so i noticed a few days ago the ignition is a little notchy so i tried my other key today (the valet key) and it works beautifully... so the main key is wearing out since i start my car at least 5 times a day on average... sometimes 15 (cause I use my car for service work etc....)

my question IS

can program the key or does the DLR have to do it? dealer wants 55 for key and 125 for programing... WHATA a scam.

i looked all over Zine but i only found infor on reprogramming the fob and not the key.

any insight would be greatly appreciated guys.

 

Dealer needs to do it so the immobilizer works properly. Unless you just want to carry both keys with you.

 

The instructions are laid out in the service manual. I don't have mine any longer but maybe someone that does can post it. I don't remember if you can do it yourself with 1 key or maybe 2.
You can use the valet key you have. It will do everything but lock the console or glove box.

The key you can buy off ebay & then get a locksmith to cut it

 

You can't program the immobilizer yourself. You need an HDS to do it.

 

^^^True story...don't even want to get into my mishearing my service tech say forty bucks when in actuality he said $140 and I signed and approved it...

at least I got my switchblade key though...

OP, why not contact heeltoe about having a switchblade key made instead. At least that way you'll feel like you're getting SOMETHING for your money!

 

The key itself could be milled and you could get the immobilizer to work, but the keyless entry wont. The FCC ids between the CL and the TL are different.

 

^^sombody has to know how to go around it ? Now I'm stuck with 2 switchblades

 

If you haven't milled them, I'm sure you could sell em.

CIvic, didn't know that.

 

That's right I remember now yeah it's not programmable by the user, Just like everything else in the 2nd gen's......
On some cars you could cut a new key, then cut the key part off the bad key so it's just the head, & tape it to your new key & it may work.

 

i don't want a ghetto fix lol thanks tho guys for all the feedback.

I will see if my acura tech buddys can get it done on the side for free.... if not i will just rock the valet key. I cannot phathom spending 2xs what the cut key is worth on programming the son of a bitch.

i just spent 105$ on the drivers side wiper arm cause my spring was basically no longer a spring lol. everything is expensive as hell for this car... i love it to death but daymmnn gimme a break chief

 

Yeah, but it looks like no other car on the road and there is something that is truly good for the soul when you replace things and keep it like new. Get a key.

 

If your buddies cant do it for free, go to a Honda dealer. Same electronics, same techs, same training, cheaper prices.

 

^^^that goes for the 105K service too!

 

1 . homedepot sells the key and programs it for 39$

2. ive lost my 2 main keys and only have a valet .. whats different about it that doesnt allow it to open trunk /glove box? cut or are the channels different ?

 

probably just lacking extra cuts, hence a valet key for valets so they don't steal your stuff.

btw, how the hell do you lose 2 keys.

 

wish it were two keys.. got an '05 xterra given to me by my dad ... went to DMV to register had 2 honda keys 2 xterra keys one ford key all chipped and 4 key fobs plus two house keys link together ... later went golfing they some how must have fallen out of my bag... all gone !

 

What Home Depots program immobilizer chips??

And yes, the valet key is missing additional cuts.

 

Has anyone installed a starter button? I am working on my dash switch panel now.

 

Not that I know of. I remember back in my Civic/CRX days (not long ago ), people would remove the ignition key cylinder entirely and replace it with the starter button. Theyd have a two point rocker switch wired in, one position was ACC, the other was ON. They cut power to it using their alarm. It worked, Im just not sure how secure it truly was. I didnt like that they had to use their alarm to shut the car off and that you lose the steering column lock as well.

For the CL, youd still need a key due to the immobilizer chip - unless you disable it. Its not hard to tap into the ignition wiring for the leads. Just turn the key to ON then hit the button. Kinda pointless IMO though.

 

ya anywhere for 39 to 69 $ the honda one is 39

 

I read you can get a locksmith to program the key for you too. When I purchased my master key from the dealer for 80 bucks, they programmed it for me for free.

 

The valet key has the exact same cuts and channels as the main keys. The only difference is that the valet key is THICKER than the main keys. So if you lose both main keys, you can use your valet as the source to copy the cut to a main key. That will work!

Of course, you do still need to get the new key programmed to the immobilizer, which only dealers and certain locksmiths with the right equipment can do.

 

I asked the one I was in today just to see. The guy looked at me with a blank stare. Said they don't do that. Guess it's only some.

 

BTW u guys know i work for homedepot ... appliance specialist LOL ...9 years cant imagine only some do it but the one around here all do

 

Some dealers sure rape people in the ass for keys. My local Acura dealer charged $24 for the key including cutting and programming. Dealer on the other side of town wanted $42.

 

if it was even that cheap where i live i'd have gotten it

 

Hit up some local Honda dealerships and see if their pricing is any different. I see a lot of different between the 3 Acura dealerships here in the Twin Cities. Sometimes one will want $40 more for the same part than another. If the Honda dealers are cheaper you can either get a key from them with the Honda logo or order an Acura one online and just have them program it.

 

A lot of Honda dealers can order Acura parts. Most dont have access to the Acura catalog, just give them the part number.

 

It will work to start the car but you can't lock the glovebox or the rear console box with the valet key. You lock them with the master key then give the valet the "valet key" so the valet doesn't unlock and steal what you have in the locked boxes.

 

Yes, that is how the valet key works. What I meant in my post is that if you lost both main keys and only have the valet key, you can buy new main key blanks and use the valet key as the original to cut the main keys. The cuts and channels are the same. After that, you would have one valet key original and two freshly cut main keys that you can use to open everything AND start the vehicle (assuming you have the keys programmed into the immobilizer).

 

You can't use the main key to open everything if it was cut from a valet key. If you do that, the only difference between the two is that they are of a different color. The valet key is missing some points that the main key has. These points are used to unlock the storage and glovebox.
But this is assuming that an uncut master key does not have these special grooves cut into them from the start. It's been too long for me to remember.




These pics show something similar to what I'm referring to except my master key has 3 extra grooves towards the middle of the key.

 

I'm looking at my original 01 CL Type S Valet and Master keys right now and the cuts and grooves are identical. The only difference that makes them different (besides the color) is that the valet key is THICKER than the master key.

 

^^ i just compared mine as well and you are right. only difference is thickness.. weird i must admit but ur right

 

I'm glad someone finally believes me!!! Honda has always done valet keys that way (thicker) until they switched to the current laser keys or whatever you call those keys on current models. Now those definitely have different cuts between valet and main keys!

Too bad you aren't close to Seattle, or I'd program your keys for you for free!

 

Here are a couple pics I took of my keys. The top key is the valet key, the bottom is the master key. I do agree with you that the valet key is slightly thicker but in addition to that, you can see the additional raised grooves that the master key has and like I said earlier, the grooves are towards the middle of the key.

 

Not to continue the argument, but I guess this is an educational discussion. The reason your master key has different looking cuts is that it's not an original key. That's a T5 key that you must have gotten from the dealer at some point. A T5 key is a clone key that lets you clone the transponder code from an existing key to itself. So with this key, you don't have to program it to the car, you "copy" the code from an original key to this key.

But the real reason the cuts are different is that the dealer probably took your VIN number and cut the key from that instead of using a real key to cut it. When they use the VIN to cut the key, they have this notching-type machine that they use to literally "punch-out" notches in the key corresponding to exactly where the lock tumbler pins are. This machine isn't even powered... it's like a mechanical hole punch. The end result is a key that works exactly like the real key, but the cuts look different because they only notch out what's required and not smooth cut the entire key like how normal keys are copied.

The thickness is still the only thing that distinguishes a valet key from a master key.

Hope that makes sense...

 

learn something new every day

 

I suppose it does since I did get the key from the dealer. So how does the lock on the glove box and rear storage box know the difference between the master and valet keys? Just by the thickness?

 

Yes, surprising, it is only by thickness. The lock pins in the glove box and rear storage box have extra pins at the thikcer locations. When the thicker key is inserted it pushes up and down on these pins and that locks the tumbler from turning. The thinner master key isn't thick enough to hit those edge pins at the thicker locations so it's no issue. In all locks though are the central main pins that must comform to the basic cut of the key to be able to turn the ignition and/or other locks.

Ok... done with Honda lock class for today!

 

Oh gotcha. I thought it was the extra notches in my master key hitting those pins. From my pictures, you can probably see why I made that assumption.