Spark plugs
#1
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Spark plugs
hi all. i am replacing my spark plugs in my 03 cl type s. ngk iridium ix part #zfr6fix-11 6441. what is the torque spec(im seeing 13,18,20/lbs/ft) and is this pre gapped?
and is it necessary to put on anti seize? specs online for this product says "Features superior anti-corrosion and anti-seizing properties"
and is it necessary to put on anti seize? specs online for this product says "Features superior anti-corrosion and anti-seizing properties"
Last edited by adlx21; 06-05-2012 at 07:44 PM.
#2
hey i just ordered a set for mine, i always tighten the plugs to hand tight, not like a gorilla strength but just snug and from what i understand they are already gapped properly....
iridium plugs, if you touch the gap you might mess up the iridium tip
good luck!!!
mike
iridium plugs, if you touch the gap you might mess up the iridium tip
good luck!!!
mike
#3
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nevermind, found the torque spec to be 13lbs/ft via owners manual. anyone with knowledge if i need to gap the plugs i bought? manual says it should be 1.1mm gap.
#4
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hey i just ordered a set for mine, i always tighten the plugs to hand tight, not like a gorilla strength but just snug and from what i understand they are already gapped properly....
iridium plugs, if you touch the gap you might mess up the iridium tip
good luck!!!
mike
iridium plugs, if you touch the gap you might mess up the iridium tip
good luck!!!
mike
#5
to be honest, i jsut picked my 03 cls6 up 10 days ago, and i am awaiting a whole truck load of stuff lol....but supposedly these motors dont really kill plugs, so as soon as they get here i will pop them in and post up!!
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#8
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
It have never been done then heck yes only took me about 45 mins tops and I had never done it. The fronts are easy the rears are too just a pain. Should replace every 60000 miles from what I've read on here
#10
Racer
#12
Racer
More than likely, the engine Air Filter and the Cabin Air-filters were never change... same story for the brake fluid too...then again, with 20 grand (yes, $20,000) across two accidents, I would assume that the front end may have been entirely replaced at least once between 2005 and 2007.
#15
Unregistered Member
iTrader: (2)
You over tightened the spark plug. This causes the threading in the engine to strip and throw a CEL. Unfortunately, the only way to fix it is to replace the entire engine. I'm jk, it's probably a misfire code. You may have dropped a coilpack, which is causing a improper spark. Get the code read first step.
#16
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (10)
More than likely, the engine Air Filter and the Cabin Air-filters were never change... same story for the brake fluid too...then again, with 20 grand (yes, $20,000) across two accidents, I would assume that the front end may have been entirely replaced at least once between 2005 and 2007.
Pull the code and go from there.
Last edited by aznboi2424; 06-07-2012 at 01:34 PM.
#17
Racer
I will do the 105k in about a month and a half - two months, the Oil and Brake fluid has been changed very recently. The 105k in my case will be oil and oil filter, cabin air filter, ATF (does the trans have a filter as well?) , spark plugs, water pump, timing belt, new coolant, ac checkup (mine is acting funny), tires (+ possibly wheels) and the flex pipe (if someone gives me the OEM exhaust pipe dimensions).
#18
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so... the engine light all of a sudden turned off. I still went ahead and got it checked out. Codes were saying all 6 were misfiring... he then proceeded to say it might have been pending(the codes)? I mean, its driving fine, so far. What I'M afraid of is that since everything drives fine and the engine light is off, could the codes still read problems EVEN if the light is off.
anyone experienced this before?
anyone experienced this before?
#19
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (10)
Since the light is off, the problem is probably gone. Just clear the codes and hope the light doesn't come back on anymore.
The reason the codes were still there even though the light was off is because the ECU stores the codes, even if the problem doesn't exist anymore.
The reason the codes were still there even though the light was off is because the ECU stores the codes, even if the problem doesn't exist anymore.
#21
Racer
Any recommendations as to where I could get the OE NGK Lazer Iridium plugs online? I find it cheaper to buy the parts and just have the mechanic/family install em.
#22
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I believe the mechanic said he reset it. But instead of re checking the codes, he just said go drive it and see if the engine light comes back. so far it hasn't
Last edited by adlx21; 06-08-2012 at 12:06 AM.
#25
Racer
I advanced through swarms of enemies to phase 3 of the plan, then I had to make a strategic retreat when my squad of tools were no match for the ignition coil screws.
I didn't have the right bit to open it and I'd rather have my ignition coils still operate after I swap em. I also noticed that there is a "something something AC Bypass" attached to the block covering 2 of the plugs closest to the driver side of the car. For my curiosity, anyone know what this does or does anyone have it?
I didn't have the right bit to open it and I'd rather have my ignition coils still operate after I swap em. I also noticed that there is a "something something AC Bypass" attached to the block covering 2 of the plugs closest to the driver side of the car. For my curiosity, anyone know what this does or does anyone have it?
#26
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
I advanced through swarms of enemies to phase 3 of the plan, then I had to make a strategic retreat when my squad of tools were no match for the ignition coil screws.
I didn't have the right bit to open it and I'd rather have my ignition coils still operate after I swap em. I also noticed that there is a "something something AC Bypass" attached to the block covering 2 of the plugs closest to the driver side of the car. For my curiosity, anyone know what this does or does anyone have it?
I didn't have the right bit to open it and I'd rather have my ignition coils still operate after I swap em. I also noticed that there is a "something something AC Bypass" attached to the block covering 2 of the plugs closest to the driver side of the car. For my curiosity, anyone know what this does or does anyone have it?
#27
Racer
#30
Racer
Can someone please tell me what bits I need to to take off the ignition coils and what the bolts are for that thing that covers the 2 rear driver side plugs?
I've gone to my car 3 times now in attempt to take off the friggin plugs but NONE of my stepdads tools work. (3/8s heads with no 3/8 ratchet, all too small or too big, 1/4" ratchet with bits, but they are all wrong for the job).
I want to know what tools I have to buy because I am sick and tired of running to and from the car trying to find the "perfect" bit.
I've gone to my car 3 times now in attempt to take off the friggin plugs but NONE of my stepdads tools work. (3/8s heads with no 3/8 ratchet, all too small or too big, 1/4" ratchet with bits, but they are all wrong for the job).
I want to know what tools I have to buy because I am sick and tired of running to and from the car trying to find the "perfect" bit.
#31
Giant Blue Car
hey i just ordered a set for mine, i always tighten the plugs to hand tight, not like a gorilla strength but just snug and from what i understand they are already gapped properly....
iridium plugs, if you touch the gap you might mess up the iridium tip
good luck!!!
mike
iridium plugs, if you touch the gap you might mess up the iridium tip
good luck!!!
mike
I just bought some NGK IX Iridium plugs since I have no clue when they were last changed/checked; I bought my car when it had 114,000 miles.
I felt pretty dumb today when I thought I would just go and pull one out real quick to look at it. I propped open the hood with my wooden stick (the hood struts died a while back), I was ready with my ratchet and looked down at the engine... There's a F'n cover in the way! Should've known nothing would be easily accessible with this car LOL!
So I said F' it, shut the hood, stuck my stick back in the trunk, and went to work. Do those covers clip on somehow or is it screwed/bolted down?
Goes to show how much I've studied the engine compartment.
#32
Racer
Exactly, DON'T gap them! If you break that Iridium center electrode you won't be able to return them...
I just bought some NGK IX Iridium plugs since I have no clue when they were last changed/checked; I bought my car when it had 114,000 miles.
I felt pretty dumb today when I thought I would just go and pull one out real quick to look at it. I propped open the hood with my wooden stick (the hood struts died a while back), I was ready with my ratchet and looked down at the engine... There's a F'n cover in the way! Should've known nothing would be easily accessible with this car LOL!
So I said F' it, shut the hood, stuck my stick back in the trunk, and went to work. Do those covers clip on somehow or is it screwed/bolted down?
Goes to show how much I've studied the engine compartment.
I just bought some NGK IX Iridium plugs since I have no clue when they were last changed/checked; I bought my car when it had 114,000 miles.
I felt pretty dumb today when I thought I would just go and pull one out real quick to look at it. I propped open the hood with my wooden stick (the hood struts died a while back), I was ready with my ratchet and looked down at the engine... There's a F'n cover in the way! Should've known nothing would be easily accessible with this car LOL!
So I said F' it, shut the hood, stuck my stick back in the trunk, and went to work. Do those covers clip on somehow or is it screwed/bolted down?
Goes to show how much I've studied the engine compartment.
The 3.2 VTEC cover with the acura logo has 3 pushy-clippy things, two you turn with a flat blade screwdriver (look like giant plastic screws) and a third is a black button above the alternator. I just undo the two screws (1/4 or 1/2 turn) and pull towards the bumper and up (cant pull up because there is a bit of a lip that goes under the engine block cover).
You are going to run into the problem with the ignition coils because they dont take a bolt that you can ratchet off, it looks like it takes a hex bit that you would put on a normal screwdriver. Can't help you much further than this because those fucking bolts are where I am stuck.
* Pardon me French.
#33
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Pushy-clippy things
Youll need to take the main engine cover off as well to access the rear plugs. There are 4(?) 10mm bolts holding them on.
I forget what size the hex bolts are for the coil packs. When you do get them out, DO NOT drop the coil packs. I also like to put them back into the cylinder they came out of, but thats probably not necessary.
Last edited by civicdrivr; 06-20-2012 at 03:28 PM.
#34
Racer
Pushy-clippy things
Youll need to take the main engine cover off as well to access the rear plugs. There are 4(?) 10mm bolts holding them on.
I forget what size the hex bolts are for the coil packs. When you do get them out, DO NOT drop the coil packs. I also like to put them back into the cylinder they came out of, but thats probably not necessary.
EDIT - FORGOT TO ADDRESS THE QUOTE!
Yes, pushy-clippy things is what they are to be called henceforth.
#35
Giant Blue Car
You've come almost as far as me!
The 3.2 VTEC cover with the acura logo has 3 pushy-clippy things, two you turn with a flat blade screwdriver (look like giant plastic screws) and a third is a black button above the alternator. I just undo the two screws (1/4 or 1/2 turn) and pull towards the bumper and up (cant pull up because there is a bit of a lip that goes under the engine block cover).
You are going to run into the problem with the ignition coils because they dont take a bolt that you can ratchet off, it looks like it takes a hex bit that you would put on a normal screwdriver. Can't help you much further than this because those fucking bolts are where I am stuck.
* Pardon me French.
The 3.2 VTEC cover with the acura logo has 3 pushy-clippy things, two you turn with a flat blade screwdriver (look like giant plastic screws) and a third is a black button above the alternator. I just undo the two screws (1/4 or 1/2 turn) and pull towards the bumper and up (cant pull up because there is a bit of a lip that goes under the engine block cover).
You are going to run into the problem with the ignition coils because they dont take a bolt that you can ratchet off, it looks like it takes a hex bit that you would put on a normal screwdriver. Can't help you much further than this because those fucking bolts are where I am stuck.
* Pardon me French.
#37
Racer
I might get that, a cordless drill, 22pc 1/4" ratchet set, 1/2'' 275lb torque wrench, spark plug kit, a 1/2" to 1/4" adapter + 3, 6 and 12" extensions for the 1/4"... that sound good for working on cars?
#38
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Thats the bare minimum.
Most importantly, if your car is in a northern climate, some form of penetrating lube, a torch, and patience.
Last edited by civicdrivr; 06-20-2012 at 03:50 PM.
#40
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Thats very possible, but I honestly don't remember.