I'm dying here

So i've been having issues with this damn A/C for a while now and this is the latest I narrowed it down to. (i've had one or two other threads here in the past but the help I got never panned out)

I've had it evacuated and re-filled at the mecanic twice. Each time it blows cold for a week or two and then the same sypmtoms come back.

Symptoms:
When I first start the car for the day (Or after sitting for a couple of hours) the Air blows Freezing cold. Gradually it starts to get warmer until it's now blowing any cold air anymore.

I've checked the pressure and the low side is good. As soon as I turn the A/C on the low pressure side just continues to drop almost down to nothing. Once I turn the A/C off the gauge starts to rise and over time seems to go back to normal pressure until I start up the A/C again and it drops. If I hold the RPM's up a bit the pressure drops down to 0 even quicker.

The Compressor spins/engages fine and is not making any noise at all.

The Expansion valve behind the Cabin air fiter in the dash is freezing cold and one pipe coming from the expansion valve is freezing cold and the other pipe is hot. (not sure if this is normal or indicates a clog at the valve?)

In the other thread someone mentioned to check my drier/receiver for a clog? I'm guessing there is no way to check that without removing the refrigerant? All I know is that both pipes (high and low?) are warm at the drier.

Pretty much the only pipe that stays cold is at the expansion valve under my dash. All other pipes (high/low) under the hood get warm/hot once the A/C stops working. The expansion valve stays freezing cold though.

ARGGGGGGGGGGGGGG.....

BTW its 90 degrees and sunny right now...and my car is all apart...

 

Was it leak tested using dye?

 

That's the best way to find the issue. Sounds like you have a leak.

 

Yup! No leaks...

Well I went to two mechnics.

The first guy said that I needed a new compressor and receiver/drier. I think it is BS since it seems to be compressing air fine. Its not making any noise, the clutch engages ok and there is no leaks coming from it.

The second mechanic said there seems to be a blockage at the receiver/drier. He said that I just need to get a new one and he will install it and flush my lines at the same time.


I think I will go with the second choice since the first guy wants $850 and the second guy will only charge me ~$185 to install a new receiver. but I have to get it myself at Acura.

Does anyone know if I can only get this parts at Acura? Or are there thrid party brands?

Thanks for the help!

 

Part #6 is the receiver


Print out the parts list below and see if they'll match the price Delray Acura has.
List: $84.95
Delray: $63.71


http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

 

Thanks NSX

I just called a local auto part supplier and they have it in stock. Im going to swing by and take a look tomorrow.
All my local dealerships want $110 + and they have to order it.

 

To me, it sounds more like a mix issue. Has anyone checked the heater valve to make sure it's closed and not flowing hot water into the cabin when you have your A/C on. When you say it's cold when you start it and then gets progressively warm, does this coincide with your temperature gauge?

 

Here are some pictures I just took of the evaporator under the dashboard thru the opening where the cabin air filters go. You will see the expansion valve and the evaporator to the left.

Notice the lower rear pipe is white and frozen cold while the other pipe coming from the other side of the evaporator is warm. Is this normal? Or should both pipes be cold? The evaporator remains warm as well. Pretty much this is the only bit of the whole system that I can find that actually gets freezing cold when the A/C is on.







What could this mean?

a) Not enough refrigerant to cool the evaporator?
b) A blockage in the receiver can cause this?
c) Clog in the evaporator itself?
d) Other?

My mechanic says that its a clogged receiver, but seeing this causes me to wonder??

 

The air mixer works fine. I already checked on it. Thanks!

 

 

i just got fixed my ac this week i was having terrible noises from under the hood and knew that was compresor i replaced it cost me 1200$ but now finally its working like it suposed to work. same problems same symphtoms as u describe + noise car sounded like supercharged and was shaking whole motor. and also a car when ac was on.

also dryier and main heater was replaced and valves but i dont remember which one was that ill take a look at the bill and let you know

 

Do you have gauges to read the high side pressure vs low (return) side pressures?

 

When you say that the low side continues to drop to almost 0, does the compressor shut off? I would expect to if the pressure is really getting down to 0. If the compressor is short cycling when on Max A/C, there's not enough freon to keep the compressor fed. If you're confident that it has a full charge, then the blockage idea seems reasonable.

 

This is out of Helms. If the high side is normal but your low side is abnormally low, it could be your expansion valve or plugged receiver/dryer. According to this, if it's the receiver/dryer, one side would be hot and the other cold indicating plugged or a restriction.

 

Thanks Allout, that scan came in handy.

I'm done trying to troubleshoot this myself. I'm just going to bite the bullet, lube up my anus, and take it to the dealer. I have an appt. thursday.

The heat is killing me and at this point I will pay anything to have a working A/C

 

dont pay these bastards even penny get a local mechanic to fix it. i got fixed it this week and now im sitting at home sick

 

I think you have bad expansion valve. It is blcoing the freeon as it cools down and that is why you preasuer drops down to 0.

 

Good luck with this. Let us know what the outcome is. Curious on the dealers diagosis and fix.

 

So my car is at Park Ave Acura in NJ. They have always been good in the past, but today they are leaving a sour taste in my mouth.

I left the car with the advisor this morning, i told him to have the techs look at the evaporator and they will see that one pipe is getting cold and the evaporator forward is not. I told him that there is an obvious blockage at this point. He really didn't seem to be listening all that well.

Now, a few hours later he calls me and tells me right off the bat that they want to replace my compressor and that it will be $1200!!! Not only that, he says that "he can't see into a crystal ball" sarcastically and that there may be other issues in the system but they want to start with the compressor.

I told him again. LOOK AT THE EVAPORATOR! Why would the piping there be COLD if I had a bad compressor? He stayed quiet and then just told me they will take a look and call me back.

Basically it seems as if they just follow a flow chart without actually troubleshooting. First on the flow chart must be to replace the compressor first then troubleshoot after?

WTF?

I am going to go pickup my car if he calls me back with more BS.

 

Well if anyone is even reading this.... lol


He just called me back and said that I need to replace the compressor to continue the troubleshooting. He said once the compressor is replaced that they can then move on to other parts.
I told him to check the High side and low side pressures and he will see that the compressor id making pressure fine on the high side, but then he cuts me off (He doesn't want to deal with someone who has some knowledge apparently, and tells me to just come to the dealership, bring the loaner back and I can talk to the tech if I want.

Can anyone tell me why he is so insistent on wanting to change the compressor first before proceeding? besides making an easy $1200 right off the bat? Or is money their only motivation. Dumb question i know.

If they actually troubleshooted, isn't there any way that they can test the compressor and be 100% sure it needs to be replaced instead of just "guessing" it needs to be replaced? Can't they pull it and hook it up to a machine?

I'm almost positive my compressor is fine. No Noises from it and no leaking which as far as I know are the two biggest tell tale signs they are bad...

 

They should be able to diagnose the problem and identify the problem component. Do you have any good Honda dealerships? I'm sure they can deal with this for you?