Ok, I'm cheating here a little bit.

Lets say hypothetically I had a CLS6 and I had the clutch replaced about 7K miles ago. Now when the tranny gets up to temp and I come to a stop, put the tranny in neutral and let the clutch out and ilde, then when I try to put it back into gear it won't go. I try 1st, then 2nd, nothing. I have to either force it or it helps to go to 3rd or 4th then 1st. But still needs a bit more then normal force to get it to go into gear.

I feels like a syncro problem to me but why would it only do it when it is warm? If the syncros are bad should it not matter what temp the tranny is?

New fluid, new clutch. Pedal feels ok.

Any ideas?

Im worried I'm going to end up breaking a shift fork!

 

You Wont break a shift fork because they are super thick. But what you will do is wear out the synchro by forcing it into gear. And that's an expensive fix because you will need a new gear set for every synchro you buy.

The fact that it doesn't grind when shifting and actually prevents u from going in means your synchs are in good order.

I would drain all the fluid out and top off the trans to the correct level. 3.7 qts. If this doesn't fix your problem then check to make sure your cable isn't binding under the car where it goes over the sub frame back into the engine bay.

Make sure you clutch is bled as well.
This is a two person job but it goes as follows.

Tools: 8mm open ended wrench
Materials: brake fluid

Person one will pump the clutch pedal all the way to the carpet 5 times and hold it down as hard as possible on the 6th pump.
Person two will then turn the bleeder screw counter clockwise to relieve the pressure.
Person Two will then tighten the bleeder screw
Person one will pull the clutch pedal back up and repeat the process
Person two should keep the resevior topped off during this process to avoid air re entering the system.

This process should be done about 3 times or until the fluid that comes out of the slave cylinder is perfectly clear with no white bubbles or sputtering.

Good luck.

This should fix your problem.

Ps. I would start by checking the cables first then doing the bleed before buying new trans fluid.

 

Sounds like a bad slave to me. Or a problems with the fluid/lines. You can try a bleed.

 

Thanks guys.

I just drained the 7K miles old Royal Purple 75w90 oil and put regular Valvoline 75w90 in.(Thats what is called for for my "Hypothetical CLS6" lol) It is topped off.

When I did the oil change hoping to fix the problem ( i thought the RP might be the problem) I was going to bleed the clutch but did not trust my six year old boy not to lift the pedal when i had the bleeder open. Have to wait till the wife can help. That will be the next thing i try. Luckly the slave is on the out side of my bell housing. Should be a easy fix if that the problem.

I'm wondering if there is a little air in the line and when it gets hot the air is expanding causing more of a problem? Like i said it only happens when it is hot.

 

i concur with both^^^.
i bet it is just the fluid though

 

It could be a number of things but I will never run royal purple in manuals ever. I just cracked open a Tsx trans that's been running royal purple for a long time and the fluid is practically shiny silver from all the metal shavings.

Good luck and please update the thread.

 

HWen I drained it after 7K miles it still looked brand new. still purple too.

Anyways, If I change the slave cylinder di I have to bench bleed it or do I just out it on then start bleeding it? They only cost $35 bucks from teh LPS, and it is on the outside of teh bell housing, so it should be easy.

 

Id bench bleed it to make it easier to bleed once installed.