Painting Question
Painting Question
would it be okay to paint the chrome parts on the 01, i think i may have my bodyshop do it, and have my car totally black. but will it mess up the plastic? or chip????
Yea, it can be done, but if I were you, I wouldn't. I know paint like the back of my hand. First, that "Chrome" you see ISN'T chrome! It is a mylar polyester film made to look like chrome, and it is slick. Paint does not stick to slick. It has to be sanded to provide some "tooth", some grip.
Second, you need to match the gloss level to look nice. You know how to do this? Probably not, but I do, and in order to get a decent reading I need a minimum spot of about 1/2 inch square.
Three, you will loathe the day the first spec of black comes off the shiney stuff, then, you must repaint again, or strip all the black and now look at your scuffed up "chrome" look.
Trust me buddy, I paint liquid and powder for a living, and you are headed down the wrong road. BIG TIME!
Second, you need to match the gloss level to look nice. You know how to do this? Probably not, but I do, and in order to get a decent reading I need a minimum spot of about 1/2 inch square.
Three, you will loathe the day the first spec of black comes off the shiney stuff, then, you must repaint again, or strip all the black and now look at your scuffed up "chrome" look.
Trust me buddy, I paint liquid and powder for a living, and you are headed down the wrong road. BIG TIME!
Originally posted by dfreder370
Yea, it can be done, but if I were you, I wouldn't. I know paint like the back of my hand. First, that "Chrome" you see ISN'T chrome! It is a mylar polyester film made to look like chrome, and it is slick. Paint does not stick to slick. It has to be sanded to provide some "tooth", some grip.
Second, you need to match the gloss level to look nice. You know how to do this? Probably not, but I do, and in order to get a decent reading I need a minimum spot of about 1/2 inch square.
Three, you will loathe the day the first spec of black comes off the shiney stuff, then, you must repaint again, or strip all the black and now look at your scuffed up "chrome" look.
Trust me buddy, I paint liquid and powder for a living, and you are headed down the wrong road. BIG TIME!
Yea, it can be done, but if I were you, I wouldn't. I know paint like the back of my hand. First, that "Chrome" you see ISN'T chrome! It is a mylar polyester film made to look like chrome, and it is slick. Paint does not stick to slick. It has to be sanded to provide some "tooth", some grip.
Second, you need to match the gloss level to look nice. You know how to do this? Probably not, but I do, and in order to get a decent reading I need a minimum spot of about 1/2 inch square.
Three, you will loathe the day the first spec of black comes off the shiney stuff, then, you must repaint again, or strip all the black and now look at your scuffed up "chrome" look.
Trust me buddy, I paint liquid and powder for a living, and you are headed down the wrong road. BIG TIME!
Trust me. This is NOT a good idea. Here is why:
Number one. That "chrome trim is a pressure sensitive layer of adhesive first (that goes against the trim piece, sticks to the car), the middle layer is the "chrome" (actually is is sputter deposited or vaporized aluminum, and the outer layer is clear mylar. You must find a paint that will not dissolve the mylar. If it does, you are REALLY SCREWED!
Two: See that chrome trim arounf the rear seat passenger windows? That is NOT replaceable. It is an integral part of the window. Fuck up that trim? I am guessing at $300 per window. This little painting experiment is starting to get ugly and expensive.
Three: Think about this for a while. Black painted trim was a big rage in the 90s, especially on domestics. I have probably seen 500 cars in the last ten years that had this and the paint peeled. Looks like shit!
Four: In order for paint to stick, paint need a clean, dry surface that has some "tooth". That is painting slang for nooks and crannies for the paint to bite into. This is why I mentioned you have to rough up the surface with sandpaper, because otherwise, mylar is slicker than snot. And in the process of doing this, you risk scratching the body paint AND the glass.
Did you ever start anything with the best of intentions, and 25% of the way into the task say to yourself "man, I wish I had never started this?" This is where you are heading.
I am a three time over patented paint professional in automotive painting for a fortune 100 company who supplies paint equipment for powder coating and liquid painting car bodies and trim. My auto painting experience spans 29 years. And I am telling you, DON'T DO THIS.
I don't want to post a reply later that says "Itold you so."
Number one. That "chrome trim is a pressure sensitive layer of adhesive first (that goes against the trim piece, sticks to the car), the middle layer is the "chrome" (actually is is sputter deposited or vaporized aluminum, and the outer layer is clear mylar. You must find a paint that will not dissolve the mylar. If it does, you are REALLY SCREWED!
Two: See that chrome trim arounf the rear seat passenger windows? That is NOT replaceable. It is an integral part of the window. Fuck up that trim? I am guessing at $300 per window. This little painting experiment is starting to get ugly and expensive.
Three: Think about this for a while. Black painted trim was a big rage in the 90s, especially on domestics. I have probably seen 500 cars in the last ten years that had this and the paint peeled. Looks like shit!
Four: In order for paint to stick, paint need a clean, dry surface that has some "tooth". That is painting slang for nooks and crannies for the paint to bite into. This is why I mentioned you have to rough up the surface with sandpaper, because otherwise, mylar is slicker than snot. And in the process of doing this, you risk scratching the body paint AND the glass.
Did you ever start anything with the best of intentions, and 25% of the way into the task say to yourself "man, I wish I had never started this?" This is where you are heading.
I am a three time over patented paint professional in automotive painting for a fortune 100 company who supplies paint equipment for powder coating and liquid painting car bodies and trim. My auto painting experience spans 29 years. And I am telling you, DON'T DO THIS.
I don't want to post a reply later that says "Itold you so."
Originally posted by dfreder370
Trust me. This is NOT a good idea. Here is why:
Number one. That "chrome trim is a pressure sensitive layer of adhesive first (that goes against the trim piece, sticks to the car), the middle layer is the "chrome" (actually is is sputter deposited or vaporized aluminum, and the outer layer is clear mylar. You must find a paint that will not dissolve the mylar. If it does, you are REALLY SCREWED!
Two: See that chrome trim arounf the rear seat passenger windows? That is NOT replaceable. It is an integral part of the window. Fuck up that trim? I am guessing at $300 per window. This little painting experiment is starting to get ugly and expensive.
Three: Think about this for a while. Black painted trim was a big rage in the 90s, especially on domestics. I have probably seen 500 cars in the last ten years that had this and the paint peeled. Looks like shit!
Four: In order for paint to stick, paint need a clean, dry surface that has some "tooth". That is painting slang for nooks and crannies for the paint to bite into. This is why I mentioned you have to rough up the surface with sandpaper, because otherwise, mylar is slicker than snot. And in the process of doing this, you risk scratching the body paint AND the glass.
Did you ever start anything with the best of intentions, and 25% of the way into the task say to yourself "man, I wish I had never started this?" This is where you are heading.
I am a three time over patented paint professional in automotive painting for a fortune 100 company who supplies paint equipment for powder coating and liquid painting car bodies and trim. My auto painting experience spans 29 years. And I am telling you, DON'T DO THIS.
I don't want to post a reply later that says "Itold you so."
Trust me. This is NOT a good idea. Here is why:
Number one. That "chrome trim is a pressure sensitive layer of adhesive first (that goes against the trim piece, sticks to the car), the middle layer is the "chrome" (actually is is sputter deposited or vaporized aluminum, and the outer layer is clear mylar. You must find a paint that will not dissolve the mylar. If it does, you are REALLY SCREWED!
Two: See that chrome trim arounf the rear seat passenger windows? That is NOT replaceable. It is an integral part of the window. Fuck up that trim? I am guessing at $300 per window. This little painting experiment is starting to get ugly and expensive.
Three: Think about this for a while. Black painted trim was a big rage in the 90s, especially on domestics. I have probably seen 500 cars in the last ten years that had this and the paint peeled. Looks like shit!
Four: In order for paint to stick, paint need a clean, dry surface that has some "tooth". That is painting slang for nooks and crannies for the paint to bite into. This is why I mentioned you have to rough up the surface with sandpaper, because otherwise, mylar is slicker than snot. And in the process of doing this, you risk scratching the body paint AND the glass.
Did you ever start anything with the best of intentions, and 25% of the way into the task say to yourself "man, I wish I had never started this?" This is where you are heading.
I am a three time over patented paint professional in automotive painting for a fortune 100 company who supplies paint equipment for powder coating and liquid painting car bodies and trim. My auto painting experience spans 29 years. And I am telling you, DON'T DO THIS.
I don't want to post a reply later that says "Itold you so."
Trending Topics
GTKrocket: I do not give one whit about how people modify their cars, but I know paint. And there ar SO MANY WAYS to get into trouble, it ain't funny.
People want the exteriors of their cars to look nice. I can understand the look he wants, I want to make him understand it won't last forever, maybe three weeks. Trim is tough to paint. In fact, trim is now DESIGNED for paint, first and formost, if so desired. Acura 2003 trim or ealier, is not designed to be painted. Period.
People want the exteriors of their cars to look nice. I can understand the look he wants, I want to make him understand it won't last forever, maybe three weeks. Trim is tough to paint. In fact, trim is now DESIGNED for paint, first and formost, if so desired. Acura 2003 trim or ealier, is not designed to be painted. Period.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
merc009
3G TL (2004-2008)
21
Oct 3, 2015 12:59 AM


