Guf0923

I have a 2001 CL-S auto... I was wondering what the best thing to for the launch was? Leave it in auto and let it do its thing...drop it down to D1...put it in the tip tronic and let it do its thing from first and thent ake over from there....leave the VCS on or off...what?! I appreciate all of your guys help with this....

Scooter

VSA off, gateshift, and i personally torquebrake to around 2K

runnerX

definition of gateshift and torquebrake please...

Sorry.... I am stupid....

mr. big

what is torquebrake?? how do u do that?

runnerX

:'( :'( we have been totally ignored...

Please help!!!!

Scooter

ok nOObs

gateshift = physically putting shifter in D1 and manually going to D2, D3, D4, etc.

torquebrake = hold brake pedal with left foot...rev engine to 2K

thus endith the lesson

MistaE13A

yea, id also like to know

Fabvsix

And you wonder why transmissions are dropping like crazy....
Brake Tourqing = FAILED TRANSMISSIONS ......

Nashua_Night_Hawk

Brake Torquing is 100% safe if done right... I have more 3 dozens of 1/4 miles passes with most are with BT... still on the original tranny... just don't ride it for like a min... 2-5 sec max is needed at the X-tree lights...

typeR

i dont start to give any gas untill the first yellow light comes on,so we're talking 1 second here. with .5 second intravels...and i do this in such away as if im accelerating already meaning ,when the first light comes on i start slowly depressing the gas and i continue to give it more until i release the break just before the third yellow comes on and try to give gas at the same rate i had been,...but dont take my advice, i know nothing of launching this car ....

Wires

If you brake torque for too long, you can baloon the torque convertor (which is really bad!). Also, stalling the converter heats the oil, which is also bad for the tranny.

Done in moderation, for a short duration is ok.... just can't abuse it!

Tom2

You think that brake torquing doesn't stress anything?

Are you serious?

I'd say it's counter-productive to your car's long life.

Sly Raskal

iTrader: (1)

id' agree with tom, it's an auto matic, meant to be driven as an automatic.

if you guys wanted to drag, why didn't you get a stick in the first place? just wondering...

allmotor_2000

Gee... I just put it in first and dump the clutch

Nashua_Night_Hawk

well most drag racer are Autotragic anyways...

Bulldog01

I'm relatively new to the dragracing scene, but the 6-Speed wasn't available in '01 :thumbsdn: .

I've had the best luck gateshifting and using two feet.

CLSmike

wel i pulled a 2.07 i think in the 60 ft time id like to see some 6speeders do that

CLSmike

O and BTW i am not dogging on you 6 speeders if i could make a choice i would have 4 pedals on the floor it is just hard but possible to match an automatic in that short of a launching distance.

Scooter

hopefully, this will help dispel myths, assumptions, etc.


From C&D this month...

Tips from Mr. Dirt (Bret Kepner who's a bracket-racing teacher)

1. Don't stage deep: "...shallow staging is the better way to go. Always place the car in exactly the same place left to right in the lane."

2. Always torque it up: "with a rented car or your own automatic, brake against the torque converter after staging right up to 1800RPMs, then lift off the brake to leave. He says modern computers understand that better than just stabbing the throttle from an idle. Always turn traction control off."

3. Leave it running: "if you're racing...a late-model stocker, let it idle all day long between rounds. It will be thermally stable and very consistent in output."

4. Don't be afraid to redial: "Read what the time slip is telling you, and if your car is getting quicker or slower, as to have dial-in changed..."

5. Air is free (for the tires - obvious)

6. If you're renting, always buy the insurance (obvious)