NEW ROTORS ON, now the steering wheel shakes???

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Old 07-12-2009 | 02:31 PM
  #41  
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dude as sooon... as I put the new front rotors on I went for a test drive and it was SO BAD. like a friggin JOKE I paid money for this.

Would taking them off and machining them make it all work proper or what?
Old 07-12-2009 | 02:34 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr
Not according to the service manual.

This is out of Helms on the bleeding sequence.

Old 07-12-2009 | 02:37 PM
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Most your problem is in the front? Did you replace the rears too? And no problems there.This might not seem like a question/answer your looking for but have you checked for play in your tierods?
Old 07-12-2009 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by CL-S progression 01
dude as sooon... as I put the new front rotors on I went for a test drive and it was SO BAD. like a friggin JOKE I paid money for this.

Would taking them off and machining them make it all work proper or what?
getting them turned with new pads,make sure air is not in the lines,and setting your ebrake should make everything fine.If the rotors are your problem
Old 07-12-2009 | 03:13 PM
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k i put on the old rotors on the front and everything is gravy.

So I guess i'm the lucky guy who gets 1 of 1000 bad rotors.

JUST MY LUCK
Old 07-12-2009 | 03:15 PM
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I still have the backs on the car and my new pad set on all the wheels and everything works just fine.

So it aint the installer (me)

It's the luck of the draw apparently
Old 07-12-2009 | 03:24 PM
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It's not that you got a bad set,some rotors just need turning.I bet if you ordered another set from the same place,They would be the same.
Old 07-12-2009 | 03:37 PM
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just need turning???

Sorry what's that?
Old 07-12-2009 | 03:42 PM
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Turning = machining

Contact the seller. I always shy away from ebay brakes.
Old 07-12-2009 | 03:46 PM
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yea i can see ur point now.

hopefully it's fixable for not too much
Old 07-12-2009 | 03:59 PM
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$5 is cheapest each I've seen.$12 is the most I've seen each
Old 07-12-2009 | 03:59 PM
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ebay rotors are sketch.
Old 07-12-2009 | 04:22 PM
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Please. It's spelled "BRAKES" "BRAKING."

kthxbye
Old 07-12-2009 | 04:51 PM
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I frequently switch out pads after track days on the same rotors with new and used pads that have seen different rotors, without issue. I would have chimed in yesterday afternoon and hopefully saved you a headache or two but someone decided to ban me for two days for offering to buy a for sale item in a non-for sale thread....
Old 07-12-2009 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by thevikas87
Please. It's spelled "BRAKES" "BRAKING."

kthxbye
That was irratating me as well

I broke my brakes, now everytime I brake, it breaks.
Old 07-12-2009 | 05:54 PM
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I payed $160 for my fron rotors and $80 or $90 for my pads and no problems
Old 07-12-2009 | 06:58 PM
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Ohhh, when you said blue spots I thought you meant it turned blue due to overheating.

At this point, I would put one rotor at a time to determine if it's just one rotor and which one. I know it's a lot of work but at least you'll know. When you find a bad rotor, try clocking it differently, the screw holes won't line up, but that won't matter. If you have a dial indicator you could measure the run out without putting the caliper on.

And like Pseudomaniac said, a lot of people regularly change pads for the track and change them back after using the same rotors.
Old 07-12-2009 | 07:14 PM
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yea i know so I bought new 200$ pad set for nothing. oh well i'll save the oem ones and use them after... they're soo mint it's hilarious.

I don't drive this car hard usually at all.. I got the brakes cause a few times the rotors were heat soaked and made the wheel move due to however many times they had been machined. I like things to be perfect on my car at least, and I kinda dug myself a hole with this bullox

So i guess I shall get them machined in a few days when i get the time. I'll do both so the thickness is symetrical on both R and L rotors. So shitty I must say. I thought I paid a lot of money so it would avoid all this crap. Thinking More $ = Better material. Guess not.

I've bought rotors for 160 F and R CANADIAN, and they held up for 2 years 45000miles just fine. Required NO break in crap. and also were drilled and had the machine groves the same way.

Man did I screw myself lol

Last edited by CL-S progression 01; 07-12-2009 at 07:18 PM.
Old 07-12-2009 | 07:19 PM
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u will get a pull with one new rotor/pads on one side and old stuff on other side. just put old set up on and see if u still have the vibration
Old 07-12-2009 | 07:20 PM
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u sure the rotor is on the right side? they should be stamp which side they go on if their drilled/slotted
Old 07-12-2009 | 08:25 PM
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lol obv they're on the right side. I've double checked everything possible, 3 times actually. and today I just put back on the other, older rotors in, 25mins with hand tools in my driveway. I'm fast now after all this dicking around. And then everything was fine.

So it's not me. It's the rotors
Old 07-12-2009 | 08:29 PM
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talk to the ebay seller if he can do anything about it. since its his product tell him that rotors were warped and he should pay for shipping both ways
Old 07-12-2009 | 08:33 PM
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done that about 6 hrs ago
Old 07-12-2009 | 08:43 PM
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and no go? u can get them resurface, but will not hold up for as long. not all shops will do it and if they do it they will charge u a bit more bc the drilled and slotted rotors eat up the cutting teeth faster
Old 07-12-2009 | 09:24 PM
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I've bought two sets of the "ebay" rotors - which are normally just OEM rotors with machining. It's possible to get a bad set - thought I've not encountered it. Buy another set, or make dude send some to you. Don't be surprised if he doesn't want the old ones back.

They do offer improvement in fading - but remember you're reducing stopping surface as well. If you're not running more aggressive pads, you're not capturing the max benefit.

Don't confuse the benefits of these with Brembo kits, which are better steel, larger in diameter, and include upgrades in clamping force and friction surface.
Old 07-13-2009 | 08:06 AM
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buddy selling the rotors at Quick Stop pro said to send him pictures of the rotors so their tech could look at it. And they assured me I'd be "taken care of".

I sure as hell hope so. For all this dicking around they better send me a medal as well.
Old 07-13-2009 | 09:21 AM
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Wtf is the tech gonna see in the pics? U need to feel/ see the dial indicator move.
Old 07-13-2009 | 10:36 AM
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Exactly what I was thinking.
Old 07-13-2009 | 12:50 PM
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yea yea p2r plenums just came in today.. that'll get my mind off all this horseshit!!..

Got them for 400 CAD shipped to my door.

They got a few nicks here and there but i'm gonna grind them all out then prolly get it powder-coated. Or buy g2caliper paint and use the leftovers on the plenums then throw it in the ovew and cook that paint on, and it'll look powdercoated anyways.

as for the rotors, u know how these ebay dudes work, they msg in the morning once or twice and thats it for the day.
Old 07-14-2009 | 10:56 PM
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You need to refinish the new rotors on the car, per TSB 00-037 "Brake Disc Refinishing Guidelines"

http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B00-037.PDF
Old 07-15-2009 | 05:00 AM
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but that is on oem rotors. he has aftermarket. i never had a problem with my aftermarket rotors. i clean them up and slap them on
Old 07-15-2009 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Rajca
but that is on oem rotors. he has aftermarket. i never had a problem with my aftermarket rotors. i clean them up and slap them on
yeah but you also brake like a mad man all the time.
Old 07-15-2009 | 12:11 PM
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^^ true, true. And my rotors and pads are doing far better than I thought. Only combo I'm gonna stick with now. Still need to do the nsx swap
Old 07-15-2009 | 06:35 PM
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kk so i guess I shall machine the fronts and that's about it...?

I'll have to wait for the next set whenever they friggin come.

I'll put them on the shelf for when the first set craps out LOL.

POS
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