I just got home from the dealership, but they called me today to tell me my sub-frame bolts needed to be re-torqued. This was causing my car to "clunk" at low speeds. This possibly caused the seat to feel like it was moving. When I drove it home in the rain at about 35mph it felt good, and when I was able to get to higher speeds it felt a lot better, and there was no high pitched belt squeal at higher rpm levels.

Anyway, they also told me I needed new tires, but they only had two in stock. I declined even before getting a price, my tires are not even near the wear bar on the tires, so I will hold out, considering I only have 23k on my tires right now.

I was not overly happy with the person who took my credit card from me at the dealership. They would not accept it because I didn't sign it, even though I offered my license with signature and SS card with sig as well. Maybe she was just doing her job, but now if it is lost I could end up with no money left.

The salesman who sold me my car bought my used truck I traded into the dealer, he said he kept it for a year and then sold it for 1k more than what I got as a trade. Not that I care about the extra money, but it was kinda nice seeing someone else use it for it's purpose.

 

Maybe they forgot to tighten the sub frame bolts.

 

Ive seen sub-frame bolts become loose....err not loose just a turn or so out of spec, and cause noises. it's somewhat common but not so on CL's. Fairly common on MDX's and RL's. But I have seen it happen on TL's an CL's and all cars. All we do is go under there w/ an impact gun and go over all the subframe bolts. U'd be surprised on how much u can get outta them. But u also gotta know how long to lay the gun on them w/o snapping them.

 

You should be using a torque wrench rather than "laying a gun on them"

 

My thinkin' exactly but my dad works for chrysler and he's never used a torque wrench.

He says no mechanic does.

 

Yes an that is part of the problem with shoddy repairs. Even some of the better tire stores are catching on to the value of properly torquing lug nuts. America's/Discount does. I'm not saying all fasterners need to be but certain ones should be torqued to spec.

 

when u do this shit everyday u u know what to use a torque wrench on and what to use a gun on. For example if u are tightening cylinder head bolts...USE A TORQUE WRENCH, tightening a sub-frame...IMPACT GUN!!!

And for dgracer...it's not a shoddy repair. It's actually the only way to correct the problem that is being described. If we actually torqued them to spec, they'd still make clunking noises. And as for lug nuts...I use a torque stick which has been tested multiple times for the correct torque. I'm not tryin to start a fight here but u should do some more research before correcting others actions

 

I am happy with the repairs as I drove the car a couple hundred miles today and it felt better than it has since I had the problem, seems the gears are smoother getting into, or maybe I am changing because I dont have that annoying clunking noise.