should I install headers myself?
03-12-2009, 10:48 AM
#1
should I install headers myself?
I have some xs headers just laying around in my garage I was planning on installing them myself this weekend by my dad kept saying what if you stip a bolt and get it stuck in the block it will be a big problem. Its making me think twice about doing it myself and paying a pro to do it. What do you guys think how hard is it to break a bolt off and get it stuck has anyone done it before?
03-12-2009, 11:40 AM
#4
Please let someone else do it. I honestly don't give a shit what anyone else says about how easy it is. It would only be easy if the car were new and the bolts werent rusted. My flexpipe was rusted so badly to the cat, it might as well have been welded. Just let an exhaust shop do it. It will save you time and money.
03-12-2009, 11:44 AM
#5
Please let someone else do it. I honestly don't give a shit what anyone else says about how easy it is. It would only be easy if the car were new and the bolts werent rusted. My flexpipe was rusted so badly to the cat, it might as well have been welded. Just let an exhaust shop do it. It will save you time and money.
03-12-2009, 11:44 AM
#6
Advanced
I am in the same boat as you are but i have not yet recieved my XS Headers.. I am planning on doing it myself. I have changed headers in 4 cyl hondas and its a piece of cake. I have not put on headers in a v6 yet, it looks like it will be a little tedious but you should manage if you know what tolls to use and some experience with working on cars. As for shop prices.. id say $80-$140.. if i were you id get a friend that knows what he/she is doing and pay them like $50 and help out.
03-12-2009, 11:46 AM
#7
Whats up with RDX owners?
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I did mine myself. Im a cheap bastard though and I dont like anyone touching my car.
The only issue I had was the three bolts that held the J-pipe to the cat. They were stripped and I didnt have anything to cut through them. I ended up cutting through the old j-pipe and driving to the exhaust shop with open headers to get them to cut the bolts and attach the header to the cat.
The rear is alittle tight, but with some maneuvering it can be done. The front was easy. The guy at the exhaust shop asked who did the install. When I said it was me he was shocked. He said if I asked him to do it he would have said no.
The bolts on the block will likely not strip. If they do its not a big deal. It's not a bolt, but a nut on a stud that is easily replacable. Id be more concerned with the bolts holding the header to the cat.
If you do it yourself, have plently of PB Blaster and dont tighten anything up until you have it all installed and lined up properly. Also dont forget the OEM gaskets (header to engine). The header/cat gasket is a different size compared to stock. Also, use better bolts. You can pick them up at Home Depot. The ones that come from XS are shit.
The only issue I had was the three bolts that held the J-pipe to the cat. They were stripped and I didnt have anything to cut through them. I ended up cutting through the old j-pipe and driving to the exhaust shop with open headers to get them to cut the bolts and attach the header to the cat.
The rear is alittle tight, but with some maneuvering it can be done. The front was easy. The guy at the exhaust shop asked who did the install. When I said it was me he was shocked. He said if I asked him to do it he would have said no.
The bolts on the block will likely not strip. If they do its not a big deal. It's not a bolt, but a nut on a stud that is easily replacable. Id be more concerned with the bolts holding the header to the cat.
If you do it yourself, have plently of PB Blaster and dont tighten anything up until you have it all installed and lined up properly. Also dont forget the OEM gaskets (header to engine). The header/cat gasket is a different size compared to stock. Also, use better bolts. You can pick them up at Home Depot. The ones that come from XS are shit.
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03-12-2009, 11:46 AM
#8
Advanced
As for the bolts that came with the XS headers.. Use your original gaskets and buy some better bolts than the ones they provided. NO NOT USE THE GASKETS THAT CAME WITH THE HEADERS. Although you can they are not of good quality.
03-12-2009, 11:48 AM
#9
Advanced
What civicdrivr sumed up is good info.
03-12-2009, 02:45 PM
#11
Pro
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^ well I asked the local shop that always does good work and would be considered the "cheaper" alternative...they quoted me around $300 if I had my own parts O.o
Take a day and do it yourself, just prepare the car by soaking the bolts in some WD40 substance for like a week and then go at it on a warm day when you have nothing better to do
Take a day and do it yourself, just prepare the car by soaking the bolts in some WD40 substance for like a week and then go at it on a warm day when you have nothing better to do
03-12-2009, 03:40 PM
#13
CL-S 6Speed is rarely in
I agree. Its not super hard, but not super easy either. All depends on what tools you have and your mechanical abilities. I attempeted the install myself but gave up and paid a small local shop to do it. Because I paid cash, they only charged $150. Small price to pay for convience of dropping you car off with stock manifolds and picking it back up a few hours later with some headers. Get your header to manifold gaskets from acura. The ones with the xs headers suck. I got my nuts and bolts from lowe's for under 10 bucks. The shop that did mine told me to come back after 500 miles and they would re-check for leaks. They didn't charge me for it either. They also wrapped the flex pipe for me. Good luck.
03-12-2009, 05:01 PM
#14
Whats up with RDX owners?
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Forgot to add, if you do it yourself, pick up an acetylene torch just in case you need to break a bolt loose.
03-12-2009, 05:25 PM
#16
Whats up with RDX owners?
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03-12-2009, 05:58 PM
#18
Whats up with RDX owners?
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03-12-2009, 06:24 PM
#19
I installed mine with the help of a buddy, very important to have someone there to help. Also don't forget to wrap the flex pipe of the header with header wrap or it will be noisy as fuck. Be sure to clamp both ends of the wrap. Learned that the the hard way.
03-12-2009, 07:04 PM
#23
Advanced
why is he saying you need new ones?? if they are stripped to the point where you cannot properly grip them to screw them in tight or unscrew them next time then you would need new ones. Other than that reuse them... someone add your 2 cents because i may not be right. I would reuse them if thye are in good condition..
03-12-2009, 07:07 PM
#24
my dad said that they might come out and it would be a good idea to get new ones but I thought that the old ones would just work fine. I think my dad just doesn't like the idea of a 17 year old working on a such a nice car and mess it up
03-12-2009, 07:34 PM
#25
Moderator Alumnus
^^^honestly it's the only way to learn how your car functions, and it's the best way. Why be so scared, if something breaks you replace it. Not all 17 year olds are going to have $1000 in the bank just in case something minor goes wrong. But if your dad is cool he should let you do the work.
When I owned my CL I took almost everything apart and put it back together the long way when I was doing ALL day projects. If anything did happen to break, I knew how to fix it.
When I owned my CL I took almost everything apart and put it back together the long way when I was doing ALL day projects. If anything did happen to break, I knew how to fix it.
03-12-2009, 08:03 PM
#26
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do it yourself. you get more of a sense of satisfaction when you complete the job yourself instead of having someone else do it for you. theres a quote floating around somewhere here on acurazine went something like paying someone to work on you car and feeling good after is like paying somebody to fuck your wife and being proud when the baby is born. but then again i like doing stuff myself. all the info you need on a DIY job is on the site. so like most people said, you have to learn eventually. especially if you are gonna treat that car like your baby.
03-12-2009, 08:07 PM
#27
do it yourself. you get more of a sense of satisfaction when you complete the job yourself instead of having someone else do it for you. theres a quote floating around somewhere here on acurazine went something like paying someone to work on you car and feeling good after is like paying somebody to fuck your wife and being proud when the baby is born. but then again i like doing stuff myself. all the info you need on a DIY job is on the site. so like most people said, you have to learn eventually. especially if you are gonna treat that car like your baby.
03-12-2009, 08:34 PM
#28
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I cant wait to intall my Megans 
But can someone elaborate on the gaskets and bolts (grade)? Or any other helpful tips? Such as someone mentioned wrapping the flex pipe?
But can someone elaborate on the gaskets and bolts (grade)? Or any other helpful tips? Such as someone mentioned wrapping the flex pipe?
Last edited by AnthraciteBeast; 03-12-2009 at 08:37 PM. Reason: I spelled pie instead of pipe HAha
03-12-2009, 09:16 PM
#29
Whats up with RDX owners?
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The flexpipe tends to rattle on the XS headers. I didn't do mine and now Ive got to climb back underneath the car to do it.
The cylinder head to headers gaskets are what you replace with OEM. There are two. I forget the part number. They are cheap. The crush gaskets included however are ok.
The bolts, nuts and washers can be purchased at Lowes, Home Depot or a hardware store. You need 6, three for each header where it connects to the J pipe (or downpipe, whichever you prefer).
Make sure you have a breaker bar. If you happen to strip the bolts for the cat just heat it up real good (until it is basically glowing) and then loosen it.
The castle nuts holding the header to the heads don't need to be replaced until they are stripped.
Make sure you use jack stands (I shouldn't have to say that though). Make sure you have PB Blaster or WD40, a ratchet, extensions, a breaker bar, 12mm and 14mm sockets (deep well preferably), 12mm and 14mm wrench, and whatever size socket and wrench your new bolts need. I found it beneficial to have one of those swivel things that go on the ratchet so it is easier to get the rear header to head bolts out.
Take a look at the CT install instructions for step by step instructions. They mention something about moving the radiator to get the front header heat shield off. That isnt needed. You can manuever it out. It just takes some wiggling.
The cylinder head to headers gaskets are what you replace with OEM. There are two. I forget the part number. They are cheap. The crush gaskets included however are ok.
The bolts, nuts and washers can be purchased at Lowes, Home Depot or a hardware store. You need 6, three for each header where it connects to the J pipe (or downpipe, whichever you prefer).
Make sure you have a breaker bar. If you happen to strip the bolts for the cat just heat it up real good (until it is basically glowing) and then loosen it.
The castle nuts holding the header to the heads don't need to be replaced until they are stripped.
Make sure you use jack stands (I shouldn't have to say that though). Make sure you have PB Blaster or WD40, a ratchet, extensions, a breaker bar, 12mm and 14mm sockets (deep well preferably), 12mm and 14mm wrench, and whatever size socket and wrench your new bolts need. I found it beneficial to have one of those swivel things that go on the ratchet so it is easier to get the rear header to head bolts out.
Take a look at the CT install instructions for step by step instructions. They mention something about moving the radiator to get the front header heat shield off. That isnt needed. You can manuever it out. It just takes some wiggling.
03-12-2009, 10:27 PM
#31
The flexpipe tends to rattle on the XS headers. I didn't do mine and now Ive got to climb back underneath the car to do it.
The cylinder head to headers gaskets are what you replace with OEM. There are two. I forget the part number. They are cheap. The crush gaskets included however are ok.
The bolts, nuts and washers can be purchased at Lowes, Home Depot or a hardware store. You need 6, three for each header where it connects to the J pipe (or downpipe, whichever you prefer).
Make sure you have a breaker bar. If you happen to strip the bolts for the cat just heat it up real good (until it is basically glowing) and then loosen it.
The castle nuts holding the header to the heads don't need to be replaced until they are stripped.
Make sure you use jack stands (I shouldn't have to say that though). Make sure you have PB Blaster or WD40, a ratchet, extensions, a breaker bar, 12mm and 14mm sockets (deep well preferably), 12mm and 14mm wrench, and whatever size socket and wrench your new bolts need. I found it beneficial to have one of those swivel things that go on the ratchet so it is easier to get the rear header to head bolts out.
Take a look at the CT install instructions for step by step instructions. They mention something about moving the radiator to get the front header heat shield off. That isnt needed. You can manuever it out. It just takes some wiggling.
The cylinder head to headers gaskets are what you replace with OEM. There are two. I forget the part number. They are cheap. The crush gaskets included however are ok.
The bolts, nuts and washers can be purchased at Lowes, Home Depot or a hardware store. You need 6, three for each header where it connects to the J pipe (or downpipe, whichever you prefer).
Make sure you have a breaker bar. If you happen to strip the bolts for the cat just heat it up real good (until it is basically glowing) and then loosen it.
The castle nuts holding the header to the heads don't need to be replaced until they are stripped.
Make sure you use jack stands (I shouldn't have to say that though). Make sure you have PB Blaster or WD40, a ratchet, extensions, a breaker bar, 12mm and 14mm sockets (deep well preferably), 12mm and 14mm wrench, and whatever size socket and wrench your new bolts need. I found it beneficial to have one of those swivel things that go on the ratchet so it is easier to get the rear header to head bolts out.
Take a look at the CT install instructions for step by step instructions. They mention something about moving the radiator to get the front header heat shield off. That isnt needed. You can manuever it out. It just takes some wiggling.
03-12-2009, 10:35 PM
#32
To add to civicdrivr's very helpful post: Make sure you leave everything slightly loose when first installing. Once you get all three pieces together and lined up properly. Tighten everything down from the front to back, then the bottom. Trust me it made all the difference when installing mine. Look for grade 8 steel bolts everything else will snap. Get header wrap and clamps from autozone. Enjoy the pleasure of doing it yourself and saving some $$$ that you can use towards more mods!
03-12-2009, 10:36 PM
#33
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Yea, you use the oem castle nuts. The only bolts that you are replacing are the 6 that connect the headers to the j-pipe.
03-12-2009, 10:37 PM
#34
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
yea, no better feeling than a job well done.............by yourself
03-12-2009, 10:38 PM
#36
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
To the op:
Where in NC are you located btw?
Where in NC are you located btw?
03-13-2009, 12:58 AM
#38
Moderator Alumnus
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-frequently-asked-questions-52/owners-manual-link-acuras-hondas-since-1990-a-488973/
03-13-2009, 10:10 AM
#40
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
I can't even find the service manual on Haynes website. I don't think Chilton does one either. I may need to get one straight from Honda.