OBD-II Question

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Old Sep 21, 2004 | 10:41 PM
  #1  
Seattle Cl-S's Avatar
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Blown LS6!!
 
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From: Bellevue, WA
OBD-II Question

Ok, I took a board member's advice and went to Schuck's today and borrowed their OBD-II code reader. It came back w/ P0304, which translated to a Misfire in Cylinder #4. Now, the question is what next? I was thinking about resetting the Check Engine light and seeing if it was just a bad code due to not having started the car for 4 days straight. I remember yesterday that the car hesitated while backing out of my garage and then through the light. The car seems to run beautifully w/ no loss in power or sounds or vibrations. I'm just being cheap here and don't really have time to take the car in to Acura until next week. I don't want to resort to driving my '95 F250 in the meantime. Thing gets like 2 mpg.
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Old Sep 21, 2004 | 11:10 PM
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Red Rider's Avatar
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Hope you get to the bottom of it. Do you think it has anything to do with the SC or HBP ?
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Old Sep 21, 2004 | 11:15 PM
  #3  
Seattle Cl-S's Avatar
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From: Bellevue, WA
Originally Posted by Red Rider
Hope you get to the bottom of it. Do you think it has anything to do with the SC or HBP ?

I really don't think it has anything to do with the charger. These are my predictions:

1. The plug is fouled due to running rich (in the 10's for A/F) around 5k rpm...I saw this on the dyno I had a couple weeks ago. Too bad the computer couldn't "find" the data so I could actually review it.

2. The car sat for 4 days and had alot of trouble turning over when I tried to start it. I think the fuel pump had issues. Anyway, maybe cylinder #4 didn't get enough fuel?

3. The full moon was out and all those Acura-haters out there cursed me for having a 13-second luxury mobile.

I'm betting on #2.
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Old Sep 21, 2004 | 11:44 PM
  #4  
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Subie Dubie
 
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My a/f is in the 10s from 3400 rpms to 6800 rpms ( 10.1 @5600-5800 ) Still not exactly sure what all that means though
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 01:09 AM
  #5  
Seattle Cl-S's Avatar
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Blown LS6!!
 
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From: Bellevue, WA
Hmmm, I'm definitely not the one to answer questions on A/F ratios. I just thought I had read that it would be nice to keep the ratio near mid-11's for ideal combustion.

Does anyone know how to reset the Check Engine light? I know how to reset the Maintenance light but can't find a post saying how to reset the CEL.
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 01:28 AM
  #6  
NiteQwill's Avatar
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From: Orange County, CA
Any OBD-II scanner can reset the light.
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 06:58 AM
  #7  
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Just reset it and see if it comes back. I normally have to notice a problem and/or the CEL come back on before I take the code seriously. Random codes can occur, so just reset it and see if it comes back.
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 07:00 AM
  #8  
scalbert's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Red Rider
My a/f is in the 10s from 3400 rpms to 6800 rpms ( 10.1 @5600-5800 ) Still not exactly sure what all that means though

You are running very rich. I have mine tuned for about 12.0:1 - 11.5:1 which may be still a little rich but safe. Leaning it out some would give you some power.
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 11:32 AM
  #9  
Seattle Cl-S's Avatar
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From: Bellevue, WA
Originally Posted by NiteQwill
Any OBD-II scanner can reset the light.

Is there any other way to reset it? Unplug the battery? Turn the ignition on and off 40 times? Dance naked around the car chanting " Go back to hell, C-E-L!!"...ok, it's one of those days.
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 11:50 AM
  #10  
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drop em like its hot
 
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seattle are you running e-manage?
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 11:50 AM
  #11  
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drop em like its hot
 
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From: West Harlem, NY
you can reset it by unplugging your battery, but make sure you know your radio code (if you have stock headunit)
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 12:02 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Seattle Cl-S
Dance naked around the car chanting " Go back to hell, C-E-L!!"...
It is this one. But be sure to do this in the middle of the day with all of you neighbors watching.

Just pull the No. 13 fuse on the passenger side fuse panel. Leave it out for about 1 minute and plug it back in.
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 12:47 PM
  #13  
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From: fort lauderdale,fl
Depending on how rich you're running, I bet that plug is fouled along with the others and probably has consideral carbon buildup on the base ring. Sometimes even 500 miles of driving with a cold plug and running pig rich can foul plugs. Do you have colder heat-range plugs than stock?
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 02:40 PM
  #14  
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From: Bellevue, WA
Originally Posted by mlb585
Depending on how rich you're running, I bet that plug is fouled along with the others and probably has consideral carbon buildup on the base ring. Sometimes even 500 miles of driving with a cold plug and running pig rich can foul plugs. Do you have colder heat-range plugs than stock?

Yeah, I had the suggested plugs for the supercharger placed brand spankin' new in the car at the time of install...about 5k miles ago.
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 02:41 PM
  #15  
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From: Bellevue, WA
Originally Posted by rezurex
seattle are you running e-manage?

Nope.
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 02:57 PM
  #16  
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You guys should verify A/F on two independant wideband O2's... I get conflicting results, so always tune for slightly richer. As Scalbert said... 11.5 - 12.0 is a good compromise between power and safety.
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 10:07 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Seattle Cl-S
Is there any other way to reset it? Unplug the battery? Turn the ignition on and off 40 times? Dance naked around the car chanting " Go back to hell, C-E-L!!"...ok, it's one of those days.
Sounds like somebody's been into the Nitrous today.
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 11:05 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Allout
Sounds like somebody's been into the Nitrous today.
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Old Sep 23, 2004 | 12:19 AM
  #19  
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From: Bellevue, WA
Originally Posted by Allout
Sounds like somebody's been into the Nitrous today.

That's for dental patients only.
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Old Sep 23, 2004 | 01:12 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Seattle Cl-S
That's for dental patients only.
You have teeth don't you
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