Panel filters - are they worth it?
Panel filters - are they worth it?
I don't want to fool with an CAI right now (maybe summer) so for now is a panel filter worth more than not having to change it again?
I almost have 10k miles and checked my air filter the other day and it was black it was so dirty. Need to change it so I wondered if I should just get another OEM, Comptech, or K&N.
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'01 CLS Red/Parchment-all the goodies
I almost have 10k miles and checked my air filter the other day and it was black it was so dirty. Need to change it so I wondered if I should just get another OEM, Comptech, or K&N.
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'01 CLS Red/Parchment-all the goodies
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by davo-cls:
I don't want to fool with an CAI right now (maybe summer) so for now is a panel filter worth more than not having to change it again?
I almost have 10k miles and checked my air filter the other day and it was black it was so dirty. Need to change it so I wondered if I should just get another OEM, Comptech, or K&N.
</font>
I don't want to fool with an CAI right now (maybe summer) so for now is a panel filter worth more than not having to change it again?
I almost have 10k miles and checked my air filter the other day and it was black it was so dirty. Need to change it so I wondered if I should just get another OEM, Comptech, or K&N.
</font>
I found a part number for a K&N filter. The Maxima got 4hp from just the K&N (yep, old news here). I couldn't find any claims on the K&N for the CLS. Does anyone know?
(may still get a CAI, if I can make sure the bypass valve doesn't fly apart and get ingested by the engine...)
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2001 Satin Silver Cl-S w/ NAVI
- Mud Guards
- Wheel locks
- Toyo 235/45ZR17-97W* T1S Proxies on Stock 17" CLS wheels
- Gtech 1/8th tank 40F ~=6.1
- Zaino magic
- 14.8lb 17x8" SSR Competition rims on the way
- Sways, headers, CAI comming soon
Comptech's filter is made by Uni filters and is foam. K&N is like a cotton gauze material. I've used K&N in the past and was happy with it, but I was wondering what people thought of Comptech's filter.
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'01 CLS Red/Parchment-all the goodies
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'01 CLS Red/Parchment-all the goodies
i have woundered what the filters do myself, there cheap though.
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Nick
01' Cl-S Silver/ Black W/ Navi
V-1 Radar Hard Wired, Limo Tint all around
Comptech Headers, Sways, and AEM CAI
I've got one of CLS's from the fast batch.
Lead Foot
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Nick
01' Cl-S Silver/ Black W/ Navi
V-1 Radar Hard Wired, Limo Tint all around
Comptech Headers, Sways, and AEM CAI
I've got one of CLS's from the fast batch.
Lead Foot
sorry for asking a stupid question, but is the air filter for the air condition? and does it have to be replaced regularly? and about how much do they cost?
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17 Yr Old Owner of a Silver CL-P, w/ spoiler, wood trim kit, mud flaps and soon some new rims
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17 Yr Old Owner of a Silver CL-P, w/ spoiler, wood trim kit, mud flaps and soon some new rims
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by silverstreak01:
sorry for asking a stupid question, but is the air filter for the air condition? and does it have to be replaced regularly? and about how much do they cost?
</font>
sorry for asking a stupid question, but is the air filter for the air condition? and does it have to be replaced regularly? and about how much do they cost?
</font>
One air filter is for the engine.
The air filter you are talking about is the full "HEPA"/charcoal air filter for the passengers (inside of the car). I am not sure about this, but I think it should last about a year. You could always replace it early, if you wanted to (my opinion, not Acura's or the manual's).
The minimum change interval is listed in the owner's manual. My manual is in the car *and* I'm not -- sorry!
Why you may want to replace early:
I have allergies, so my residence is filled with big cannister air filters with charcoal/HEPA filters (like our car's, but much bigger). I'm in Los Angeles and the air is no nasty that I have to replace the air filter elements 4 times more often than the manufacturer of my home units recommends.
(just some thoughts)
------------------
2001 Satin Silver Cl-S w/ NAVI
- Mud Guards
- Wheel locks
- Toyo 235/45ZR17-97W* T1S Proxies on Stock 17" CLS wheels
- Gtech 1/8th tank 40F ~=6.1
- Zaino magic
- 14.8lb 17x8" SSR Competition rims on the way
- Sways, headers, CAI comming soon
Without entering the debate over how much power these aftermarket filters make or do not make thee is one big plus.They last virtually forever.Every once in awhile they require cleaning which is easily doen with the correct filter cleaning kit for the filter in question.So if you buy one today in ten years assuming you still have the car and cleaned the filter on a regular basis you save quite a bit of money.Jens
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1992 mazda Miata lowered with Eibach springs KYB AGX adjustable struts Sparco racing buckets 4 point safety harnesses Momo steering wheel lo profile headlite system with PIAA superwhite bulbs Custom audio system Custom gauges Jackson racing supercharger with header and Greddy cat back exhaust and a ton of other stuff 2000 Honda Civic on APEX coilovers Full Alpine Audio system factory fogs with Piaa bulbs Catz ZETA high beam headlamp system H.I.D. Xenon low beam tinted, custom taillites and on and on
------------------
1992 mazda Miata lowered with Eibach springs KYB AGX adjustable struts Sparco racing buckets 4 point safety harnesses Momo steering wheel lo profile headlite system with PIAA superwhite bulbs Custom audio system Custom gauges Jackson racing supercharger with header and Greddy cat back exhaust and a ton of other stuff 2000 Honda Civic on APEX coilovers Full Alpine Audio system factory fogs with Piaa bulbs Catz ZETA high beam headlamp system H.I.D. Xenon low beam tinted, custom taillites and on and on
Trending Topics
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Jens Heydel:
Without entering the debate over how much power these aftermarket filters make or do not make thee is one big plus.They last virtually forever.Every once in awhile they require cleaning which is easily doen with the correct filter cleaning kit for the filter in question.So if you buy one today in ten years assuming you still have the car and cleaned the filter on a regular basis you save quite a bit of money.Jens
</font>
Without entering the debate over how much power these aftermarket filters make or do not make thee is one big plus.They last virtually forever.Every once in awhile they require cleaning which is easily doen with the correct filter cleaning kit for the filter in question.So if you buy one today in ten years assuming you still have the car and cleaned the filter on a regular basis you save quite a bit of money.Jens
</font>
)
The paper throw away units are usually finished at the 30 k service and should be replaced at that point but we inspect them at every 7500 mile interval as some people live and drive in areas that can clog up the filter sooner.Jens
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1992 mazda Miata lowered with Eibach springs KYB AGX adjustable struts Sparco racing buckets 4 point safety harnesses Momo steering wheel lo profile headlite system with PIAA superwhite bulbs Custom audio system Custom gauges Jackson racing supercharger with header and Greddy cat back exhaust and a ton of other stuff 2000 Honda Civic on APEX coilovers Full Alpine Audio system factory fogs with Piaa bulbs Catz ZETA high beam headlamp system H.I.D. Xenon low beam tinted, custom taillites and on and on
------------------
1992 mazda Miata lowered with Eibach springs KYB AGX adjustable struts Sparco racing buckets 4 point safety harnesses Momo steering wheel lo profile headlite system with PIAA superwhite bulbs Custom audio system Custom gauges Jackson racing supercharger with header and Greddy cat back exhaust and a ton of other stuff 2000 Honda Civic on APEX coilovers Full Alpine Audio system factory fogs with Piaa bulbs Catz ZETA high beam headlamp system H.I.D. Xenon low beam tinted, custom taillites and on and on
davo-cls: You might want to do some research into the K&N Filterchargers before you plop for one. It would be an understatement to say that there's some controversy over whether the incremental increase in airflow from a drop-in is worth the possible increase in allowing silicates (dust) through, which would accelerate engine wear. Granted, this is a non-issue with race engines (which are expected to fail for other reasons), but it's something to consider for a car you're likely to keep for quite a few years.
Here's a few links that discuss both sides of this controversy, some referencing test results:
http://www.gis.nsw.gov.au/staff/rnot...&NFilters.html
http://syclone.missouri.edu/archives.../msg00134.html
http://fourps.wharton.upenn.edu/~sim.../msg01279.html
http://integra.vtec.net/air/knconcern.html
http://www.jogger-egg.com/kbob/filter-test.pdf
There's a whole lot more you can find (K&N's have been around forever) just by searching for "K&N test" on www.google.com
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051/LP/SR/LD/HH
Here's a few links that discuss both sides of this controversy, some referencing test results:
http://www.gis.nsw.gov.au/staff/rnot...&NFilters.html
http://syclone.missouri.edu/archives.../msg00134.html
http://fourps.wharton.upenn.edu/~sim.../msg01279.html
http://integra.vtec.net/air/knconcern.html
http://www.jogger-egg.com/kbob/filter-test.pdf
There's a whole lot more you can find (K&N's have been around forever) just by searching for "K&N test" on www.google.com
------------------
051/LP/SR/LD/HH
I have the K&N drop in filter and pretty happy w/ it. Not much noticable HP gain but I know its better than the stock. Plus I'm planing on taking out my resonator and this should allow more air for my K&N intake.
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CL-S
White/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Visor/Full Bra/Mud Guards/Cargo Net/Acura Car Cover/Tint 20%,35%,5% on Sun Roof, Rockford 250a2 Amp w/JL10w6 / K&N Drop in Filter. Comptech Springs. Polarg m-6.
Comptech Headers, Comptech Sways, Eurolite Xenon Crystal high beams.
AEM CAI once they decide to make the dame thing.
235/40/17's or 225/45/17's once I found out which one works for me.
gtech 0-60 6.03 w/ 438 pound load. preheader.
------------------
CL-S
White/Ebony/Navi/Spoiler/Visor/Full Bra/Mud Guards/Cargo Net/Acura Car Cover/Tint 20%,35%,5% on Sun Roof, Rockford 250a2 Amp w/JL10w6 / K&N Drop in Filter. Comptech Springs. Polarg m-6.
Comptech Headers, Comptech Sways, Eurolite Xenon Crystal high beams.
AEM CAI once they decide to make the dame thing.
235/40/17's or 225/45/17's once I found out which one works for me.
gtech 0-60 6.03 w/ 438 pound load. preheader.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by DtEW:
davo-cls: You might want to do some research into the K&N Filterchargers before you plop for one. It would be an understatement to say that there's some controversy over whether the incremental increase in airflow from a drop-in is worth the possible increase in allowing silicates (dust) through, which would accelerate engine wear. Granted, this is a non-issue with race engines (which are expected to fail for other reasons), but it's something to consider for a car you're likely to keep for quite a few years.
Here's a few links that discuss both sides of this controversy, some referencing test results:
http://www.gis.nsw.gov.au/staff/rnot...&NFilters.html
http://syclone.missouri.edu/archives.../msg00134.html
http://fourps.wharton.upenn.edu/~sim.../msg01279.html
http://integra.vtec.net/air/knconcern.html
http://www.jogger-egg.com/kbob/filter-test.pdf
There's a whole lot more you can find (K&N's have been around forever) just by searching for "K&N test" on www.google.com
</font>
davo-cls: You might want to do some research into the K&N Filterchargers before you plop for one. It would be an understatement to say that there's some controversy over whether the incremental increase in airflow from a drop-in is worth the possible increase in allowing silicates (dust) through, which would accelerate engine wear. Granted, this is a non-issue with race engines (which are expected to fail for other reasons), but it's something to consider for a car you're likely to keep for quite a few years.
Here's a few links that discuss both sides of this controversy, some referencing test results:
http://www.gis.nsw.gov.au/staff/rnot...&NFilters.html
http://syclone.missouri.edu/archives.../msg00134.html
http://fourps.wharton.upenn.edu/~sim.../msg01279.html
http://integra.vtec.net/air/knconcern.html
http://www.jogger-egg.com/kbob/filter-test.pdf
There's a whole lot more you can find (K&N's have been around forever) just by searching for "K&N test" on www.google.com
</font>
There is so much fine dust in the air these days. Now tires have slica in them.
------------------
2001 Satin Silver Cl-S w/ NAVI
- Mud Guards
- Wheel locks
- Toyo 235/45ZR17-97W* T1S Proxies on Stock 17" CLS wheels
- Gtech 1/8th tank 40F ~=6.1
- Zaino magic
- 14.8lb 17x8" SSR Competition rims on the way
- Sways, headers, CAI comming soon
To access the interior air filters you will need a phillips screw driver a pocket flat blade screw driver and a sharp knife.Open the glove box and empty it of whatever you have been hiding in there.
there is a air piston on the right side that slows the opening speed it is attached to the door with a screw,remove the screw, pop of the air piston.
There are two stops on the inside the glove box, pop both out with the small flatbade.
The glovebox will now open downwards,there are two phillips screws holding the door to the dashboard structure,remove both screws the door can now be removed.
You will now see two phillips screws that appear to hold nothing inplace,remove these leave the metal clips in place.
There is a serrated panel visible it must be cut away from the dash board structure,save this panel as it is to be reused later.
There is now a vertical white plastic panel visible that can be snapped out of the way and removed.
The filters are the two vertical boxes now visible,remove the bottom one first by pulling it towards you then lower the upper one and remove it as well.
Exchange the filters noting that they have arrows on them for airflow,the boxes that contain the filters are marked as well.Install the filters in the boxes and reassemble the filters in to the airbox.Take the white panel and snap it back inplace.
Now take the previously cut out plastic panel and turn it so the two hooks engage the two slots in the dash structure,the two screws that did not do anything are now used to secure this panel in place.
Reassemble the glovebox in reverse fashion from disassembly.
This job should take you about twenty minutes or less.
Jens
------------------
1992 mazda Miata lowered with Eibach springs KYB AGX adjustable struts Sparco racing buckets 4 point safety harnesses Momo steering wheel lo profile headlite system with PIAA superwhite bulbs Custom audio system Custom gauges Jackson racing supercharger with header and Greddy cat back exhaust and a ton of other stuff 2000 Honda Civic on APEX coilovers Full Alpine Audio system factory fogs with Piaa bulbs Catz ZETA high beam headlamp system H.I.D. Xenon low beam tinted, custom taillites and on and on
there is a air piston on the right side that slows the opening speed it is attached to the door with a screw,remove the screw, pop of the air piston.
There are two stops on the inside the glove box, pop both out with the small flatbade.
The glovebox will now open downwards,there are two phillips screws holding the door to the dashboard structure,remove both screws the door can now be removed.
You will now see two phillips screws that appear to hold nothing inplace,remove these leave the metal clips in place.
There is a serrated panel visible it must be cut away from the dash board structure,save this panel as it is to be reused later.
There is now a vertical white plastic panel visible that can be snapped out of the way and removed.
The filters are the two vertical boxes now visible,remove the bottom one first by pulling it towards you then lower the upper one and remove it as well.
Exchange the filters noting that they have arrows on them for airflow,the boxes that contain the filters are marked as well.Install the filters in the boxes and reassemble the filters in to the airbox.Take the white panel and snap it back inplace.
Now take the previously cut out plastic panel and turn it so the two hooks engage the two slots in the dash structure,the two screws that did not do anything are now used to secure this panel in place.
Reassemble the glovebox in reverse fashion from disassembly.
This job should take you about twenty minutes or less.
Jens
------------------
1992 mazda Miata lowered with Eibach springs KYB AGX adjustable struts Sparco racing buckets 4 point safety harnesses Momo steering wheel lo profile headlite system with PIAA superwhite bulbs Custom audio system Custom gauges Jackson racing supercharger with header and Greddy cat back exhaust and a ton of other stuff 2000 Honda Civic on APEX coilovers Full Alpine Audio system factory fogs with Piaa bulbs Catz ZETA high beam headlamp system H.I.D. Xenon low beam tinted, custom taillites and on and on
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by DtEW:
Here's a few links that discuss both sides of this controversy, some referencing test results:
[URL=http://www.gis.nsw.gov.au/staff/rnott/bmw/BMWText/technical/K&NFilters.html]</font>
Here's a few links that discuss both sides of this controversy, some referencing test results:
[URL=http://www.gis.nsw.gov.au/staff/rnott/bmw/BMWText/technical/K&NFilters.html]</font>
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'01 CLS Red/Parchment-all the goodies
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Jens Heydel:
To access the interior air filters you will need a phillips screw driver a pocket flat blade screw driver and a sharp knife.Open the glove box and empty it of whatever you have been hiding in there.
there is a air piston on the right side that slows the opening speed it is attached to the door with a screw,remove the screw, pop of the air piston.
There are two stops on the inside the glove box, pop both out with the small flatbade.
The glovebox will now open downwards,there are two phillips screws holding the door to the dashboard structure,remove both screws the door can now be removed.
You will now see two phillips screws that appear to hold nothing inplace,remove these leave the metal clips in place.
There is a serrated panel visible it must be cut away from the dash board structure,save this panel as it is to be reused later.
There is now a vertical white plastic panel visible that can be snapped out of the way and removed.
The filters are the two vertical boxes now visible,remove the bottom one first by pulling it towards you then lower the upper one and remove it as well.
Exchange the filters noting that they have arrows on them for airflow,the boxes that contain the filters are marked as well.Install the filters in the boxes and reassemble the filters in to the airbox.Take the white panel and snap it back inplace.
Now take the previously cut out plastic panel and turn it so the two hooks engage the two slots in the dash structure,the two screws that did not do anything are now used to secure this panel in place.
Reassemble the glovebox in reverse fashion from disassembly.
This job should take you about twenty minutes or less.
Jens
</font>
To access the interior air filters you will need a phillips screw driver a pocket flat blade screw driver and a sharp knife.Open the glove box and empty it of whatever you have been hiding in there.
there is a air piston on the right side that slows the opening speed it is attached to the door with a screw,remove the screw, pop of the air piston.
There are two stops on the inside the glove box, pop both out with the small flatbade.
The glovebox will now open downwards,there are two phillips screws holding the door to the dashboard structure,remove both screws the door can now be removed.
You will now see two phillips screws that appear to hold nothing inplace,remove these leave the metal clips in place.
There is a serrated panel visible it must be cut away from the dash board structure,save this panel as it is to be reused later.
There is now a vertical white plastic panel visible that can be snapped out of the way and removed.
The filters are the two vertical boxes now visible,remove the bottom one first by pulling it towards you then lower the upper one and remove it as well.
Exchange the filters noting that they have arrows on them for airflow,the boxes that contain the filters are marked as well.Install the filters in the boxes and reassemble the filters in to the airbox.Take the white panel and snap it back inplace.
Now take the previously cut out plastic panel and turn it so the two hooks engage the two slots in the dash structure,the two screws that did not do anything are now used to secure this panel in place.
Reassemble the glovebox in reverse fashion from disassembly.
This job should take you about twenty minutes or less.
Jens
</font>
BTW did u say you would try to see if the TL S headrest will fit the CL S headrests this week if you have time???
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Sundance,Navi,
Spoiler, mflaps, wheel well trim, dark dark tint, nose mask, polarg m6's, lead foot
It sounds alot more complex than it really is with practice we can do this in about 5 minutes here in the shop.Yes if I get a chance I will try the headrest thing.Jens
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1992 mazda Miata lowered with Eibach springs KYB AGX adjustable struts Sparco racing buckets 4 point safety harnesses Momo steering wheel lo profile headlite system with PIAA superwhite bulbs Custom audio system Custom gauges Jackson racing supercharger with header and Greddy cat back exhaust and a ton of other stuff 2000 Honda Civic on APEX coilovers Full Alpine Audio system factory fogs with Piaa bulbs Catz ZETA high beam headlamp system H.I.D. Xenon low beam tinted, custom taillites and on and on
------------------
1992 mazda Miata lowered with Eibach springs KYB AGX adjustable struts Sparco racing buckets 4 point safety harnesses Momo steering wheel lo profile headlite system with PIAA superwhite bulbs Custom audio system Custom gauges Jackson racing supercharger with header and Greddy cat back exhaust and a ton of other stuff 2000 Honda Civic on APEX coilovers Full Alpine Audio system factory fogs with Piaa bulbs Catz ZETA high beam headlamp system H.I.D. Xenon low beam tinted, custom taillites and on and on
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by davo-cls:
According to the test in this link, it looks like an oiled foam filter is the way to go if you're looking for a drop in replacement.</font>
According to the test in this link, it looks like an oiled foam filter is the way to go if you're looking for a drop in replacement.</font>
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051/LP/SR/LD/HH
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