and the back of the engine compartment and we have come up with an idea of how to get one in there.

 

This is what I originally had planned as there is plenty of open area available. I haven't excluded this idea completely and am waiting on mechanical drawings to see if it can fit. About the only Vortech unit I know of which would possibly fit and not require some serious messing with tube bends is the following:



Having the inlet and outlet on the same side might provide the necessary room with minimal bends.

Obviously I am heading in two different directions here but two which can certainly be followed for the time being. The one thing that caused me to hesitate somewhat with the Vortech units was their price. In most cases the CAC its self was in the $1200 range, unless you can get it cheaper. Add to this the radiator, plumbing, pump and reservoir and it would be well over $1500. But it is still a direction I would like to look at once I get the drawings.

 

scalbert,

Yup, thats the Aftercooler design we are looking into. (We are a WD for Vortech too--) The pricing may be close what you posted up there ~ $12-1500, but we are definately trying to get it down a bit before I go on here and spout off at the fingers.

Dean

 

What benefits would this yield?

 

An aftercooler will cool down the boost charge and allow for more boost to be run without detonation. More boost=more power

 

If it looks like this will fit and if the new manifold price is about the same or more, the logical choice will be the Vortech unit. Once I have the mechanical drawings I'll do up a cardboard mock-up unit and test fit that.

If that works I might send ya another fax...

But I still like my manifold design and am hoping the price comes in reasonable.

 

Doesn't Vortech use Spearco units. If so, are these the drawings you're looking for? http://www.racetep.com/atoliq.html

 

I'm not sure if they are but I did get the drawings emailed to me this morning. It is close in dimensions to the 2-231 in the B configuration. It appears that this will fit but with some limitations.

The tubes will need to have very tight bends and will be touching possibly requiring a slight narrowing. The MAP will need a new home along with the possible (which I really think is the case) blocking of the center chamber. Also, the list price on the CAC its self is just shy of $1100, so I wasn't too far off. But this price of $615 is certainly more attractive.

I haven't heard from Turbonetics yet but will keep trying. I also just dropped a note to Top-End Performance about their stock unit or doing an off shoot of it in a custom application.

 

Looks like this Saturday's dyno session is a go for the TL-S. If you still want the actuator on/off dynos, I've got two pulls, so I can get it done. Do you want the stock pulley, or the 6# pulley?

If Turbonics, (Spearco), don't want to do the manifold, you could use the 2-231, less one of the "side tank/outlets, and have the manifold "box" fabbed up and attached to the custom 2-231. It seems to me, the "Scalbert IC" is a realatively simple project, that has got to be the cleanest pathway from the blower outlet, to the injector base.

 

Here's a new one,....

Dont know if anyone is Interested, I live in Fl. and Super Charger and intake are very hot all the time. You can use alot of different things to build it, heres how I did it. 1: Remove vacumm canister on back of fire wall, connect vacumm lines to get rid of xtra line. 2: Tear bracket off that held cannister on and make a hole that will fit a 3/4 in. heater hose through fire wall. Line hole along side of AC and away from gas pedal. HOLE PLACEMENT IS IMPORTANT. 3: You need to make a collector for AC vent (drivers feet). I made mine from a kind of firm card board paper (easy to form).It needs to be 1 1/2 in. tall on sides and 1 5/8 in. wide and 7 in. long. It is sealed on back and the front goes down 4in. and then mold end to a circle that will fit around the heater hose. After I had the basic shape I covered the whole thing with silver duct tape (its like aluminum foil) that made it harder and keep its shape better, then make final adjustments. 5: Paint collector black to blend in. 6: Use epoxy to cover inside and out to add strength.(let dry) 7: Slide heater hose into collector circle and seal, other end goes through fire wall. You can trim vent hole a little if you want. 8: Place collector box to vent hole covering as much as possible. Use a couple screws going through collctor into plastic AC vent, seal best as possible. Make sure hose is not in way of pedal. 9: Seal off passenger feet vent. 10: Cut hole in Comptech icebox for heater hose, slide hose in about 1/2 in., seal around hose for icebox and fire wall on both sides. DONE!!!! You can run air on head/feet to keep it cooler,(air on reciculating), or if your gonna race, crank air down and fan up and air on feet only. Just before you take off, push AC button in, leaving fan on high. This does help cool off Super Charger and air going in. Sorry so long. It costs about $5 and takes about 3 hours. You can dress it up under the hood with some braided line. Again you can use anything to make it, but thats the basic ideal and how I did it. (2000 Accord Coupe EX v6)

BTW, this is not me, I found it on another forum.

 

Already working on this...

I'm just waiting on the price for the 2-231 B without the outlet end tank from Top-End Performance.

I've got the address the EGR issue first though; which I'll make a quick blocking plate and wiring it up so as not to set a DTC. I should be able to work on this later this week baring an unseen issue with the girls, they are beginning to sleep more and regularly now.

I also go the TB back but haven’t re-installed it, been kinda busy. I’ll post on this in a new thread.