Seattle Cl-S

Ok, I took a board member's advice and went to Schuck's today and borrowed their OBD-II code reader. It came back w/ P0304, which translated to a Misfire in Cylinder #4. Now, the question is what next? I was thinking about resetting the Check Engine light and seeing if it was just a bad code due to not having started the car for 4 days straight. I remember yesterday that the car hesitated while backing out of my garage and then through the light. The car seems to run beautifully w/ no loss in power or sounds or vibrations. I'm just being cheap here and don't really have time to take the car in to Acura until next week. I don't want to resort to driving my '95 F250 in the meantime. Thing gets like 2 mpg.

Red Rider

Hope you get to the bottom of it. Do you think it has anything to do with the SC or HBP ?

Seattle Cl-S

I really don't think it has anything to do with the charger. These are my predictions:

1. The plug is fouled due to running rich (in the 10's for A/F) around 5k rpm...I saw this on the dyno I had a couple weeks ago. Too bad the computer couldn't "find" the data so I could actually review it.

2. The car sat for 4 days and had alot of trouble turning over when I tried to start it. I think the fuel pump had issues. Anyway, maybe cylinder #4 didn't get enough fuel?

3. The full moon was out and all those Acura-haters out there cursed me for having a 13-second luxury mobile.

I'm betting on #2.

Red Rider

My a/f is in the 10s from 3400 rpms to 6800 rpms ( 10.1 @5600-5800 ) Still not exactly sure what all that means though

Seattle Cl-S

Hmmm, I'm definitely not the one to answer questions on A/F ratios. I just thought I had read that it would be nice to keep the ratio near mid-11's for ideal combustion.

Does anyone know how to reset the Check Engine light? I know how to reset the Maintenance light but can't find a post saying how to reset the CEL.

NiteQwill

Any OBD-II scanner can reset the light.

scalbert

Just reset it and see if it comes back. I normally have to notice a problem and/or the CEL come back on before I take the code seriously. Random codes can occur, so just reset it and see if it comes back.

scalbert

You are running very rich. I have mine tuned for about 12.0:1 - 11.5:1 which may be still a little rich but safe. Leaning it out some would give you some power.

Seattle Cl-S

Is there any other way to reset it? Unplug the battery? Turn the ignition on and off 40 times? Dance naked around the car chanting " Go back to hell, C-E-L!!"...ok, it's one of those days.

rezurex

seattle are you running e-manage?

rezurex

you can reset it by unplugging your battery, but make sure you know your radio code (if you have stock headunit)

scalbert

It is this one. But be sure to do this in the middle of the day with all of you neighbors watching.

Just pull the No. 13 fuse on the passenger side fuse panel. Leave it out for about 1 minute and plug it back in.

mlb585

Depending on how rich you're running, I bet that plug is fouled along with the others and probably has consideral carbon buildup on the base ring. Sometimes even 500 miles of driving with a cold plug and running pig rich can foul plugs. Do you have colder heat-range plugs than stock?

Seattle Cl-S

Yeah, I had the suggested plugs for the supercharger placed brand spankin' new in the car at the time of install...about 5k miles ago.

Seattle Cl-S

Nope.

allmotor_2000

You guys should verify A/F on two independant wideband O2's... I get conflicting results, so always tune for slightly richer. As Scalbert said... 11.5 - 12.0 is a good compromise between power and safety.

Allout

Sounds like somebody's been into the Nitrous today.

bigguyonbike

Seattle Cl-S

That's for dental patients only.

Allout

You have teeth don't you