OBX ceramic header horror story.
OBX ceramic header horror story.
So my friend calls me up and is all exited that his header is being installed. Unfortunately I couldnt be there to help out (he is a noob when it comes to cars), so he went ahead and took it to a discount shop instead. Well...here are the pics....
Notice how the shop "accidentally" dented the right most pipe.
Already I'm starting to get mad, perhaps it would of been different if I was there...but o well...it doesn't end there.
Notice how the shop "accidentally" dented the right most pipe.
Already I'm starting to get mad, perhaps it would of been different if I was there...but o well...it doesn't end there.
Dont flame....usefull info.
Now here is a shocker! He calls me up a couple of hours after the install. (Mind you he was very pumped at this point because he just raced it and won) and here is the result!
The time frame between both pics is less than 12 hours max!
Now for all you trolls/noobs/(anyone who does nothing but smack talk) STFU. My friend already feels bad about it and dont give me the generic line of "well dont post it if you cant handle it" because this post is for all of us to learn something, and not to "brag".
Moral of the story...let the headers settle in first before redlining it. The rest of the header is fine though, so my only guess is that it got super hot..then cooled by the fan over and over causing it to peel. Has anyone ever experienced anything like this with previous ceramic coated headers? Is this something that should be covered under the "lifetime warranty".
The time frame between both pics is less than 12 hours max!
Now for all you trolls/noobs/(anyone who does nothing but smack talk) STFU. My friend already feels bad about it and dont give me the generic line of "well dont post it if you cant handle it" because this post is for all of us to learn something, and not to "brag".
Moral of the story...let the headers settle in first before redlining it. The rest of the header is fine though, so my only guess is that it got super hot..then cooled by the fan over and over causing it to peel. Has anyone ever experienced anything like this with previous ceramic coated headers? Is this something that should be covered under the "lifetime warranty".
It looks only cosmetic, but nonetheless another negative vote for OBX.
I'd me more annoyed about the dent. Why go to a 'professional' to do the install if they cannot do it correctly? I'd push the installer to buy a new unit if it doesn't otherwise get replaced under warranty. They should also do the re-install without charge (for failing to do the original install correctly).
I would doubt that OBX's installation instructions state, 'dent the front bank of pipes before installation'.
I'd me more annoyed about the dent. Why go to a 'professional' to do the install if they cannot do it correctly? I'd push the installer to buy a new unit if it doesn't otherwise get replaced under warranty. They should also do the re-install without charge (for failing to do the original install correctly).
I would doubt that OBX's installation instructions state, 'dent the front bank of pipes before installation'.
To those "you get what you pay for peeps....STFU
He tried something new...and it backfired. But dont be hard on him because in the end, his loss is YOUR benefit. Flaming is exactly what I want to avoid. I want this thread to go towards whether or not this is normal behavior of ceramic coating. So if you dont have anything technical to say...move on to the next thread please.
P.S.
I feel bad too because I was the one that recommended ceramic coat to my friend in the first place since it SHOULD hold in heat more, and doesnt discolor. I was under the impression that it doesnt really matter if you go with SS or ceramic for OBX since it never really was a true SS to begin with and both selections are nothing but surface coating.
P.S.
I feel bad too because I was the one that recommended ceramic coat to my friend in the first place since it SHOULD hold in heat more, and doesnt discolor. I was under the impression that it doesnt really matter if you go with SS or ceramic for OBX since it never really was a true SS to begin with and both selections are nothing but surface coating.
For real tho, I have noted in various threads that Ceramic Coat is worthless....in general, they are done to keep the pipes from rusting, since its cheaper to cc a mild 14 gauge steel than to use real SS.
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Originally posted by moomaster_99
For real tho, I have noted in various threads that Ceramic Coat is worthless....in general, they are done to keep the pipes from rusting, since its cheaper to cc a mild 14 gauge steel than to use real SS.
For real tho, I have noted in various threads that Ceramic Coat is worthless....in general, they are done to keep the pipes from rusting, since its cheaper to cc a mild 14 gauge steel than to use real SS.
At this point, the only thing I could see what he did wrong was that he raced the car immediately after getting out of the shop and didnt bother to "burn" them in.
ahhh...sometimes my friend could be such a knucklehead
What are you guys talking about 'burning them in'. I don't buy it. If you think your putting enough of a coat of soot on the inside walls to act as an insulator, no way. That's just crappy coating.
When I install new pipes on motorcycles, stock and custom, I always take some VHT heat resistant paint and coat the inside of the pipes first, front to back. I buy it in a can, tape off the ends and roll the paint around inside. This provides and insulation that keeps the pipes from getting super hot and bluing. I've never had a set of pipes blue on me when I've done this in the 20 years I've been using the process. I'd bet it would even work with polished SS to keep them from bluing although I've not tried it. Not even on my old Triumph TR6C, and all old Triumphs blue their pipes.
When I install new pipes on motorcycles, stock and custom, I always take some VHT heat resistant paint and coat the inside of the pipes first, front to back. I buy it in a can, tape off the ends and roll the paint around inside. This provides and insulation that keeps the pipes from getting super hot and bluing. I've never had a set of pipes blue on me when I've done this in the 20 years I've been using the process. I'd bet it would even work with polished SS to keep them from bluing although I've not tried it. Not even on my old Triumph TR6C, and all old Triumphs blue their pipes.
WOW…That’s just PITIFUL !!!!
Unless there are SPECIFIC instructions on properly “breaking-in” the headers, I would say OBX is FULLY responsible for a replacement parts and labor to fix this car.
That doesn’t even look like ceramic coating. It looks like high temp PAINT that was applied over dirty or oily metal.
Shawn S
Unless there are SPECIFIC instructions on properly “breaking-in” the headers, I would say OBX is FULLY responsible for a replacement parts and labor to fix this car.
That doesn’t even look like ceramic coating. It looks like high temp PAINT that was applied over dirty or oily metal.
Shawn S
Originally posted by lrutt
What are you guys talking about 'burning them in'. I don't buy it. If you think your putting enough of a coat of soot on the inside walls to act as an insulator, no way. That's just crappy coating.
When I install new pipes on motorcycles, stock and custom, I always take some VHT heat resistant paint and coat the inside of the pipes first, front to back. I buy it in a can, tape off the ends and roll the paint around inside. This provides and insulation that keeps the pipes from getting super hot and bluing. I've never had a set of pipes blue on me when I've done this in the 20 years I've been using the process. I'd bet it would even work with polished SS to keep them from bluing although I've not tried it. Not even on my old Triumph TR6C, and all old Triumphs blue their pipes.
What are you guys talking about 'burning them in'. I don't buy it. If you think your putting enough of a coat of soot on the inside walls to act as an insulator, no way. That's just crappy coating.
When I install new pipes on motorcycles, stock and custom, I always take some VHT heat resistant paint and coat the inside of the pipes first, front to back. I buy it in a can, tape off the ends and roll the paint around inside. This provides and insulation that keeps the pipes from getting super hot and bluing. I've never had a set of pipes blue on me when I've done this in the 20 years I've been using the process. I'd bet it would even work with polished SS to keep them from bluing although I've not tried it. Not even on my old Triumph TR6C, and all old Triumphs blue their pipes.
Originally posted by Shawn S
WOW…That’s just PITIFUL !!!!
Unless there are SPECIFIC instructions on properly “breaking-in” the headers, I would say OBX is FULLY responsible for a replacement parts and labor to fix this car.
That doesn’t even look like ceramic coating. It looks like high temp PAINT that was applied over dirty or oily metal.
Shawn S
WOW…That’s just PITIFUL !!!!
Unless there are SPECIFIC instructions on properly “breaking-in” the headers, I would say OBX is FULLY responsible for a replacement parts and labor to fix this car.
That doesn’t even look like ceramic coating. It looks like high temp PAINT that was applied over dirty or oily metal.
Shawn S
break in??? headers are a non-moving, non-mechanical part, they do not "break in" they change color after some time being on the car due to the heat, but thats not "breaking in" as nothing is changing besides the color. the headers are a plug and play mod....you put them on, drive for a few days for your ECU to adjust, and your set....i had my battery disconnected for 6 hours and it still took about 2 days for the ECU to fully realize the headers being there. all i can say is the first driving i did after we finished installing was less than impressive, but after 2 days, HOLY SHIIIIAT!!! the thing pulls like mad now. and to be honest, the gains really dont appear ONLY in the high end, i can feel a much stronger pull from about 2,700 rpm and all the way up from there. im looking forward to seriously comparing my timeslips on saturday after i go to the track, i KNOW i will be knocking off a few tenths from my time just from the headers, i cant wait to find out how much
Originally posted by jimcol711
i had my battery disconnected for 6 hours and it still took about 2 days for the ECU to fully realize the headers being there.
i had my battery disconnected for 6 hours and it still took about 2 days for the ECU to fully realize the headers being there.
:P
:P Just curious though, how did you know the ECU knew the headers were there??
Originally posted by scalbert
Your ECU must have taken that short yellow bus to school because it is certainly slower than the norm...
:P
:P
Just curious though, how did you know the ECU knew the headers were there??
Your ECU must have taken that short yellow bus to school because it is certainly slower than the norm...
:P
:P Just curious though, how did you know the ECU knew the headers were there??
hahaha, i like your question, i guess i could have phrased that more technically and eloquently. but to be honest im not sure what the correct terminology is. but to answer your question, i know that the ECU "knows" my headers are on because there was a SIGNIFICANT gain in power about 48 hours after initial start up after installation...now i dont know how or why it took that long for the car to "adjust" to the headers but thats just what happend in my experience.
Gains where?? It takes a minimum of 5% gain in torque to begin to 'Feel' something. This only occurs at the higher revs, past 5500 revs with the headers. So this feel would be when you went WOT and at the higher revs.
Now could this 'Feel' be attributable to something else?? The only adjustment factors in our ECU are those dealing with fuel supply and if they took days to adjust there is something wrong with the ECU. I have purposely made changes to see how long it takes the ECU to adjust and it has taken just minutes. The headers will alter the scavenging affect causing a slight change in A/F ratio. But not to a level at which a real power gain could be felt since the fuel trim values only move a few points with the headers. So the power was there all along...
So the later power gain might be something else, better air, fuel, optimism or maybe numb senses after the install, just IMO of course...
Now could this 'Feel' be attributable to something else?? The only adjustment factors in our ECU are those dealing with fuel supply and if they took days to adjust there is something wrong with the ECU. I have purposely made changes to see how long it takes the ECU to adjust and it has taken just minutes. The headers will alter the scavenging affect causing a slight change in A/F ratio. But not to a level at which a real power gain could be felt since the fuel trim values only move a few points with the headers. So the power was there all along...
So the later power gain might be something else, better air, fuel, optimism or maybe numb senses after the install, just IMO of course...
scalbert, let me tell ya, i am one SKEPTICAL mo-fo when it comes to mods....if i am not going to FEEL a performance mod, i wont waste my time or money, i had a CAI, didnt feel jack shit, so i sold it. im not sure exactly how the ECU operates and all that, but what i do know is what actually happend to my car after the installation. let me get a bit more specific...we finished the install at about 3:00pm and it was no more than 55 degrees outside with light rain. we reconnected the battery, started the car, let her sit there running for a few minutes, i did a few revs on the gas pedal and listened for leaks and such. then after about 3 minutes, we backed her off the ramps and myself and Roell went for a drive. we drove down some side streets, i floored it a few times, then we went on the freeway and accellerated hard on the on-ramp and merged into traffic at about 70-80. then i did one or two 70-90ish runs and then we got off the freeway and went back to the dudes house where we installed the headers. my initial thoughts were that i was somewhat dissapointed, i loved the new sound from the headers and felt a slightly stronger pull on the very high end but NOTHING down low. so we let the car cool off, went to the bar, had some drinks, then by the time i left to drive home, it was late, like 1 am or so. i was pretty drunk and didnt even bother trying to feel the gains as i was just trying to get home in one peice. the next day was a sunday, it was not raining anymore and it was about 50 degrees, maybe a tit hair colder. i had to go somewhere that afternoon but i didnt get much chance to get on it. it was about noon or a bit after and i went to my sisters for the packer game, i did notice about the same gains as the previous day, i was wishing i could feel more, but again, i didnt have much room to open her up. now its monday morning, its again very dry air and about 45-50 degrees outside. my morning drive to work is short but i have a few streets that i can gun it on. i turned onto one of the streets i usually get up to about 60 mph on. its about 1/2 mile. i gunned it..and WOOOOOAHH!! instant power!! from about 2,700 rpm ALL THE WAY UP, she pulled much harder than in stock form and much harder than for the first 36 hours with the headers. i was SHOCKED! that was the moment i was like "FUCK YEAH, i love these headers" later that day, i went on the freeway and experienced the same power, its very very real, and for whatever reason, it didnt show up till about 48 hours later....i cant explain it...
i dropped my comptech headers a couple of times during the install and i also dropped the down pipe pretty hard but NO DENTS
now that i think of it u need a sledge hammer to dent it.
man those obx are cheap cheap cheap
and that pic with the ceramic coming off that just looks FREAKY
sidemarker
now that i think of it u need a sledge hammer to dent it.
man those obx are cheap cheap cheap
and that pic with the ceramic coming off that just looks FREAKY
sidemarker
Originally posted by jimcol711
i was SHOCKED! that was the moment i was like "FUCK YEAH, i love these headers" later that day, i went on the freeway and experienced the same power, its very very real, and for whatever reason, it didnt show up till about 48 hours later....i cant explain it...
i was SHOCKED! that was the moment i was like "FUCK YEAH, i love these headers" later that day, i went on the freeway and experienced the same power, its very very real, and for whatever reason, it didnt show up till about 48 hours later....i cant explain it...
Just IMO, the later gains were due to something else or even a more capable judgement of the cars attitude. Plus, you first tested with another person with you which would have an impact...
Originally posted by scalbert
Your ECU must have taken that short yellow bus to school because it is certainly slower than the norm...
:P
:P
Your ECU must have taken that short yellow bus to school because it is certainly slower than the norm...
:P
:P
I didn't realize that an "underclocking" kit for the ECU/CPU was out
Originally posted by EricL
I didn't realize that an "underclocking" kit for the ECU/CPU was out
I didn't realize that an "underclocking" kit for the ECU/CPU was out

Hrmmm, do I detect some Acura geek dialogue being tossed around...
I'm wondering that during the install process, the tech was really reefin' on the pipes to get them to fit thus the dent in one pipe and maybe he actually cracked the header coating as well which didn't become apparent till it got hot and peeled. I'm shittin' b/c my ceramic obx headers go on today (at dealer thank god). If this happens, there will be a return to obx.
Originally posted by Nashua_Night_Hawk
Did anyone cleaned those headers with a abbraisive chemical. like a paint thiner or rubbing alcohol ... just asking
Did anyone cleaned those headers with a abbraisive chemical. like a paint thiner or rubbing alcohol ... just asking
But at this point he could care less about the cosmetics of it. As long as this doesnt affect long term reliability, he doesnt think it would be worth it to pay for reinstalling the same part. According to OBX, he would have to deal with SSAutoChrome, send in the header...have them inspect it for a couple of days, then if it is a warranty fix, they'll send him a new one. Problem is, he will be out of a car for those couple of days plus he would have to pay double for the installation.
Originally posted by Chief F1 Fan
I'm wondering that during the install process, the tech was really reefin' on the pipes to get them to fit thus the dent in one pipe and maybe he actually cracked the header coating as well which didn't become apparent till it got hot and peeled. I'm shittin' b/c my ceramic obx headers go on today (at dealer thank god). If this happens, there will be a return to obx.
I'm wondering that during the install process, the tech was really reefin' on the pipes to get them to fit thus the dent in one pipe and maybe he actually cracked the header coating as well which didn't become apparent till it got hot and peeled. I'm shittin' b/c my ceramic obx headers go on today (at dealer thank god). If this happens, there will be a return to obx.
Originally posted by edgalang
I But at this point he could care less about the cosmetics of it. As long as this doesnt affect long term reliability, he doesnt think it would be worth it to pay for reinstalling the same part. According to OBX, he would have to deal with SSAutoChrome, send in the header...have them inspect it for a couple of days, then if it is a warranty fix, they'll send him a new one. Problem is, he will be out of a car for those couple of days plus he would have to pay double for the installation.
I But at this point he could care less about the cosmetics of it. As long as this doesnt affect long term reliability, he doesnt think it would be worth it to pay for reinstalling the same part. According to OBX, he would have to deal with SSAutoChrome, send in the header...have them inspect it for a couple of days, then if it is a warranty fix, they'll send him a new one. Problem is, he will be out of a car for those couple of days plus he would have to pay double for the installation.
Yes, it will affect long tern durability as the steel is now now exposed and will corrode.
How about the inside of the pipes? If the same thing is happening on the inside, that crap will dislodge and disrupt airflow/lodge in the exhaust somewhere. I would think that would be more of a problem.
I've had 3 pairs of CC headers on my Camaro(s). That never happened. And yes, they do keep heat away/cooldown faster than SS. Regardless of what anyone tells you.
Usually CC headers are excellent. Too bad OBX has some manufacturing issues. They should definetly replace those.
Usually CC headers are excellent. Too bad OBX has some manufacturing issues. They should definetly replace those.
Ouchie
Well if he wants the easy way out, tell him to sand them, heat paint them and them rap them with heat tape..
This whole set-up looks bad, but what gonna do, shit happens, and like alot of us feel... if you can't afford these kind of things to happen , then don't play with it...
p.s. i would most definitly go back and make that shop take them back off for putting that dent in them.... and then send them back, but I can bet OBX will tell you to stick it because there is a dent which caused the material to crack and peel...
Just my .02, no flames.Just looking for other options for your boy to take..
Smitty
This whole set-up looks bad, but what gonna do, shit happens, and like alot of us feel... if you can't afford these kind of things to happen , then don't play with it...
p.s. i would most definitly go back and make that shop take them back off for putting that dent in them.... and then send them back, but I can bet OBX will tell you to stick it because there is a dent which caused the material to crack and peel...
Just my .02, no flames.Just looking for other options for your boy to take..
Smitty
The peeling is not caused by the dent because if it was then it would peel at the dent first then be continuious down that pipe then to the next 2 pipes. Just like how u crack a mirror or ice. It starts spreading from the initial point of impact. Not at random sites all over the pipe because there are also some peeling around at the edge and at the bottom front and back. Therefore, it is safe to assume that the dent, hence the shop or install procedure, is not the cause of the peeling but the quality of the ceramic coat itself.
Thats my 2 cents on this thing.
Think!!!!!!
Thats my 2 cents on this thing.
Think!!!!!!
okay kritikadeo
How about you think of this... the initial drop caused the dent... then the header scrapped something (the floor) causing tiny stess cracks in the ceramic coating.... in turn causing it to crack and peel... I don't know how the dent got there and apparently no one else does, because we are going on the information that was posted... Aparently you have no clue what type of material Ceramic is and how easy it is to scratch.. My guess is as good as anyones elses, but I bet OBX, tells him to stick it....
Smitty
There, I thought...I wish him luck in getting a new header, He should of bought a quality product in the first place.....
Smitty
There, I thought...I wish him luck in getting a new header, He should of bought a quality product in the first place.....
Originally posted by moforose3.0
I dont think that shold happen to headers no matter what.
I dont think that shold happen to headers no matter what.
However, without having an visual account or record of what happened to them (the ding, use of solvents, damage, man handling, abuse, etc), it's hard to "place the blame".
I had a tech try to "relocate" a muffler pipe on a previous car that was hanging too low by grabbing for the largest screwdriver he could find; he started a racket that I still remember. I had to call a service manager to get him away from the car -- the pipe had dings in it and the "proper adjustment" method takes 5-minutes with two 10-mm wrenches...
Who knows what the tech/mechanic did to the headers? Does anyone really know for sure?





