spongy clutch, +leak NEED HELP!!!
#1
spongy clutch, +leak NEED HELP!!!
Okay guys I havn't found many results via searching but there is a drop in fluid level in my clutch fluid reservoir. There is fluid around the tranny casing.
I'm thinking it's the slave cylinder as the master cylinder is only a few months old. Anyone with similar experience?
Secondly, does anyone have a plastic rubber thing + a plastic lid inside their clutch fluid reservoir or do you just have the reservoir and the cap. I've dropped the plastic lid + rubber thing inside the engine bay but don't really see a necessary purpose for it. I don't really feel like paying $15 for it either =/
I'm thinking it's the slave cylinder as the master cylinder is only a few months old. Anyone with similar experience?
Secondly, does anyone have a plastic rubber thing + a plastic lid inside their clutch fluid reservoir or do you just have the reservoir and the cap. I've dropped the plastic lid + rubber thing inside the engine bay but don't really see a necessary purpose for it. I don't really feel like paying $15 for it either =/
#2
Ultra Negro
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if im not mistaken that is what helps keep pressure by making a seal for the master cylinder, buy the damn top already or keep losing fluid and possibly break something.
#5
03 Boosted CLS
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yes i have the rubber nipped looking thing don't know what its used for either. Where is the fluid on the tranny case? there is one metal line going from the slave cylinder to the clutch dampener if it is still installed. pump the clutch a few times then follow the line with your hand and see if there is brake fluid anywhere on it. if its the line its on like 10 from acura. then there is one going from the clutch dampener to the master cylinder. also check where it attaches to the Slave cylinder make sure its tight.
#6
It's leaking so slow, (1 drop per day or something) that I couldn't find where the source of the leak was... But today, all the fluid just disappeared as I was returning home from work. I found the rubber/plastic thing inside the engine bay so that's not a problem anymore. It's too cold to work on the car (32 degrees with no garage, only a driveway) So it looks like I will get a new slave cylinder since it isn't too pricy and ask the shop to check for leaks.
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#8
Senior Moderator
Where about is it leaking?
#9
Senior Moderator
If its by #9 then odds are its the slave. I have had a few go bad on hondas in the past.
#10
So I started bleeding the brakes and I find massive air bubbles...
(one person pump clutch and depress all the way down, the other turns bleeder screw on) and after a while we figured we werent going anywhere since the clutch stays stuck on the bottom.. so we take a break. we go back to try again and now the fluid wont even come out at all. The fluid was topped off at all times with the cap on.
Can anyone help me figure this out? I can't even put the car in gear anymore and I'd really like to not have to call a tow truck and get it to a shop.
(one person pump clutch and depress all the way down, the other turns bleeder screw on) and after a while we figured we werent going anywhere since the clutch stays stuck on the bottom.. so we take a break. we go back to try again and now the fluid wont even come out at all. The fluid was topped off at all times with the cap on.
Can anyone help me figure this out? I can't even put the car in gear anymore and I'd really like to not have to call a tow truck and get it to a shop.
#12
correct me if im wrong, but which is the right way to bleed a clutch since i'm 100% sure I'm doing it wrong (no fluid coming out at all, but i hear air)
1) depress clutch
2) loosen bleeder valve
3) pull clutch up
4) tighten valve
or is it
1) depress clutch
2) loosen bleeder valve
3) tighten valve
4) pull clutch up
1) depress clutch
2) loosen bleeder valve
3) pull clutch up
4) tighten valve
or is it
1) depress clutch
2) loosen bleeder valve
3) tighten valve
4) pull clutch up
#13
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
correct me if im wrong, but which is the right way to bleed a clutch since i'm 100% sure I'm doing it wrong (no fluid coming out at all, but i hear air)
1) depress clutch
2) loosen bleeder valve
3) pull clutch up
4) tighten valve
or is it
1) depress clutch
2) loosen bleeder valve
3) tighten valve
4) pull clutch up
1) depress clutch
2) loosen bleeder valve
3) pull clutch up
4) tighten valve
or is it
1) depress clutch
2) loosen bleeder valve
3) tighten valve
4) pull clutch up
otherwise you will just suck the air right back into it, if tightened afterwards
also you have to do it a couple of times before you will actually start getting fluid out (gotta "purge" the air out first)
Last edited by friesm2000; 01-15-2010 at 05:56 PM.
#14
Okay so, after realizing that is too much air in the system to even purge it. I went ahead and bought a hand vaccum bleeder.
After draining and bleeding the system. (clutch pedal up, vacc'd all fluid until no air (took forever)
And the pedal still sinks straight down to the ground!!!
After draining and bleeding the system. (clutch pedal up, vacc'd all fluid until no air (took forever)
And the pedal still sinks straight down to the ground!!!
#15
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
try again with the manual bleeding, cause there may be some air pockets left (does not take much air to give a shitty pedal)
but you may also have a bad master cylinder too, cause normally it is best to replace them in sets, cause it is such a small system, and debris can easily travel from one to the other (doing the rubber hose does not hurt ethier)
but you may also have a bad master cylinder too, cause normally it is best to replace them in sets, cause it is such a small system, and debris can easily travel from one to the other (doing the rubber hose does not hurt ethier)
Last edited by friesm2000; 01-16-2010 at 01:24 PM.
#17
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
but yeah as i said before try manually bleeding it some more (while making sure the reservoir never goes empty)
also make sure all the line fittings are snug too, otherwise air could potentaly get in or a leak happens
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