Shopping for CL-S 6MT
04-22-2006, 01:58 PM
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Common CL problems?
Hey guys I'm new to this list and I'm helping a friend shop for a 02-03 cl type s. I wanted to know any common problems that the CL's are known to have and what to look out for when buying a used CL. She is also looking specifically for a 6 speed so I would also like to know if there are any problems with them as well. Most of the cars we have found online so far are around 40-50k miles and I've heard that the 3.2L V6 has timing belts so what is the recommended interval to have them replaced? Thanks
04-22-2006, 02:18 PM
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Shopping for CL-S 6MT
I posted a similar post in a diff subforum and I meant to do it here so please don't delete this moderators.
Ok I'm helping a friend buy a Cl type s 6 speed and I'm looking around to try and see what the common problems are with them. I drive a 6 speed max and our cars are known for blowing MAFs and having undersized brakes. Is there any common issues with the 6 speeds or just the cl-s in general? Also what should I look out for when shopping for a used one, like any band-aid fix type of issues? Thaks alot guys.
Ok I'm helping a friend buy a Cl type s 6 speed and I'm looking around to try and see what the common problems are with them. I drive a 6 speed max and our cars are known for blowing MAFs and having undersized brakes. Is there any common issues with the 6 speeds or just the cl-s in general? Also what should I look out for when shopping for a used one, like any band-aid fix type of issues? Thaks alot guys.
04-22-2006, 02:29 PM
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there aren't to many reported problems with the 6MT, the 5AT did have some tranny issues but it seemed to affected only a small number. I just bought an 01 CLS 5AT (I got tired of manual after 15 years!) I think the CLS is a great buy and like all cars will have some issues as the car ages. I bought a first gen CL years ago....i then moved to VW and BMW and I'm now back to Acura. All depends on what you're looking for and budget. GL with the buy...
04-22-2006, 03:13 PM
#4
Rotors warping, some rattles & sqeaks that have TSB's on them(sunroof being one), A sensor or 2 here & there, really that's it for problems. The auto's had tranny problems & most are covered to 100K miles. The 6MT is reliable. You might have to replace a clutch in 60K miles, but that happend to ony a few members. I have 50K on mine & no sign of a problem. Several members have 300HP to the wheels going through the stock clutch fine.
04-22-2006, 06:00 PM
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tranny(auto)
actuator
srs light
motor mount(monstrous torque)
-------------------------------------------------------------------
maybe more but cant think of any other right now.
actuator
srs light
motor mount(monstrous torque)
-------------------------------------------------------------------
maybe more but cant think of any other right now.
04-27-2006, 04:18 PM
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Timing belt & water pump replacements recomended @ 105K miles.
Other problems or issues that SundanceCL-S didn't mention...
By "acutator" he means the IMRC. (VERY common & easy to fix, not too costly) See below for more info.
Auto dimming mirror won't dim and/or exploding
Buzzing noise from ABS/VSA priming iteslf when you first start up and drive off (this is normal)
Noisy clicking from the Purge Valve Soleniod (easy, cheap fix-located next to the firewall on drivers side-little black box/relay looking thing)
Stolen HID's (depending on where you live)
The paint is very thin as well as the body panels: VERY easy to scratch and ding. PARK FAR AWAY!!!
-Taken from ChodtheWacko's FAQ
Other problems or issues that SundanceCL-S didn't mention...
By "acutator" he means the IMRC. (VERY common & easy to fix, not too costly) See below for more info.
Auto dimming mirror won't dim and/or exploding
Buzzing noise from ABS/VSA priming iteslf when you first start up and drive off (this is normal)
Noisy clicking from the Purge Valve Soleniod (easy, cheap fix-located next to the firewall on drivers side-little black box/relay looking thing)
Stolen HID's (depending on where you live)
The paint is very thin as well as the body panels: VERY easy to scratch and ding. PARK FAR AWAY!!!
-Taken from ChodtheWacko's FAQ
Originally Posted by [url="http://www.geocities.com/gamesmgr/chod/acura/#Driving6"
www.geocities.com/gamesmgr/chod/acura/#Driving6[/url]]
What is an actuator and how do I tell if it is broken?
* At 4100 RPM, the ECU signals a 12V actuator to open the secondary intake valve. If the actuator is broken, you're losing a fair amount of power in the mid-range RPMS.
* Click here for pics of the actuator in action.
* Note that some dealers are not even aware the actuator exists! So to get it fixed you should print out pictures/posts regarding the actuator and stuff it in the dealer's face. And/or show them how the actuator works on a non-broken Type-S.
* If the actuator needs to be ordered the Part name is: "Bypass Valve Actuator"
* Click here for a realplayer movie of the actuator in action.
* If the engine is cold, and you turn the actuator by hand, you should hear a 'Thunk' sound near the top of the engine, and the secondary intake opens.
What is an actuator and how do I tell if it is broken?
* At 4100 RPM, the ECU signals a 12V actuator to open the secondary intake valve. If the actuator is broken, you're losing a fair amount of power in the mid-range RPMS.
* Click here for pics of the actuator in action.
* Note that some dealers are not even aware the actuator exists! So to get it fixed you should print out pictures/posts regarding the actuator and stuff it in the dealer's face. And/or show them how the actuator works on a non-broken Type-S.
* If the actuator needs to be ordered the Part name is: "Bypass Valve Actuator"
* Click here for a realplayer movie of the actuator in action.
* If the engine is cold, and you turn the actuator by hand, you should hear a 'Thunk' sound near the top of the engine, and the secondary intake opens.
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I thought I had mentioned that. Oh well.
04-28-2006, 10:25 AM
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Thanks for the replies everyone. What have you done about the warped rotors issue? I have seen that a lot of guys are running rotora slotted/X-drilled rotors and EBC greenstuff, Axxis, or Hawk Hps pads. Does this normally solve the warped rotor issue? The CL is actually for my gf, so it's not going to be tracked or anything. We're not looking for a big brake kit, just a slight improvement over stock without having to worry about warping rotors.
04-28-2006, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by maxspeedse02
Thanks for the replies everyone. What have you done about the warped rotors issue? I have seen that a lot of guys are running rotora slotted/X-drilled rotors and EBC greenstuff, Axxis, or Hawk Hps pads. Does this normally solve the warped rotor issue? The CL is actually for my gf, so it's not going to be tracked or anything. We're not looking for a big brake kit, just a slight improvement over stock without having to worry about warping rotors.
04-28-2006, 11:04 PM
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Not a problem per se, but I always urge people to get better/wider tires. The 215 50 17 Michelins are a joke, especially if you get a six speed. A lot of people have put 225 45 17 or 235 45 17 size tires on the stock wheels.
Just something to think about if you get a CLS.
ps I must have missed the exploding mirror threads!!!
Just something to think about if you get a CLS.
ps I must have missed the exploding mirror threads!!!
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