Nersh7

Why you may ask, well not because I have so many mods that my stock one is just not holding up. Not because I have the funds to just get a new one but because my stock set up with 111xxx miles on it just shit the bed So now I get to do some research on here because I know there is a few options I have but in the mean while if there are any suggestions you guys may have as to what I should get that would be a cost effective replacement would be awesome...

So uhhh ya well I feel like shit especially because it happened while I was showing a friend the car with the fixed IMRC and headers and the difference it made, then I go to shift into 4th after a hard pull through the first three and it just revs up with a decrease in speed like I just stopped. I think I have an idea of how pits feels right now, or at least a fraction of it.. end rant..... for now

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

Search clutch options something should come up. There was a thread about all sets what we canget for our cars

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

this thread has basically all the info you need. https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/first-glance-6-speed-clutch-combinations-770172/

Personally i am saving up to buy clutchmaster stage 3. It is $1230. I will probably replace mine around same miles as you. i am at 97k now.

If it says you may not use UR crank pulley, does that apply for the option underdrive pulley also?

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

We've had good experiences with this kit:

http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-251870.aspx

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I love the CM stage 3 clutch.

But op - was there any banging or is the clutch just slipping?

Nersh7

Well it was just slipping at first, and actually agian I have no experience with anything like this so the title for this thread may be wrong but what happened was..

Driving along, ripping through the gears, going into third there was a lot of slipping like a good couple seconds worth, then as I go to shift into fourth there is a clunk and my RPM's shot up but I didn't go anywhere. Naturally I thought I missed the shift so I tried it again and the pedal took no effort to compress, so in order to shift gears to get home I had to match rpms to actual speed which wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. But from what this sounds like with the pedal going "soft" I guess is there anything specifically that it would be like pressure plate fly wheel ect.?? It drove fine when in gear but the clutch is completely useless for shifting.

I would love the stage 3 CM clutch but am not sure if I really want to keep this exact car right now soo I have a hard time justifying that.

Nersh7

I was looking at this exact page last night lol

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

Something similar is happening for a while but i still can shift. After ripage the clutch catches very low but i pump pedal few times and its back to normal. Talk to rajca about clutch he can get you oem for really cheap.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

lol. i got a hook up. u can get the p2r 6 puck disk. $180 or so.

anyway. dont want to thread jack but,, replaced the clutch, all went well. but car doesnt move. its in gear but just revs up. did i install the clutch dist the wrong way? is that even possible?
helms print out or all data would help if someone has access to it

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

found the problem. left axle wasnt in all the way into the trans. fixed and the clutch grabs good, need to get used to the feel.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

dont rip it atleast for first 1000 miles

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

^hahahaha. i know. but im taking it racing sunday so 1000 isnt gonna happen

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

You're doing it wrong. It will fail soon. Wanna do it again? Worthless

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

I know. But my flywheel and pp were all burned up. Just need this to last the next few months then tranring everything apart and building the engine up

nspec_ya4

iTrader: (38)

any body knows if our clutch is the same as 04 TL 6 speed and 03+ Accord?

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

Part number iirc was the same whan i was looking for it. But im not 100% sure

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

IIRC the only difference is the flywheel. You cannot use the Accord/TL flywheel in the CL.

CL-Future

Isn't there a wait/leadtime on the Stage 3 clutches from Clutchmaster?

Excelerate, do you have these in stock ready to go? Also, on your site it says it includes the flywheel but at the bottom the flywheel isn't listed under the "Includes"

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

it is possible, but normally it won't disengage though (the flywheel bolts will actually hit the disk, so not possible to disengage

Nersh7

So the shop told me today that it would be roughly $1400 with parts, and without parts ~$800 for labour, does this sound right? and what do you guys think about their parts? It would be an OE replacement part so I don't know how I feel about that.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

Oem flywheel is about 450 and about 200 for thr clutch disk and pressure plate. Better to get oem and have them do the job. Its not hard replacing the clutch if u have time and the right tools

Nersh7

oh and one more question, I thought I read something about our flywheels not being able to be refinished/surfaced, is this true or was I dreaming it?

Nersh7

Ok, what sort of tools would be needed? and what sort of time?

I've never had to deal with any sort of clutch work before but I'm eager to learn and want to get it right thats why I have so many questions.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

my clutch was ~350$ + 400$ labor + 50$ resurface flywheel(if you want change flywheel go for LuK one ~250 online)

i got my clutch done for about 800$

i do not suggest to do it yourself...

Nersh7

defintely not something I would tackle myself but I have some family that is more than capable of doing the job, so I have help if I need it... and pretty much a shop

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

The parts ship from CM; usually takes a day or two to build the kit. The kit that is about $1250-$1300 includes the flywheel.

Nersh7

Ok, so my budget only really allowed me to go with an OE replacement clutch, which isn't that big of a deal in my mind.

My question now is about the break in period? how long should I wait before I put any sort of stress on it? the shop said its pretty much good to go now but I don't believe that for an instant.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

750miles of stop and go driving before shifting hard or WOT.

Nersh7

That sounds right,
Thanks!

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

about right, and if you want to be on the safe side, do a 1000 miles

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

is that how it works?

i did about 10 before i got up on it. than took it easy for a bit. and at about 250-300 miles on the clutch, i went racing today and it grabbed every time, no problems with it

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

btw i just got my new clutch today , and they actually only say it needs 500 miles before you can go hard on it (clutchmasters btw)


and i think the biggest thing rajca is that they don't want you to be overheating it right off the bat, cause they want a nice slow curing process for all the glues and such in the disc

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

clutch seem to be working fine for me. i only need it for a few months. then stage 4 CM kit

Nersh7

Shit, so my car hates 5th gear now. Driving along today at about 80km/h in 5th and all of a sudden it just popped out of gear. I didn't break, accelerate or anything other than a consistent easy speed and it just jumped out of gear. This happened a couple times last night and today so I'm going to go back to the shop because I can't even use that gear anymore.

Thought on what might be causing this?

DaInFaMMuS1

Good thing you'll only need it for that long, cuz that's all it'll last for since you didn't break it in properly. I know from experience.

Jacobpockros

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that has nothing to do with your clutch. Your 5th gear syncro is going bad

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

not always, but very possible though

routing the cables wrong and such can also cause issues like that too (but why did it pick 5th, maybe that is where the cable is the "shortest"; and as he said he was cruising along, so it allows time for the right set of circumstances to show up also, for it to pop out of gear [and considering this showed up after the tranny was just out, very possibly])


also OP check fluid level too, might be too much (if they did not know about the fill "height" plug [easy mistake to make]) or too low (stupidity)(since the axles have to come out, which will drain alot if not all the fluid out)
then also did they put in the correct fluid too (kinda hard to tell though ); but that might be possibly another cause for it to pop out of 5th

Nersh7

I'll have to ask them when I go back on tuesday, also they fucked up when they put my hood back on. closest to the windsheild there is a huge gap where the hood is higher than the fender and to low at the front, not overly happy with this shop at the moment.

When I get some time this week I'll drain the fluid and put in the honda stuff

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

y did they take off the hood?

Nersh7

No clue, but it wasn't that bad before so someone fucked up