Light Rims?
SSR GT1's are light. http://www.tirerack.com
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I would not sacrafice looks for weight...Get the nice looking rims, instead of the light ones. If you can find nice rims that are light then bonus. I just do not think that 5-10 lbs on a 3460lb car will make enough difference. I bought my rims because I thought that they looked sweet on my car...Just my 2 cents worth
Originally posted by Artwork
I would not sacrafice looks for weight...Get the nice looking rims, instead of the light ones. If you can find nice rims that are light then bonus. I just do not think that 5-10 lbs on a 3460lb car will make enough difference. I bought my rims because I thought that they looked sweet on my car...Just my 2 cents worth
I would not sacrafice looks for weight...Get the nice looking rims, instead of the light ones. If you can find nice rims that are light then bonus. I just do not think that 5-10 lbs on a 3460lb car will make enough difference. I bought my rims because I thought that they looked sweet on my car...Just my 2 cents worth
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Originally posted by Ant7701
it's not that you'll be saving 5-10lbs per wheel....it's that u'll be saving 20-40;bs of rotational driving weight...just like installing a lighter flywheel or driveshaft...BIG difference!!!
it's not that you'll be saving 5-10lbs per wheel....it's that u'll be saving 20-40;bs of rotational driving weight...just like installing a lighter flywheel or driveshaft...BIG difference!!!
after installing my summer light 18s and tires I was immediately able to feel a difference .. car felt quicker upon acceleration, and lighter when braking. major improvement in handling.
Rim & wheel weight savings are a big plus in 0-60 and 1/4 mile times.
I went with 18lb Konigs and 21lb Toyos as my first mods. I was beating guys with header and intake mods because I was killing them off the line. I ran a 14.65 with just these mods.
On the other note, while weight was important, cost and looks were too. I would have loved the SSRs, but not at 2x the price.
On a side note, the impact of wheel rate reductions in more important the further from the centerline of axle you are. So if I understand this correctly, going with a 12-14lb wheel is great, but it's negated by a 25-26 tire. So I feel that my 18ln wheel with a 21lb tire is better.
Ruf
I went with 18lb Konigs and 21lb Toyos as my first mods. I was beating guys with header and intake mods because I was killing them off the line. I ran a 14.65 with just these mods.
On the other note, while weight was important, cost and looks were too. I would have loved the SSRs, but not at 2x the price.
On a side note, the impact of wheel rate reductions in more important the further from the centerline of axle you are. So if I understand this correctly, going with a 12-14lb wheel is great, but it's negated by a 25-26 tire. So I feel that my 18ln wheel with a 21lb tire is better.
Ruf
Originally posted by blader
yes absolutely right...saving weight and saving rotational weight are two different things. I've heard from a wrx friend of mine that saving 1lb on a wheel is like saving 7lbs in the car. my summer setup saves 6lbs a wheel over my stock setup...so 6x7=42lbs .. 42x4 = 168lbs .. that is significant. not sure how true it is but it makes sense.
after installing my summer light 18s and tires I was immediately able to feel a difference .. car felt quicker upon acceleration, and lighter when braking. major improvement in handling.
yes absolutely right...saving weight and saving rotational weight are two different things. I've heard from a wrx friend of mine that saving 1lb on a wheel is like saving 7lbs in the car. my summer setup saves 6lbs a wheel over my stock setup...so 6x7=42lbs .. 42x4 = 168lbs .. that is significant. not sure how true it is but it makes sense.
after installing my summer light 18s and tires I was immediately able to feel a difference .. car felt quicker upon acceleration, and lighter when braking. major improvement in handling.
I think the term is 'unsprung weight'
Ruf
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