JaredGMS

Hey all,
I know some people had discussed whether or not to buy those "knock off" rotors from ebay. Well I did, and today finally got to see that they were worth every penny I spent.

I was merging onto eastbound (actually north) I-80 business through Sacramento from 50 when a guy in a focking ford decided to cut right into me. I was on an overpass bridge, and there was about a 5 foot overlap between the ends of our cars (I could look straight over to his rear passenger). I slammed on the brakes and VERY narrowly avoided being punched over the railing down about 50 feet.
THEN, I am still behind this guy about 1/4 mile down the road (one lane onramp), he is doing about 40, not paying attention, he slams into the car in front of him which was, I think, stopped. I slam on the brakes again, and stop very well, again narrowly missing him. As hot as I got them in the first instance (75-->5mph in record time), there was still no brake fade. I can honestly say that wothout those rotors and pads that I would most likely be in the hospital right now.

Whoever that was , and props to those guys on ebay hooking me up with good product.

J

evilone

were they the ones buy now for 20 bucks? if so i got those to. they look great getting them installed 2morrow

JaredGMS

NO. I got the set of four for ~160 + shipping.
slotted/drilled rotors with zinc finish.

What rotors can you get for $20?

goldmemberer

Good to hear, glad you're well, but relax.

dallison

i had powerstop crossdrilled on my old camry, no matter how hard you beat em it was real tough to get fade on em. i did consecutive 7 acc and decel. runs downhill to 70 and back down to a dead stop. only on the last time did it even give any fade and not once did it lock up, and it did not have anti lock, and i was hammering the brakes

scalbert

But when your stopping distance from 60 MPH is 150 feet to begin with, a little fade wouldn't be noticed. JK.

acura1983

welcome to sacramento drivers.... those fawkers

JaredGMS

You're preaching to the choir, brother. I am from SoCal....I think there are just more inbreds up here :blaze:

Seattle Cl-S

Glad to hear you're ok, but I have to say that 2 consecutive stops would not cause the stock brakes to fade either. I ran 40 laps at the track before they started fading annoyingly...actually, the rotors warped at that point and had to be replaced.

JaredGMS

I was impressed by the lack of fade, but the stopping distance was unbelievable! I would have been screwed with stockies because of the distance (would have been three feet into their exhaust)

J.T.'s 3.2CL

How can you be so sure you are stopping shorter? Did you measure your stopping distances before and after? If in fact it did help it would be nearly impossible to tell without hard data. Glad your alright.

CLver

i bought the ones for 20 dollars.....plus 50 shipppint.....so 70 total for two front rotors...not bad for a 3.0.....

darrinb

i def need to get better brakes, but i dont think 160 will do it

dont u need to rotora big brake kit to reallly help it out

JaredGMS

The rotora kit is ideal, esp if you get the calipers too.

BUT, I didn't have 3K to drop, so I got slotted and drilled rotors (help with heat dissipation and stopping power) along with metal master pads (heat diss). This all goes towards stopping power.

(Hopefully once school is over I can afford it---three more years!!!)

JakeCL

traffic was nuts today all over all day long

bluelegend

hey Jared do you possibly have a link to those rotors?

hemants

Did ABS kick in?

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

Glad your ok, but I wouldn't praise the rotors & pads. You don't have any test comparsion to claim they made any real difference. The stock setup might have did the same. Just like a real BBK may or may not have made a difference. Might have been you great driving skills that saved you

Bluto

Brake fade has nothing to do with the rotors.


For emergency stopping, the tires are more important anyway.

MethodRN

Very good point. I aggree. I have slotted and drilled rotors w/ Axxiss MM. I have brought down my stopping distance 60-0 in 117 feet and that's consistently (measured using G-tech pro). I am running Dunlops and from my experience are good tires, soft compound making for good stick on everyday basis, not track.

Slotted and drilled to my understanding only dissipates heat to prevent fade during frequent high speed braking situations like track use. Which prevent rotor warping. The added "bite" from pads catching edges of holes and slots are just an added bonus. Another added bonus is because of holes and slots, x-drilled and slotted rotors tend to be lighter. Less weight to stop = shorter stopping distances.

To correct an earlier statement. Rotora "kits" always come w/ calipers, hence BBK.

Now interms of BBK, the added stopping power comes from a larger diameter rotor and more pistons. BBK either come w/ 4 or 6 piston calipers. The more the pistons the more clamping force that can applied to the larger surface area of the larger rotor.

These are just my opinions and interpretation. I could be wrong.

Dude glad to hear that you're ok. I've been fortunate to walk away from similar situations. Don't give your new brakes all the credit. I'm sure they helped a bit. But it probably had more to do w/ your quick reaction and defensive driving.

Zippee

There is no "bite" from the edges of the slots. If the slots edge came up higher than the rest of the rotor it would just gouge out the pad, and give a pulse feeleing like a warp.

A drilled rotor is lighter than a solid one but the difference in total rotating mass (rotor, wheel, tire, hub, etc) is insignificant on a street car.

Number of pistons is not the key to clamping force, total piston area is. Four pistons of say 1/2 sq in each will work no better than two 1 sq in as the total area is the same.

blader

since when is a big brake kit 3K$? The rotora kit can be had for 1300 shipped. Even the brembo is 2300, and Wilwood about 1700.

sixgearcl

hmm i need new rotors... my steering wheel trembles when i hit the brakes... they may be warped

blader

MAY be? lol .. I'd say they are warped. under normal conditions your wheel should not have any trembles or vibrations (assuming your brakes are fine and wheels are balanced)

JaredGMS

C-C-C- has the Brembro for 2400...then add rear braake components and shipping, you're knocking on 3K


WOW. I never thought this thread would take off like this. My biggest point in this was to refute what someone had earlier said that these rotors may fail. They didn't, I'm glad...


K-bye

oonowindoo

first of all.... glad u didnt hit him....


Then FYI: Crossdrilled/slotted rotors with stock caliper and brake lines have little/no performance gains

Those drilled/slotted rotors definetely look good and it helps to reduce the heat and stress for the brake and of course it wears out your brake pads much faster. BUT it does NOT help on your stopping distance.

and also. personally, i would not buy anything cheap for brake system because a little mistake might kill me. I would rather spend BIG $$ for real brembo or stoptech rotors than some cheap no name brand rotors. because it might work fine for now, but who knows what is gonna happen 6 month later... they might crack on you.

MethodRN

I'm not saying that edge of slots come up higher then rest of rotor. I'm pretty sure I read somewhere though that the edges of the slots clean off the surface of the pads. Now if this is the case, then edges of slots would have to somewhat "scrape" pads = more friction. Not gouge. Again, not something that determines stopping distance, just another factor.
Quote from AP racing regarding X-drilled and slotted:X-drilled and slotted for "aggressive pad bite and proper out-gassing"
http://www.stillen.com/specs/AP3700info.pdf


I agree and but like I said it's just an added bonus. Not a determing factor. To get any real weight saving you'd have to go w/ 2 peice w/ light aluminum hat.


If that's the case, what's the point in upgrading to 4-6 piston calipers from stock calipers.
Quote from Brembo as to the benefit of 4-8piston calipers: 4 or 8 piston cast aluminum calipers. Benefit: Provide maximum braking force w/out flex of sliding calipers.
http://www.brembo.com/NR/rdonlyres/8...4HPCatalog.pdf
page 11.

Zippee

If the pad was to be scraped, it would have to extend below the surface of the rotor as the slot passes by.

All the slots do is allow hot gas and dust to escape from behind the pad. Holes do the same thing.



A sliding caliper has a single piston on one side, 2/4/6/8 piston units have them on both.
Properly designed, a single pad caliper will have no more flex than a multi piston one.

I doubt caliper flex is a real problem on the street.

MethodRN

I guess AP racing is wrong then. What does it mean then when they say aggressive pad bite? If I'm not mistaken this is why you have to use a harder compound brake pad when using slotted/x-drilled rotors.


My point in my first response was just that, the more pistons you have the greater the clamping force over stock. Generally stock calipers have one sliding caliper. I wasn't commenting of caliper flex, I know it's not a problem on the street. That's just something mentioned on brembo that I was quoting.

Zippee

Sounds like marketing talk to me. I have no idea what they mean by "pad bite" unless they are talking about being able to use a more aggressive (softer) pad material.

Actually a slotted/drilled rotor runs cooler so you can go to a softer pad without fade. A softer pad has a higher coeficient of friction and stops faster, but wears more. You go to a harder pad to prevent fade and wear.

It's not the number of pistons, it's the total piston area that makes the difference. You could change the size of the piston in a single piston slider and also increase clamping force....or change the size of the master cylinder.