i want them pulley's some1 get a group buy started...

 

It is a very linear power gain so it is hard to tell where it picked up the most power. Although 6000 RPM to redline is about the blink of an eye now (well not quite) but it pulls VERY HARD at 6000 RPM.

I'm going to the track Sunday for Battle of the Imports. No dyno until the RES comes out... well maybe

 

mrsteve, keep us updated on the UR pulley mod.

I have Comptech headers, Icebox, springs, sways, Unichip, and the Mugen thermostat and fan switch. I have thought about the UR pulley but have been on the fence. Not sure if the gains are worth the risk.

By the way, I am taking my TL-S into GRD Racing in Naperville, IL today for a custom tune of the Unichip. He was aware of the group buy and said he has talked with a few of the members.

They are going to check the A/F to see if it needs any adjustment. I stopped in last week and they called and talked to Jack for about 15 minutes while I was there. He said he knows Jack pretty well.

Later

 

There really isn't a "risk" Our engines are internally balanced so the "harmonic damper/balancer" that people talk about on the stock crank pulley, really isn't a "harmonic damper/balancer." After speaking with my service manager at my dealership I don't expect any problems.

 

) "Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?"

People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term that is used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications that we offer utilize a counterweight as part of the pulley as these engines are internally balanced.

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that looks similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note that in these applications, this elastomer is somewhat inadequate in size, as well as life span, to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some of the imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say that with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most who have installed and driven a vehicle with our pulleys will notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is a natural result of replacing the heavy steel crank pulley with a CNC-machined aluminum pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.

The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke, displacement, inline, V configurations, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.

Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about the pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.

 

Why not do an oil analysis with the UR crank and see if indeed something bad is happening?

 

hmm, i've been reading about these pulleys for awhile now and i can't make a choice, i'm leaning towards them now after hearing stories from peopel who have them, basically it comes down to the car, the car can either take a mod or it can't, and it looks like ours can, personally i'd get all 3 pulleys to lighten the weight of the front of the car (every little bit helps) especially since they now have the 12v pulley out now

 

Weird but today while i was driving all the squeaks were gone.

 

gonna order the pulleys next week...

https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/prt,64,K060441

thats where i'll order the gates belt, i'll get the pulley from nopi.

is it possible to do the install DIY? if not, how much to get it installed?

 

anywere from $50 (if your mechanic is a CLOSE FRIEND) to $100 (if mechanic knows you or is nice) to $150 (if mechanic is good and takes more than an hour.

 

My dealer charged me $162.50. That price is based on 2.5/hours of work at $65/hr.

 

DIY requires a strong arm to move that breaker bar and a torque wrench capable of torquing the crank nut to 181ft/lbs, most only go up to 150. Then again, you can always just place the breaker bar, and lower the car and hope nothing breaks other than the death grip of that bolt.

 

Glad to hear you got installed with no issues Steve.

 

I def want to try this myself if it can be done. Has anyone done this and can they give a rundown on how its done...and where would be the best site to buy them from.