OBD-II Question
OBD-II Question
Ok, I took a board member's advice and went to Schuck's today and borrowed their OBD-II code reader. It came back w/ P0304, which translated to a Misfire in Cylinder #4. Now, the question is what next? I was thinking about resetting the Check Engine light and seeing if it was just a bad code due to not having started the car for 4 days straight. I remember yesterday that the car hesitated while backing out of my garage and then through the light. The car seems to run beautifully w/ no loss in power or sounds or vibrations. I'm just being cheap here and don't really have time to take the car in to Acura until next week. I don't want to resort to driving my '95 F250 in the meantime. Thing gets like 2 mpg.
Originally Posted by Red Rider
Hope you get to the bottom of it. Do you think it has anything to do with the SC or HBP ?
I really don't think it has anything to do with the charger. These are my predictions:
1. The plug is fouled due to running rich (in the 10's for A/F) around 5k rpm...I saw this on the dyno I had a couple weeks ago. Too bad the computer couldn't "find" the data so I could actually review it.
2. The car sat for 4 days and had alot of trouble turning over when I tried to start it. I think the fuel pump had issues. Anyway, maybe cylinder #4 didn't get enough fuel?
3. The full moon was out and all those Acura-haters out there cursed me for having a 13-second luxury mobile.
I'm betting on #2.
Hmmm, I'm definitely not the one to answer questions on A/F ratios. I just thought I had read that it would be nice to keep the ratio near mid-11's for ideal combustion.
Does anyone know how to reset the Check Engine light? I know how to reset the Maintenance light but can't find a post saying how to reset the CEL.
Does anyone know how to reset the Check Engine light? I know how to reset the Maintenance light but can't find a post saying how to reset the CEL.
Just reset it and see if it comes back. I normally have to notice a problem and/or the CEL come back on before I take the code seriously. Random codes can occur, so just reset it and see if it comes back.
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Originally Posted by Red Rider
My a/f is in the 10s from 3400 rpms to 6800 rpms ( 10.1 @5600-5800 ) Still not exactly sure what all that means though 

You are running very rich. I have mine tuned for about 12.0:1 - 11.5:1 which may be still a little rich but safe. Leaning it out some would give you some power.
Originally Posted by NiteQwill
Any OBD-II scanner can reset the light.
Is there any other way to reset it? Unplug the battery? Turn the ignition on and off 40 times? Dance naked around the car chanting " Go back to hell, C-E-L!!"...ok, it's one of those days.
Originally Posted by Seattle Cl-S
Dance naked around the car chanting " Go back to hell, C-E-L!!"...
Just pull the No. 13 fuse on the passenger side fuse panel. Leave it out for about 1 minute and plug it back in.
Depending on how rich you're running, I bet that plug is fouled along with the others and probably has consideral carbon buildup on the base ring. Sometimes even 500 miles of driving with a cold plug and running pig rich can foul plugs. Do you have colder heat-range plugs than stock?
Originally Posted by mlb585
Depending on how rich you're running, I bet that plug is fouled along with the others and probably has consideral carbon buildup on the base ring. Sometimes even 500 miles of driving with a cold plug and running pig rich can foul plugs. Do you have colder heat-range plugs than stock?
Yeah, I had the suggested plugs for the supercharger placed brand spankin' new in the car at the time of install...about 5k miles ago.
You guys should verify A/F on two independant wideband O2's... I get conflicting results, so always tune for slightly richer. As Scalbert said... 11.5 - 12.0 is a good compromise between power and safety.
Originally Posted by Seattle Cl-S
Is there any other way to reset it? Unplug the battery? Turn the ignition on and off 40 times? Dance naked around the car chanting " Go back to hell, C-E-L!!"...ok, it's one of those days.
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