CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

I bought Quick Stop Pro rotors off ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Acura-CL-All-High...3%3A1|294%3A50

I literally JUST installed them. I went around the block and when i brake the wheel is Seriously shaking now?

Is this due to break in period?

when i got out of the car the rotors were literally smoking lol..

there's 3 possibilities.

1- I didn't put the rotors on tight enough with the screws

2- rotors are warped/ shit

3- Just need to break them in since they are drilled and slotted.

Which one do you guys think it is... this is wack

Allout

I would try bedding the pads first. There's some good info on Stoptech's website and explains "perceived" warped rotors.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml


Bedding process for stock size rotors

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

need a wheel balancing at first check how u tight the screws on the rotors if dont work then buy new rotors :P

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

k well these things are still SMOKING from break in so i assume i'll need to drive them till they're polished like WORN IN ROTORS. before I know for sure there is something wrong.

NOTE I did not install new pads. I used my stock ACURA OEM pads since they are pretty damn new... only 6500miles


SO they are not seating against the rotor perfectly. You can see where it contact more on the rotor in one area than the other.

the rotor slightly BLUED up on some parts of the rotor (the upper portion) and not on the lower. due to the pads...


SO WTF...

Shall I just keep driving and they'll all settle in you think or what??

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

You have duplicate threads.

EDIT - Get new pads. Never ever ever ever ever reuse old pads on new rotors. Thats why it shakes. Dont run the risk or warping these rotors by reusing the old pads.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

for real???? with only 10000 km of BABY breaking?

I had the oem rotors machined and new pads put on... so that's a no go???

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Doesnt matter how you brake. When you replace the rotors, you replace the pads. The pads conform the irregularities of the old rotors, and now that your on new rotors, the pads still think you have the old ones. Plus, if you can see where the pads arent contacting the rotors, you're brakes are not performing to their fullest potential. Thats a safety issue.

Never skimp on brakes.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

kk so what's the best pads I can get??? EBC greenstuff?

thanks for whipping me into shape by the way.. I was so pissed to find I had all this damn vibration after new rotors...

Thank god I didn't break the rotors in fully with the old pads.. WHHHEWWW

So what should i get?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Im running Hawks. What sort of braking do you do (aggressive, granny stops, ride the brakes, etc)?

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

with new rotors, get new pads. the screws on the rotor dont matter. all they do it keep the rotor on tight when u take out the calipers. when u put the wheel on and tighten it, the rotor will sit flush. also make sure their is no debris behind the rotor, if it doesnt sit flush it will vibrate.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

kk new pads are on the car.. went to break it all in and it's gotten much better but still isn't perfect... So i guess more driving is needed.??

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

i do granny driving until I RIP it.. but i'm moreso heavy on the gas not the brakes... I bought Adaptive One Pads F and R for 200CAD with taxes at NAPA... they have a different pad on each side of the rotor so it's quiet yet good for high heath apps..


Question... should i bleed the brakes?? i had to puch back the caliper pistons to get the new pads on the new rotors and now my pedal seem to bee more cushy... doesn't BITE like it did before..

Will that fix itself or is a bleed needed?

Thanks for all you qucik replys boyZ... the new pads def seem to be helping out with the breakin.

Still some more braking needed to get the damn vibes out but it's lots better!

Maybe it's the CURVED slots that are being a bitch the break in??

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

bleading the breaks is a must/ front and rear. gets the crud and any air out.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

k but i didn't touch the break lines. So i still gotta do it thought right?

is there a specific order I am supposed to do it in or....?

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

driver front, pass front, pass rear, driver rear. dont run low on fluid, always check it after u bleed it 3 times

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

fuck now my E brak is stuck and the car cannot move??


how do i fix that shyt... like how does this happen

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

i jacked the car up and the back tires don't move more than 1 inch and then the wheel locks... so i'm stuck in my driveway!!!!

i never saw this coming.. damnit!! plz help

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

did u pull the ebrake when the rotors were off? or was the ebrake on when u took off the rear rotors? did u do anything to the ebrake while doing the brakes?

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

on the rear rotors theirs a rubber like cap, take that out, pull out, dont push it in or u will have to take the rotor off to get it out. align that hole with a star like washer size, it adjusts the gap between the ebrake shoes and rotor. the hole on the rotor should be somewhere along the bottom. turn the adjusting star thing up or down to adjust the gap. forgot what way is what.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

WOW i got it... I could NOT move the rotors even with a 3 foot pry bar... so i took of the calipers AGAIN and then tooke the screw out and yanked the shit outa the rotors back and forth and it slowly slipped off the HUB..

I turned that sprocket looking thing to adjust the e brake to 100% one way downwards which shrinks the shoes and now allows full movement of my wheels. But what happens now if I use the e brake...

GOD DAMN E BRAKE..

NOW I AM SCARED TO USE IT AGAIN

HOW do i know it wont RE-ADJUST and screw me..
a 2nd time.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

Should have let a shop do it
IDk why your having ebrake problems.

But you do not have to bleed the brakes if you didn't open the lines. Add some fluid & you should be ok. I've never had to in all my cars.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

add fluid??? my resevoir tank is at the max line.. i pushed the pistons back wouldn't the mean there's going to be too much fluid??

E brake got jammed cause the new rotors inside hub is brand new so there is NO WEAR on them. THUS the other rotors had been used for 9 years so they were much WIDER.

So i put the rotors on and then hit the e brake and they adjusted to the original position THINKING I HAD THE SAME ROTORS ON... and so they compressed way too hard so when i let go of the e brake it still was tight.

I phoned my buddy who's a mechanic at acura and he said that's how it always is. Thank god I was able to yank the rotors off... BUT one thing now...

My pedal is mushy... it no longer BITES like it did before... WTF is this all about

Do i gotta bleed the whole system :-( damn... just lay it ON ME..

Or add fluid but IDK why the heck that'd help when I technically pushed fluid out of the lines when i compressed the pistons...

ANYHOO..... just slap me with wtf i need to do. If it's a full bleed I may get my mechanic to do it cause he's a friggin magician.

Rajca.. u've been a BIG help bro. thanks for all ur input!

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

if u need to add fluid after doing breaks, u have a leak. i adjust the ebrake by spinning the rotor, move it a few clicks, spin again, untill it starts the grab a bit. then stop. put wheel on, and test out ebrake.

i just got back from hin, and had some fun on the highway. went from 130-135mph to 55-60mph in no time. got off on a street and measured the temps with my temp gun, and rotors were at 488degs, and went up to 508deg. still stoped like a charm afterwords. ebc red stuff pads, drilled and slotted rotor, dot 4 brake fluid.

op, u will have fun with u new set up, i know u wont drive like me, but a fellow aziner, illtl, was in my car and was surprised on how well they stop at any mph/time. break them in first.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

u can do it yourself with a turkey baster (think thats what its called) or have a friend push the pedal down a few times and hold it while u loosen the bleeder screw, should take no more then 30min, and if i have your ims off already about 10-15min.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

One thing Ive learned concerning cars with ABS, when pushing the piston back into the caliper crack the bleed screw and let the excess fluid flow out of it. Never push the fluid back through the system with any force. You can damage the sensors.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

open the cap on the reservoir, never had a problem in the 4 years doing breaks. thats if u have recently done a flush, u dont want any of the crud going back into the lines / sensors

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

ok I took er for another break in run and the brakes are back in business. It fixed itself. But the wheel still goes left to right when it heats up..

It's definately not like the rotors are warped cause when i do a stop from 20 verry slowly to 0, there is no variance in breakiing power. If they were warped at all u could feel it pinch in a certain area. But there isn't.

I also notice the wear on the rotors from the new pads aren't fully on the rotor... so they defs need more time.

On another note I also noticed the grinding marks from the manufacturer are crisscrossed so wouldn't this mean until those machine marks are completely gone it would not have flawless braking? Because when you machine a rotor at the shop it's done with the wear of the pads on the rotor symetrically.

Correct me if i am wrong.

I think they just need a lot of breaking in... like 100KM worth from the looks of it.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

am i the only dude with this issue or has it been seen many times?

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

It's kinda normal. Just go easy on the brakes for a while till things seat in correctly. Worry after a few hundred miles of driving & braking.

Allout

You should really read this article on breaking in pads and rotors. I'll all make sense after you read it. This is how I break in my pads and rotors on my BBK as well as my stock sized cars.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

Bedding-in Street Performance Pads
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

wow it may take that long? damn well as long as it'll fix itself.

i read that post and I went out and did a bunch of hard breaking then let it cool off while driving then did it again... I've done it 2-3 times.

Not 8-10 times in a row, that sounds crazy! i don't have the ability to be doing that shyt in the city.

So I did it like 4-5 times in a row 2 times on the new pad set now.

It got a bit better but still the heat makes the whobble

RooEng

Did you clean the rotor before you installed them? They have a protective oil on them to prevent them from rusting. You should thoroughly clean them with brake cleaner. The machined grooves will hold some oil so you really have to use a lot of brake cleaner.

The screws are just there to hold the rotor in place so you can get the caliper on.


Did you make sure that both surfaces, hub and rotor, were clean of rust or casting and machining chips? If there's anything between the rotor and hub, it could cause what you're feeling.

Did you torque all the lug nuts evenly, in a star pattern, to the same torque. Do not use an air gun. This could warp the rotors before you even let the jack down.

If the rotors vibrate now, it'll never get any better, no matter how much or how hard you brake. New rotors with old pads will not vibrate. I just replaced my cracked warped rotor with a new AutoZone rotor and used the OE pads and it cured my vibration.

You said they have blue spots on them? Do they all have spots on them?

That means they've been overheated. Those rotors are trash now. If they weren't crossdrilled and slotted you could have them turned. But even then, if you couldn't machine out the blue spots, they will still be bad. The heat changes the properties of the metal and creates hard spots.

Using old pads is OK IF they aren't glazed by overheating and the wear is even. If the original rotor looked good with no grooves or blue spots, there's no reason old pads won't work.

OE pads, low temp pad do not have to be bedded. Doing that much hard braking with OE pads is going to warp the rotors and glaze the pads.

Bedding is only for high temp, high performance pads.

I would take off the rotors, clean the surfaces between the hub and rotor and take each pad and sand the surface. Use a 80 or 120 grit and put the sand paper on a flat surface and run the pad over it until all the shiny part is gone.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

no the rotor blued like it's supposed to when u break them in. When i mean spots i mean like a line... not dots and even that is gone. I didn't heat the shyt outta these things so there's no way they are trashed. They aren't blue now, just after the 1st break in period, then it went back to normal...

I cleaned the back hubs to a tee. so It cannot be that, I tightened the wheel in a star pattern also.

Last thing to do is sand the shit out of everything but i really don't feel like doing this shit all over again.

So I should sand the rotor and the pads to get everything going good?

Or will they just wear in after 2 weeks or so.

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

lol I thought it was farthest from master cylinder so wouldn't that be pass rear, then driver rear, pass front driver front?

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

anytime you get new rotors you need new pads, honestly it sound like you messed up your rotors, I would try and return them and say they were warped but thats just me.

One more question, is this shudder under light braking or heavy breaking?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Not according to the service manual.

richardparker

iTrader: (7)

some rotors are not perfectly true when you get them.I would say get them turned,check for kincks in lines,back off ebrake for now.put on new pads,bleed all wheels once,drive for pedal feel.bleed again and set ebrake and you should be as good as new unless there a problem with sticking caliper,or master cylinder.Was your blueing towards the outer edge of the rotors or completely across the surface.Outer edge only,its most likely there not true

arp408

iTrader: (1)

I'm having the same damn problem with mine. I bought new rotors and pad and it still shakes. It usually shakes when i brake from 65 to 40 mph. I think its gettting worse. so i plan to maybe go to a shop or a brake shop even. I'm just worried they might jack me for the service. Where do you guys think I should go?

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

shudder is under LIGHT BREAKING ONLY AFTER THEY"VE BREAKED BEFORE..

If i get in the car in the morning and go down the road and stop from 60-70km/h it's fine... then it comes after that.

it begins to wiggle back and forth EXTREMELY rapidly.. wayyy faster than one per tire rotation but if i TROMP the brake it goes away.

THAT's what weirding me out now. It should be all the time.

So what do i do.. take them off and get them machined assuming the guy on ebay won't do anything?

Cause if he wants me to ship them BACK it's gonna cost be the same ammount to machine them etc..

GOD DAMNIT why is it always me who gets fucked.

i shopped and shopped for rotors. I bought these ones cause they were expensive and different looking compared to others.

I figured there's no way it could be worse than my 9 year old machined rotors. I was wrong

TypeStylinOnU

put your old rotors back on, see if the shaking is still there, if not then your new rotors are trash