The dent came from when the Mechanic went to go torque the header.... and when he did that he went alittle too far with his ratchet (clickie turny thing) or his air ratchet.... causing the dent... when he went to torque the remaining nuts, he put small scrathes in the ceramic coating.... not only that , but he noticed he got finger marks and grease on the headers from the install... so when he was done, he took some prep solvent and wiped them down.... Now this an educated guess.... you can just call me Quincey.... i solved the crime...ROFLOL..

who knows, who cares what happened, deal with it... Everyone stated what to do, but this guy is too cheap and doesn't have the resources to get it done..Bottom line..

Although this should not be a flame thread, I think it should, because i would be embarrased to even post those shitty headers.

Smitty

 

I dunno, I kind of want people to post experiences like this.
It kind of serves as a heads up for what can go wrong.
It also may factor into some peoples' decisions on which headers to buy.
As for embarrassment, I don't think there should be any embarrassment involved with anyone except maybe the manufacturer of the headers and maybe the installer of the headers depending on who, in fact, caused the problem.

As far as flaming goes, I don't think any thread needs to be a flame thread, and I think the person who has this problem with his headers is the last person who should be flamed.

Also, there are plenty of "I have Comptech, only losers buy OBX" threads going around right now and I think the people who already bought Comptech should grow up. There's nothing wrong with someone trying a lower-cost solution and we all benefit from knowing whether the OBX headers hold up or not.

Just my .02, and I guess you can flame me too if it makes you feel better.

 

I talked to and showed the photo to a guy I work with that has ceramic coated headers on his Mustang GT.
He has never seen anything like this.
He said his turned BROWN after a couple of weeks, but still look the same after 5-years and 50,000 plus miles.

His opinion is that the metal wasn’t clean when the ceramic was applied or they weren’t properly “cured” after it was done.
Either way, the owner of the car should NOT be responsible for this.

Shawn S

 

One thing to add a new OBX ceramic headers should be installed Today!... if no flaking and peeling happens... then one can assume some kind of damage was due to abuse or installer fault... who knows only time will tell...

 

Thank you...

 

I think you have 50% clue what your talking about... I agree with you on one hand when you talk about that everyone will learn from this... but then I disagree for your comments about the gentlemen on this board that have CompTech that need to grow up.... It is a common fact and you can go ask anyone about headers.... YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!!!!!!,,, and if you gonna drive a 30K car and put half ass products on it then knock yourself out....

Smitty

 

wow..that doesn't look good at all :shakehd:

 

This is probably the smartest thing I've read so far. I will make sure he reads it.


Not everyone buys their cars new. This was a used CLS and my friend still goes to school (med student). Unlike some of us, this was his first experience in modding a car, and frankly he only did it because he was too hyped up about the CLS and from what he reads on this board (my fault for pointing this board out to him ).

As for flaming...why and what for? He does feel embarrased about it...and frankly he was never going to post it. But I feel that EVERYONE can benefit from this experience, so after a long debate, I convinced him that I will take full responsibility and leave him anonymous. I convinved him that no matter what experience you go through, good or bad, that this would be his way of contributing to the information database that we have here, that at one point or another have benefited from.

HELL...I got flamed BAD about wanting to install Neuspeed race sways in my TLS, and to this day they still work fine. I got Injen CAI when everyone was telling me to go AEM, and I went for Thermal R&D exhausts because Tim (aka Snook) was selling them and noone had any pictures, so I bought them to be different and took pictures for his site. People were even hesitant to put 100W highs and 80W fog bulbs so I put them on to test it out (still works...no signs of burning), and the list goes on and on.

The point I'm trying to make is that I was under the assumption that this board's purpose was for Acura car enthusiats to get together and solve problems, and to try to make our cars better (in any way). Flaming should be set aside for trolls and newbies only who don't contribute anything.

P.S.
I'm a wee bit upset because I was the primary person that convinced him to go ceramic because noone else had them. He even went out and bought a used digicam JUST so he can take pics to show me (he's in east coast...im in west)

At this point, the only thing I could have done different was that I should of tried ceramic headers first.

 

Nah, more like your fault in general since you told him to buy that crap, and your just trying to cover your ass and find a resolution for him...... Sure we learned from his experience, it was a good laugh for me.... It is not his fault at all... He probably listened to you from step one till now...... If I was him I would beat your ass for recommending that cheap shit... I just like to rub it in... I don;t think I am really all that hard up on you guys...Go see Deansbluesi (Dean Batey) and do it right the first time..

And I am still trying to figure out why you guys are blowing money you don't have on your used whips.... For what?.. to be badass?.... ROFLOL.... yeah, badass alright.... more like stupid ass... spend your money on beer and park your car, do us all a favor...

Smitty

 

:thumbsdn:

So what does this make you? You think you are better then anyone here? Why don't you do US a favor and just leave this thread alone prick.

 

If you never try anything, you get to always be right and never make mistakes.

There's a lot of stuff that needs both good and bad input and "flaming" the person who tried is not helpful to "pioneers" who are trying a new product (for whatever reason).

I've paid top dollar at times only to find I got screwed by some "rookie" with all-thumbs (and no brains) who "muffed" a job that could have been great.

Thanks for the input. If people are afraid to "expose" what can and can't work, a lot of people are going to be following in the same path...


Another Recent ACL Statute:

"Any ACL member who tries and fails on first attempt to install an aftermarket bolt-on or improvement shall be sentenced to 100-lashes and be flamed between the passing of the new and full moon. ACL members who have demostrated the ability to never make mistakes shall be present and witness the 'purging' of misguided experimenter at the nearest drag strip or ‘underground’ racing arena..."


Excerpt from the ACL's Inquisition handbook. See Experiments 1:3


(j/k)

 

wow, so the guy with the peeled header is going to take it off, send it back for a replacement (go SS now?), then reinstall it? That's like 3 times installation (including the first time)...what a pain in the a** !!! I'm glad I went SS and mummified it.

 

Dude, stop! Okay...much better....it was probably a manufaturing defect for as much as I like to poke fun at OBX....don't always blame the install...since that peeling shouldn't ever occur...

 

Oh yeah edalang....take the picture of the headers, and send it to OBX....and get a new set first, and then bring it by the shop...and my friend will do the install....no dents...

 

When you send the pictures, don't show the tube with the "dent". Did the other bank blister and peel?

 

Whats the matter?... I hit the nail on the head ..huh? thats what I thought .....Awwww. So, sorry I spoke the truth....One minute, your gonna tell your buddy to read that I posted what possible happened and the next your pissed because I called you out..

Smitty

p.s. Where did you read that I thought I was better than anyone on this board????......If your brains were Dynomite, you could not even blow your nose.....

 

Some info from one of the ceramic sites:

http://www.magma.ca/~rld/krome.htm

"The most common failure we see is header coatings that have become dulled from thermal stress; the polished coating has lost its shine and, in severe examples, has even delaminated from the base metal. It would be easy to blame materials and or application methods for these failures.

Consider for a moment what we are asking of this exhaust part; we are talking about an engineered set of metal tubes required to handle 1000 + degree flame & smoke, thousands of times a minute. All polishable ceramic coatings are limited by a maximum extended temperature exposure of 1350 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a proven limit, backed by physics. The shinable layer is adversely affected by overheating past a certain time/temp, and maximum exhaust gas heat determines when the polished surface begins to lose its shine.

You may claim that your exhaust temps will never reach this high limit on the street, and you would probably be correct. That is unless you have an overly rich induction situation, or a badly retarded ignition setting, or both. Either is instant death to a header coating without special undercoatings to buffer the heat...[/b]

(they missed the too-lean part too. but..)

Here is an excerpt about color (I have some blue in my headers):

"In my opinion... some blue on the ol' headers is OK. It suggests that, at least the engine runs. If you are really worried about it... then I suggest two sets of headers; Show Headers & Go Headers. Problem solved. Now, if you like... you can Ceramic/Metallic coat your headers. It's a nice finish, but doesn't reflect like chrome (but close) AND NO BLUE!
This is a good alternative. There are a few precautions to take regardless which way you go. Yes, Ceramic has its problems too. Both Chrome & Ceramic change physically at 1250 degrees. Chrome blues, and ceramic gets a little dull. A really good tune on the engine is your best bet. My headers are chrome and 22 years old. And they didn't turn blue until I started running 117 octane racing fuel. Now they have blue nearly to the collectors!

Pump gas shouldn't be a problem, if your jetting is correct, and your timing is correct. If it is... your pyrometric temp will hang around 1100 degrees when you get in it hard. This is acceptable for both chrome & ceramic. So tune up that engine FIRST! "


AND for for the folks doing some wraps:

http://www.mikesdakota.com/html/dakota/thorleycoat.html

AND different barrier finishes, different max temps:

http://www.performancecoatings.com/headercoatings.html

 

I still don't understand your point? WHat is your purpose of posting here? To make fun at people? Does it make you feel better? Somehow this suprises me since I know you own your own business, and generally those are the people that aren't afraid of trying something new. Well...whatevet floats your boat, but it seemes to me you have a problem with your ego. Now...If you want to play with cutting and pasting...then point to me where we wanted to be "a bad ass". Yeah...one minute you sounded like you might have said sometihng smart...the next you have sh*t comming out of your mouth.

Like I said before...if you aren't going to contribute anything technical, leave that sh*t in OT and focus on the subject matter...period, what's done is done.

Regardless, he already contacted SSAutochrome and sent the pictures in. To make it easier for the install, he would just have to send in that part of the header since the rest seems to be ok.

P.S.
WTF is the point of the last part of the message? To further instigate me? That's very trollish behavior, but seeing as you've been here long enough, then I guess that just makes you a prick. Obviously you don't come on the internet for advice...but damn...leave the "tude" at home.

 

Xmas is around the corner...can't shop for myself anymore, but whenever I get around to it I'll make sure I go through you.

This pic we are looking at is in PA. So I never got to see it personally. All this started when I basically got a call from him asking what I thought about the OBX header (he just recently bought a CLS and I basically told him to read this site). I told him that I'm thinking about the ceramic coat myself since no one else have reported anything on it and wanted to give it a try. I explained all the postitives & negatives and the next thing you know he beats me to it. So now I kinda feel bad because I gave him the idea. Oh well...what can I say...he is an impulse buyer.

 

That is interesting what they stated, was that a typo or did I read that wrong.

A rich condition will cause a cooler burn but backing off on timing will increase EGTs. They stated one thing wrong and the other correct...

When I installed an EGT probe in my old GTP I would monitor the temps at WOT while adjusting the mixture with the ARC2. I would see as high as 1600 F but that was with a cast manifold. However, I would suspect we would see 1300 - 1500 F on a WOT run to 120 MPH or so.

This coincides with the few jet engine dynos I have done DAQ systems on. Also, when I did the catalytic converter life cycle test stand for Calsonic I loved watching the EGT readings we would capture. With a few clicks of the mouse we could drop it by adding more fuel (or better yet, melt the catalyst by running it to over 1800 F ).

 

For further clarification, here is their excerpt and my comment:

" 'That is unless you have an overly rich induction situation, or a badly retarded ignition setting, or both. Either is instant death to a header coating without special undercoatings to buffer the heat...'

(they missed the too-lean part too. but..) "

-- end --

I believe the "overly rich" should be changed to "overly lean"...


RE: EGT link/excerpt (one of many):

http://www.insightavionics.com/pages/diagnose.html


"Probable cause: Retarded timing will increase EGT and advanced timing will decrease EGT. Note that cold, dense air with its higher oxygen content produces more power and higher EGT."

All's I can say from personal experience, is that my water temps went through the roof with an over retarded base timing (static timing was screwed-up).



I did notice that there were two temps for one of the coating folks and that was 1250F vs. 2000F (depending on finish). So, I know I've got blue on mine (along with a full spectrum of orange/red hues). That seems to indicate some pretty hot temps (at times).

I'm pretty sure you're dead-on regarding the max converter temps...

 

Not to be rude, but he is right.

You guys are the ones bad mouthing OBX and their headers are no better than any other headers out there.

Just the fact COMPTECHs are overpriced with a slightly differnet weld job and parts. I saw them next to each other, and personally. I didn't see spending the extra money for a POS metal.

It's just exhaust guys, it will discolor after a while and look ugly anyways. Who gives a crap what they look like. These look much better than any exhasut work I have seen like ypipes for Maximas, etc. These will LAST.

 

 

No problem here wirh my SS OBX headers.. Ah I remeber that I have one either when I hear the resonace sound at 2800 rpm or when I go WOT

 

Soooo....my friend calls me up again and looks at what he sends me. OBX/SSAutochrome did replace his peeling header...but now look at what he got in return...3 DINGS instead of 1!. LOL I guess it never was the installer's fault to begin with...DOH!



Ah well, at least it still works even though we laugh at it.

 

Glad to hear that SSAutochrome are taking care of you guys...

But stop bitcging.... Those "dings" are from pressing the tubes to mate the flanges....

They look great to me!

 

Of course they look great to you because you probably get compensated in some manner for all your posts in the past month heaping praises on their "quality" products. Wipe the shit off your nose.

Those dents look ridiculous, and that shitty painted coating is even poorer.

 

Why dont people get the ss in the first place??

i had my header for 3 weeks, and they are fine.

hope they would last

 

Jrock,

I refered more than 20 OBX orders to SSAutoChrome.com.... not a single penny yet... Let us see how OBX will reward my efforts

An apperciation "gift" will be welcomed, if not, I was glad to help you folks here geting a good deal.

 

Man all i have to say is damn these headers are the cheapest upgrade to big power i ever paid, i have bought a lot of mods for different cars before, but this shit chirped from 2nd to 3rd at 75, got shit my friend who was in the shotgun was amazzzzzzzzed.

 

Yup, thats what i am saying. Best upgarade for the buck regardless of some minor flaws. But still worth it.

 

This picture should dispel all other guesses. The header just plain and simple suffered from manufacturers defect.

 

I guess that high-temp silver paint wasn't so high temp.