hi all. i am replacing my spark plugs in my 03 cl type s. ngk iridium ix part #zfr6fix-11 6441. what is the torque spec(im seeing 13,18,20/lbs/ft) and is this pre gapped?

and is it necessary to put on anti seize? specs online for this product says "Features superior anti-corrosion and anti-seizing properties"

 

hey i just ordered a set for mine, i always tighten the plugs to hand tight, not like a gorilla strength but just snug and from what i understand they are already gapped properly....
iridium plugs, if you touch the gap you might mess up the iridium tip

good luck!!!

mike

 

nevermind, found the torque spec to be 13lbs/ft via owners manual. anyone with knowledge if i need to gap the plugs i bought? manual says it should be 1.1mm gap.

 

AH hows yours holding up? any difference?

 

to be honest, i jsut picked my 03 cls6 up 10 days ago, and i am awaiting a whole truck load of stuff lol....but supposedly these motors dont really kill plugs, so as soon as they get here i will pop them in and post up!!

 

I just did mine after 90000 miles and they were black. I felt a slight difference and a slight increase in gas mileage. I tightened mine down to 13lb ft

 

Do you recon that after 144k miles installing new spark plugs would be a good investment?

 

It have never been done then heck yes only took me about 45 mins tops and I had never done it. The fronts are easy the rears are too just a pain. Should replace every 60000 miles from what I've read on here

 

Uh spark plugs are replaced as part of the 105k major service.

 

If I decide to keep the CL past summer, I will do the 105k, and get new tires, a CAI and headers... probably going to be looking at close to $2k in work...

 

Are you on the original timing belt and water pump with 144k?

 

More than likely, the engine Air Filter and the Cabin Air-filters were never change... same story for the brake fluid too...then again, with 20 grand (yes, $20,000) across two accidents, I would assume that the front end may have been entirely replaced at least once between 2005 and 2007.

 

That's what the book said but most recommend replacing every 60000 miles with the ngk iridium ix's

 

AH just did my spark plugs.. the engine light is now on.. what might be the problem?

 

You over tightened the spark plug. This causes the threading in the engine to strip and throw a CEL. Unfortunately, the only way to fix it is to replace the entire engine. I'm jk, it's probably a misfire code. You may have dropped a coilpack, which is causing a improper spark. Get the code read first step.

 

Well you could at least start changing the filters and fluids now. They don't cost too much and would be a nice selling point if you were to sell the car.

Oh gotcha, yea the NGK iridium IX plugs won't last as long as the OE NGK Lazer Platnium or Lazer Iridium plugs. If you choose those Lazer plugs then they could last till another 105k service.

Pull the code and go from there.

 

I will do the 105k in about a month and a half - two months, the Oil and Brake fluid has been changed very recently. The 105k in my case will be oil and oil filter, cabin air filter, ATF (does the trans have a filter as well?) , spark plugs, water pump, timing belt, new coolant, ac checkup (mine is acting funny), tires (+ possibly wheels) and the flex pipe (if someone gives me the OEM exhaust pipe dimensions).

 

so... the engine light all of a sudden turned off. I still went ahead and got it checked out. Codes were saying all 6 were misfiring... he then proceeded to say it might have been pending(the codes)? I mean, its driving fine, so far. What I'M afraid of is that since everything drives fine and the engine light is off, could the codes still read problems EVEN if the light is off.

anyone experienced this before?

 

Since the light is off, the problem is probably gone. Just clear the codes and hope the light doesn't come back on anymore.
The reason the codes were still there even though the light was off is because the ECU stores the codes, even if the problem doesn't exist anymore.

 

Reset the ECU, and it will clear the codes and reset the computer. It was probably just a temporary misfire.

In the passenger side fusebox, pull the clock backup fuse for 5 secs. If the code comes back, you have a problem.

 

Any recommendations as to where I could get the OE NGK Lazer Iridium plugs online? I find it cheaper to buy the parts and just have the mechanic/family install em.

 

I believe the mechanic said he reset it. But instead of re checking the codes, he just said go drive it and see if the engine light comes back. so far it hasn't

 

Well, I'm going to tackle the spark plugs right now... lets see what I break while I'm at it. (Get yer tomatoes ready!)

 

Fronts are easy rears are a bit of a pain but not to bad

 

I advanced through swarms of enemies to phase 3 of the plan, then I had to make a strategic retreat when my squad of tools were no match for the ignition coil screws.

I didn't have the right bit to open it and I'd rather have my ignition coils still operate after I swap em. I also noticed that there is a "something something AC Bypass" attached to the block covering 2 of the plugs closest to the driver side of the car. For my curiosity, anyone know what this does or does anyone have it?

 

Yeah my car had a hose that ran over top of them too. I just unscrewed the mounting bracket and lifted the hose up then screwed it back in when I was done

 

That's the plan, I was just wondering what that was...

 

I don't remember what it was or I didn't take the time to figure out what it was

 

Lol, spark plugs.

Dummies, diesels don't have spark plugs!

Wow....

 

Can someone please tell me what bits I need to to take off the ignition coils and what the bolts are for that thing that covers the 2 rear driver side plugs?

I've gone to my car 3 times now in attempt to take off the friggin plugs but NONE of my stepdads tools work. (3/8s heads with no 3/8 ratchet, all too small or too big, 1/4" ratchet with bits, but they are all wrong for the job).

I want to know what tools I have to buy because I am sick and tired of running to and from the car trying to find the "perfect" bit.

 

Exactly, DON'T gap them! If you break that Iridium center electrode you won't be able to return them...

I just bought some NGK IX Iridium plugs since I have no clue when they were last changed/checked; I bought my car when it had 114,000 miles.

I felt pretty dumb today when I thought I would just go and pull one out real quick to look at it. I propped open the hood with my wooden stick (the hood struts died a while back), I was ready with my ratchet and looked down at the engine... There's a F'n cover in the way! Should've known nothing would be easily accessible with this car LOL!

So I said F' it, shut the hood, stuck my stick back in the trunk, and went to work. Do those covers clip on somehow or is it screwed/bolted down?

Goes to show how much I've studied the engine compartment.

 

You've come almost as far as me!

The 3.2 VTEC cover with the acura logo has 3 pushy-clippy things, two you turn with a flat blade screwdriver (look like giant plastic screws) and a third is a black button above the alternator. I just undo the two screws (1/4 or 1/2 turn) and pull towards the bumper and up (cant pull up because there is a bit of a lip that goes under the engine block cover).

You are going to run into the problem with the ignition coils because they dont take a bolt that you can ratchet off, it looks like it takes a hex bit that you would put on a normal screwdriver. Can't help you much further than this because those fucking bolts are where I am stuck.

* Pardon me French.

 

Pushy-clippy things

Youll need to take the main engine cover off as well to access the rear plugs. There are 4(?) 10mm bolts holding them on.

I forget what size the hex bolts are for the coil packs. When you do get them out, DO NOT drop the coil packs. I also like to put them back into the cylinder they came out of, but thats probably not necessary.

 

Civic, for a derp with 0 tools (me), what are the bare basics you would recommend for working on the CL? I feel like burning money I don't have...

EDIT - FORGOT TO ADDRESS THE QUOTE!

Yes, pushy-clippy things is what they are to be called henceforth.

 

LOL! I bought a bit set that has about every type of bit: flathead, phillips, torx, square, hex, and a few other weird ones too. It's not a fancy or expensive set either, it's a Black & Dekker 109 piece set.

 

You two are cracking me up! "Pushy-clippy things" is an accurate, descriptive term...Or we could say PCT's?

 

I might get that, a cordless drill, 22pc 1/4" ratchet set, 1/2'' 275lb torque wrench, spark plug kit, a 1/2" to 1/4" adapter + 3, 6 and 12" extensions for the 1/4"... that sound good for working on cars?

 

Socket wrench, extensions, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, and IIRC 27mm (or is it 32 for the axle nuts?) sockets. Aforementioned hex sockets for the coil packs. Breaker bar, flat and phillips head screwdrivers. Id suggest an actual spark plug socket too, they have a little rubber thing inside that holds onto the plug. Line/flare wrenches are good too. An impact driver is needed to get that stupid little set screw out of the hubs when changing rotors (and any other stubborn bolt/screw), and a rubble mallet to go along with it. If you need to change the HID bulbs, youll also need a security torx bit. Its like a normal torx bit, just with a dimple in the middle. Ya know, for security

Thats the bare minimum.

Most importantly, if your car is in a northern climate, some form of penetrating lube, a torch, and patience.

 

Is it a 6 mm hex for those ignition coils?

 

Thats very possible, but I honestly don't remember.