Rotors and pads installation
03-14-2012, 02:17 PM
#1
failhard.
Thread Starter
Rotors and pads installation
I'm getting a set of Hawk ceramic pads and a set of front PowerSlot rotors this Friday, and I'd like to get the AZ perspective on how hard it is to switch out pads and rotors. Obviously I'm a bit nervous about it because these are components you don't wanna fuck up on and I've never done brake installations yet. From my limited research, in a nutshell it seems I just siphon the brake fluid from the master cylinder, separate everything, pull the rotor out, install the new stuff, toss the fluids back in, and voila. Then there's the break-in period after that.
So, question is, is there anything special I'd need to know about the process, and how hard is it, and should I be nervous?
So, question is, is there anything special I'd need to know about the process, and how hard is it, and should I be nervous?
03-14-2012, 03:14 PM
#3
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
You dont touch the master cylinder. Think of it as a completely different system from what youre doing.
1) Wheel off
2) Remove both bolts holding the calipers on
3) Remove both bolts holding the caliper bracket to the knuckle
4) Drill out or use an impact driver on the two screws holding the rotors to the hub (if there)
5) Spray new rotors with brake parts cleaner to remove the anti-rust coating on them and slide onto the hub, no need to reuse those stupid ass set screws
6) Reinstall caliper bracket
7) Replace pads with new pads, ensuring the shims are installed correctly and that you applied the anti-squeal grease
8) Slide caliper back onto bracket and tighten bolts*
9) Reinstall wheel
10) Pump the brakes before going for a test drive, you dont want to pull out of the driveway and tap the brakes to realize you dont have any.
11) Bed in the pads per manufacturers recommendations
*The caliper piston may be extended, requiring you to retract the piston. They make special clamps for this, or you can just crack the bleeder screw and push the piston all the way in, then quickly tighten the bleeder screw. A small amount of fluid will come out. Make sure the bleeder is pointed straight up otherwise you could suck air into the system. Dont get brake fluid on any painted surfaces as it will eat through it.
If you dont already have one, get a shop manual for the torque values.
The rear pads are very similar, but replacing rear rotors is a bit more in depth. Don't do it unless you have a shop manual.
The front shouldnt take any more then an hour and the rear is about 1.5hrs. If its your first time, take you time and triple check everything. The braking system is the only way to stop a 3500lb missile. Well, and a wall, but you dont want to stop it that way
1) Wheel off
2) Remove both bolts holding the calipers on
3) Remove both bolts holding the caliper bracket to the knuckle
4) Drill out or use an impact driver on the two screws holding the rotors to the hub (if there)
5) Spray new rotors with brake parts cleaner to remove the anti-rust coating on them and slide onto the hub, no need to reuse those stupid ass set screws
6) Reinstall caliper bracket
7) Replace pads with new pads, ensuring the shims are installed correctly and that you applied the anti-squeal grease
8) Slide caliper back onto bracket and tighten bolts*
9) Reinstall wheel
10) Pump the brakes before going for a test drive, you dont want to pull out of the driveway and tap the brakes to realize you dont have any.
11) Bed in the pads per manufacturers recommendations
*The caliper piston may be extended, requiring you to retract the piston. They make special clamps for this, or you can just crack the bleeder screw and push the piston all the way in, then quickly tighten the bleeder screw. A small amount of fluid will come out. Make sure the bleeder is pointed straight up otherwise you could suck air into the system. Dont get brake fluid on any painted surfaces as it will eat through it.
If you dont already have one, get a shop manual for the torque values.
The rear pads are very similar, but replacing rear rotors is a bit more in depth. Don't do it unless you have a shop manual.
The front shouldnt take any more then an hour and the rear is about 1.5hrs. If its your first time, take you time and triple check everything. The braking system is the only way to stop a 3500lb missile. Well, and a wall, but you dont want to stop it that way
Last edited by civicdrivr; 03-14-2012 at 03:17 PM.
03-14-2012, 03:25 PM
#4
You dont touch the master cylinder. Think of it as a completely different system from what youre doing.
1) Wheel off
2) Remove both bolts holding the calipers on
3) Remove both bolts holding the caliper bracket to the knuckle
4) Drill out or use an impact driver on the two screws holding the rotors to the hub (if there)
5) Spray new rotors with brake parts cleaner to remove the anti-rust coating on them and slide onto the hub, no need to reuse those stupid ass set screws
6) Reinstall caliper bracket
7) Replace pads with new pads, ensuring the shims are installed correctly and that you applied the anti-squeal grease
8) Slide caliper back onto bracket and tighten bolts*
9) Reinstall wheel
10) Pump the brakes before going for a test drive, you dont want to pull out of the driveway and tap the brakes to realize you dont have any.
11) Bed in the pads per manufacturers recommendations
*The caliper piston may be extended, requiring you to retract the piston. They make special clamps for this, or you can just crack the bleeder screw and push the piston all the way in, then quickly tighten the bleeder screw. A small amount of fluid will come out. Make sure the bleeder is pointed straight up otherwise you could suck air into the system. Dont get brake fluid on any painted surfaces as it will eat through it.
If you dont already have one, get a shop manual for the torque values.
The rear pads are very similar, but replacing rear rotors is a bit more in depth. Don't do it unless you have a shop manual.
The front shouldnt take any more then an hour and the rear is about 1.5hrs. If its your first time, take you time and triple check everything. The braking system is the only way to stop a 3500lb missile. Well, and a wall, but you dont want to stop it that way
1) Wheel off
2) Remove both bolts holding the calipers on
3) Remove both bolts holding the caliper bracket to the knuckle
4) Drill out or use an impact driver on the two screws holding the rotors to the hub (if there)
5) Spray new rotors with brake parts cleaner to remove the anti-rust coating on them and slide onto the hub, no need to reuse those stupid ass set screws
6) Reinstall caliper bracket
7) Replace pads with new pads, ensuring the shims are installed correctly and that you applied the anti-squeal grease
8) Slide caliper back onto bracket and tighten bolts*
9) Reinstall wheel
10) Pump the brakes before going for a test drive, you dont want to pull out of the driveway and tap the brakes to realize you dont have any.
11) Bed in the pads per manufacturers recommendations
*The caliper piston may be extended, requiring you to retract the piston. They make special clamps for this, or you can just crack the bleeder screw and push the piston all the way in, then quickly tighten the bleeder screw. A small amount of fluid will come out. Make sure the bleeder is pointed straight up otherwise you could suck air into the system. Dont get brake fluid on any painted surfaces as it will eat through it.
If you dont already have one, get a shop manual for the torque values.
The rear pads are very similar, but replacing rear rotors is a bit more in depth. Don't do it unless you have a shop manual.
The front shouldnt take any more then an hour and the rear is about 1.5hrs. If its your first time, take you time and triple check everything. The braking system is the only way to stop a 3500lb missile. Well, and a wall, but you dont want to stop it that way
03-14-2012, 11:01 PM
#5
#4 is the easiest part if u 1 have a drill and 2 use the proper phillips head #3 i believe it is... don't even try using anything but both the right bit and drill or it will be a nightmare yes.
OP i would not run hawk pads... i had them and they were the loudest pad i had run and they were horrible if hey were not hot, which really blows chunks for daily driving.. i opted for the stoptech pads and honestly they're the best out of the 3 other pads i have used. i would imagine for tracking the hawk pads would be up there but they really were a let down for myself especially for the $
OP i would not run hawk pads... i had them and they were the loudest pad i had run and they were horrible if hey were not hot, which really blows chunks for daily driving.. i opted for the stoptech pads and honestly they're the best out of the 3 other pads i have used. i would imagine for tracking the hawk pads would be up there but they really were a let down for myself especially for the $
03-14-2012, 11:19 PM
#6
IAPECC Member
1. Contrary to popular belief those screws ARE ment to be reinstalled or have new ones installed, they're not just for factory use.
2. If you tinker with the brakes or any aspect of the system and are not licenced (which you are not) if something were to happen, eg accident do to brake failure, you are liable and will be sued. This is a legal fact.
3. Monetary policy aside think of the impact you may have on someones life if you cant stop...
4. Finally, if you screw something up in the motor, big deal, it was an expensive mistake, but you kill someone and thats not as easily cleaned up or absolved.
Dont be cheap, get a pro.
2. If you tinker with the brakes or any aspect of the system and are not licenced (which you are not) if something were to happen, eg accident do to brake failure, you are liable and will be sued. This is a legal fact.
3. Monetary policy aside think of the impact you may have on someones life if you cant stop...
4. Finally, if you screw something up in the motor, big deal, it was an expensive mistake, but you kill someone and thats not as easily cleaned up or absolved.
Dont be cheap, get a pro.
03-14-2012, 11:20 PM
#7
Chapter Leader (Southeast Region)
I just did mine on my car over the weekend and it is not as difficult as it seems although I had a friend help me. just follow civicdrivr's instructions and you will be good to good. follow the companies bed in procedure as it will vary from company to company. I had never messed with breaks but i also had a friend help me which helped me out a lot not to mention he had good tools that i didnt
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03-14-2012, 11:27 PM
#8
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
The screws are there to make manufacturing easier. The rotors are hub centric, so not having the screws wont cause any vibrations. If your rotor comes off, you have a much larger problem on your hands, and it has nothing to do with those soft screws.
03-15-2012, 03:52 PM
#9
The brakes are pretty straight forward once you get a hang of it. Just make sure everything is tight when you put it back together and you'll be fine. I remove some of the brake fluid in the reservior first so that when I retract the pistons, I don't over flow it. Just make sure to add fresh fluid back, not the old stuff.
My 350Z rotors are only lug centric and I'm not experiencing any vibrations. I need to look into some hubrings for those rotors still though.
My 350Z rotors are only lug centric and I'm not experiencing any vibrations. I need to look into some hubrings for those rotors still though.
03-15-2012, 04:05 PM
#10
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
EDIT - Just bought them
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUB-CENTRIC-...2#ht_500wt_932
Ill probably have to trim the flare off the rings though, but Im cool with that.
Last edited by civicdrivr; 03-15-2012 at 04:09 PM.
03-15-2012, 04:48 PM
#12
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
03-17-2012, 07:16 PM
#14
For step four, go get an impact driver. You can get a good one at any tool store for less than 20 bucks. It exerts a turning force on the screws while also breaking them loose from the hub. I broke many screwdriver bits before I found out about this wonderful tool. It took one little tap on each screw and they popped right out. Oh and if you take the caliper pins out make sure you remember which one is which cus the top Amd bottom are different.
Edit: not an impact driver but a "screw knocker" I believe is the term
Edit: not an impact driver but a "screw knocker" I believe is the term
03-18-2012, 02:17 PM
#15
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
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