questions about changing brake fluid

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Old May 3, 2005 | 03:38 PM
  #1  
zigzagzig's Avatar
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Drifting
 
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From: Rockville, Maryland
questions about changing brake fluid

I'm looking to change out my brake fluid, but I have a couple questions. I looked in the FAQ section and searched, but I couldn't really find anything.

- I hear people talk about having to "bleed" the lines, but I have no clue how to do that. Also, do I HAVE to do that in order to change the fluid? So, what I'm really wondering is, is it the same method as an oil change as in: drain oil, fill oil?

- What are the steps that I have to go through and do I need any special equipment? Is there a drain plug for the brake fluid? I'm a newb with the brake service.

- Would it be more worth it to just get it done at a local gas station or something?

- What brake fluid would you all recommend?
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Old May 3, 2005 | 03:56 PM
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Smitty's Avatar
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
ewww. you are full of questions.

go see a mechanic if you have never done any brake work on a car.

Castrol GTLMA is the best brake fluid you can buy...
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Old May 3, 2005 | 03:57 PM
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runnerX's Avatar
Burning Brakes
 
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If I remember correctly from one of the repair books I read.. Bleed the line means disconnect the break fluid tube at the caliber area and let the fuild drain.
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Old May 3, 2005 | 04:01 PM
  #4  
runnerX's Avatar
Burning Brakes
 
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I think what you want to do is flush the break, not bleed. Bleed is just to get the bubbles out..

http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/BrakeMaintenanceFAQ.htm
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Old May 3, 2005 | 04:05 PM
  #5  
DRM600's Avatar
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From: Bay Area, CA
Originally Posted by runnerX
If I remember correctly from one of the repair books I read.. Bleed the line means disconnect the break fluid tube at the caliber area and let the fuild drain.
no, no, no. don't do that.

there is a screwed-in nipple on the brake caliper that is covered with a rubber cap. remove the cap and attach a piece of clear hose to the nipple. loosen the nipple and allow the fluid to drain until there are no air bubbles. that's not the entire procedure, but just the part that involves the calipers.
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Old May 3, 2005 | 04:31 PM
  #6  
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Pop the hood and look by the firewall in front of the driver's seat. You will see a reservoir. That's where your brake fluid is. Pop the cap off and set it down in a safe place.

Let's start with the front. Jack up the front of the car and take the front wheels off. Look around the calipers, and you will see where the brake lines attach to the calipers. I don't remember the correct size, but find the right size and take the bolt out. Do NOT lose this bolt, because otherwise your car will be sitting on jackstands until you can get a new one -- it's a banjo bolt with a hole inside to let the brake fluid flow.

At this point, brake fluid will start coming out of the brake line. Drain into a bowl or a container or something. Try not to spill brake fluid or get it in your eyes. If it gets on your skin, wash it off. I would recommend wearing gloves. Brake fluid is very toxic.

Anyway, do the same process on the other side and let it drain. Pump the brake pedal to let the fluid out of the lines faster. But do not let the brake fluid reservoir dry up. Fill it up with the new fluid as the level goes down. By doing this, you're replacing the brake fluid in the lines with the new fluid.

Do the same in the rear to get the fluid out. Keep filling the reservoir with the new fluid. Once you start seeing the new fluid come out (if it's a different color, then it would be very easy to spot), then it's time to start bleeding.

The correct sequence for bleeding on our cars is in the order of front driver side, front passenger side, rear passenger side, rear driver side.

At this point, the brake lines need to be reattached to the calipers. Obviously, there is air in the system and now we need to bleed the lines to get it out. Why? Because under pressure, the hydraulic brake fluid doesn't compress, but the air compresses a lot. If there is too much air in the lines, then your pedal will straight to the floor and you will lose your braking ability. That's why bleeding is important.

Anyway, following the correct sequence of bleeding, have a friend pump the pedal about 10-15 times then hold it down. It's important that he/she does not pump all the way to the floor. Have him/her put the left foot under the brake pedal and pump with the right foot. An inch or two off the floor will be good.

On the calipers, you will see a bleeder screw with a nipple on it. You need to attach a clear hose to this nipple and loosen the bleeder screw WHILE your friend is holding the pedal down. When you open the bleeder, the pedal will go down due to the loss of pressure. This is completely normal; just make sure the friend doesn't let the pedal go all the way to the floor or let go before you close the bleeder.

You will see air bubbles and/or brake fluid coming out. Once enough fluid comes out, the pressure inside the line and the atmosphere will equalize, so you need to close the bleeder before that happens, to prevent air going back into the line. Then have the friend pump it again and hold it down. Let it bleed, close bleeder, let go of brake pedal.

Repeat as many times as necessary to get all the air bubbles out. Then do it for the other 3 corners. During the process, make sure the reservoir does not dry up. Keep filling it up.

Once you're done, take the car out for a spin and trigger the ABS. There will be air trapped in the ABS modulators and you have to activate the ABS to get them out. Find a gravel road or something and activate it several times. Then go home and bleed it again.

That's it. Nothing to it.
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Old May 4, 2005 | 09:19 AM
  #7  
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If you really don't know how to do this bring it to someone who knows how. We don't want you to get hurt. Brakes are a BIG part of a car. Mess them up & you can mess yourself or others up.

If you still want to do it, get a friend to help you. It's not too hard, you just need to be carfull, & take your time.
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