Just Bought OptionRacing Pulley

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Old 05-06-2009, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr
Power steering pump has a tensioner bolt on the top. Turn that out and it should loosen. If it doesnt move, the two nuts holding the pump to the bracket are probably really tight, so loosen them as well, they are on the bottom of the pump. You need to remove part of the engine mount bracket to get that belt out.

The alternator/a/c compressor belt has a tensioner on it. Take a 14mm (I think) wrench and put it on the bolt that is in the center of the tensioner. Turn it like you are loosening it. Slide the belt out. The tensioner is spring loaded, so let it back down easily.

Sorry Mark if I am jacking your thread.
pictures would be really nice
Old 05-06-2009, 02:09 PM
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Hmmmmm. Maybe Ill take some. We'll have to see how I feel when I get home.
Old 05-06-2009, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Fast4you
pictures would be really nice

The Alt. Belt and A/C belt loosen via the idler pulley to the left of the alternator. You put a 14mm wrench on the nut thats in the middle of the idler pully and turn it counter-clockwise. Hold it in place while someone removes the belt, be very careful because the tensioner nut is spring loaded and if the wrench slips and someones hand is in the wrong place theres gonna be alot of pain.

The Power steering belt has a little bolt on top of the p/s pump that you can turn letf or right to loosen or tighten the p/s belt. The side engine mount has to be unbolted and moved out of the way in order to remove the old p/s belt and to put in the new one. After the new p/s belt is in place dont forget to put the side engine mount back on.

I dont have a picture but I made a quick sketch in MS Paint. It isnt perfect and its kinda messy but you get the idea.

Old 05-06-2009, 02:34 PM
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Can you get the bolt that hold the pulley on off w/o a breaker bar buy just pulling the fuse and cranking it?
I was at the shop but they where not able to do it they where really busy so i guess I'm gonna have to put this off for a couple of days, I would really like to do it myself , but seems like a little more then i can chew..
Old 05-06-2009, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by bigmark89
The Alt. Belt and A/C belt loosen via the idler pulley to the left of the alternator. You put a 14mm wrench on the nut thats in the middle of the idler pully and turn it counter-clockwise. Hold it in place while someone removes the belt, be very careful because the tensioner nut is spring loaded and if the wrench slips and someones hand is in the wrong place theres gonna be alot of pain.

The Power steering belt has a little bolt on top of the p/s pump that you can turn letf or right to loosen or tighten the p/s belt. The side engine mount has to be unbolted and moved out of the way in order to remove the old p/s belt and to put in the new one. After the new p/s belt is in place dont forget to put the side engine mount back on.

I dont have a picture but I made a quick sketch in MS Paint. It isnt perfect and its kinda messy but you get the idea.

Hey big mark where in NJ are you going by your ZIP you are close im 07057..
U wanna make a couple of buck and help me get this thing on right now?

Just a though...
Old 05-06-2009, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by StonedCL
Hey big mark where in NJ are you going by your ZIP you are close im 07057..
U wanna make a couple of buck and help me get this thing on right now?

Just a though...
Hackensack is like 3 miles from me...
Old 05-06-2009, 04:19 PM
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You can use the old ratchet in a pipe method as a breaker bar.
Old 05-06-2009, 04:58 PM
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cant wait till the DIY is up. i was thinking about doing the same ting because i have not seen on on here for the pulley. I wonder what the wight differences are though from stock crank pulley to the option crank pulley or others like bombz, ralco, unorth and what not.

gl on the install hopefully the crank nut comes off with little hassle.
Old 05-06-2009, 08:36 PM
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I didnt have time to do it today, I want it done ASAP.. if i cant get it done by monday at my work bigmark will help me do it next week some time.. But if someone can post a DIY with pics that would be a big help to my co-workers at work they dont do many undrive pulleys if any.. I lknow alot of people ordered the option pulley in the last month and are getting it installed in the next week or so.. So take some pics guys!
Old 05-06-2009, 09:28 PM
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I think i have some pics from when I changed my timing belt........let me do some searching
Old 05-06-2009, 09:29 PM
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this weekend when im doing mine I might snap some photos and tell you how I did it
Old 05-07-2009, 10:20 AM
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I knew I shouldve taken pics when I did mine.

I believe there is a DIY on the TL side though, which is the same thing.
Old 05-07-2009, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr
I knew I shouldve taken pics when I did mine.

I believe there is a DIY on the TL side though, which is the same thing.
link?
Old 05-07-2009, 04:37 PM
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If u guys cant find Gates belts here are the other part #'s

Gates K060441 = Metric 6PK1120 = Goodyear 4060441

Gates K040425 = Metric 4PK1079 = Goodyear 4040425
Old 05-07-2009, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Fast4you
link?
As always, I cant seem to find the links anymore
Old 05-07-2009, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr
As always, I cant seem to find the links anymore
your killing me smalls....jk
Old 05-07-2009, 10:16 PM
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Lol, but seriously, it's a really easy install if youve got the tools (breaker bar, ratchet, tq wrench, 14mm socket, 17mm socket, extensions, 14mm wrench, and there may be a 12mm socket in there somewhere).
Old 05-07-2009, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr
Lol, but seriously, it's a really easy install if youve got the tools (breaker bar, ratchet, tq wrench, 14mm socket, 17mm socket, extensions, 14mm wrench, and there may be a 12mm socket in there somewhere).
what do you need the ratchet for?
Old 05-07-2009, 11:05 PM
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Loosening the power steering pump and removing the engine mount bracket.

Dont worry about supporting the motor or getting things out of alignment when you unbolt the mount. Its not a load bearing mount.
Old 05-07-2009, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr
Loosening the power steering pump and removing the engine mount bracket.

Dont worry about supporting the motor or getting things out of alignment when you unbolt the mount. Its not a load bearing mount.
were is the mount located I don't wanna unbolt the wrong one
Old 05-08-2009, 12:21 AM
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Right there by the power steering pump. You cant miss it. Theres a bracket coming off the mount that attaches to the engine with 2 14mm bolts. Unbolt those and move the bracket out of your way, then you can take the power steering belt out.
Old 05-08-2009, 10:54 AM
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I just had mine put on by the shop I work at ..Took him 30 min and they charged me $35.
I really didnt push it yet but from normal driving did not notice a difference. I read somewhere that it takes about a week to reset, If i dissconnect the battery will it reset right away and I will notice the improvement right away or am I gonna have to wait a week like they say.
Old 05-08-2009, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by StonedCL
I just had mine put on by the shop I work at ..Took him 30 min and they charged me $35.
I really didnt push it yet but from normal driving did not notice a difference. I read somewhere that it takes about a week to reset, If i dissconnect the battery will it reset right away and I will notice the improvement right away or am I gonna have to wait a week like they say.
disconnect the battery to reset the ecu
Old 05-08-2009, 01:34 PM
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Yea, isn't it true the A/T computer needs to relearn shift patterns after the pulley install?
Old 05-08-2009, 01:56 PM
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i dissconected the battery and left it off for a hour and reconnected it put the radio code in but did not drive it yet. I will let you guys know how it feels. The option pulley is ALOT lighter like 10lbs if i was to guess, the stock pulley wieghs a ton compared to the option pulley!
Old 05-08-2009, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by StonedCL
I just had mine put on by the shop I work at ..Took him 30 min and they charged me $35.
I really didnt push it yet but from normal driving did not notice a difference. I read somewhere that it takes about a week to reset, If i dissconnect the battery will it reset right away and I will notice the improvement right away or am I gonna have to wait a week like they say.
Nice! Yea its a very quick install if you have the right tools, but I dont think the pulley is a mod that needs ECU reseting. With headers or an intake you are changing the A/F ratios so the ECU needs to adjust to the new ratios, but the pulley is just reducing drag on the engine so rpm's rise quicker so theres nothing the ecu needs to adjust.

I might be wrong so i'll wait for someone to chime in to either confirm this or disprove it

-Mark
Old 05-08-2009, 02:55 PM
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The unorthodoz underdrive pulley web site's instructions have this with the crank pulley instalation guide...


• Maximum HP gains will occur in 5-7 days of installation, once computer recalibrates to take advantage of engines lighter rotational weight

SO i figured reseting the ECU will speed up the process, I might be wrong..

http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/guides/020611002.pdf
Old 05-08-2009, 04:17 PM
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ecu is in a constant staet of learning ... just install and drive
Old 05-08-2009, 04:38 PM
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Quick question, i searched around to find the goodyear gatorbacks and all they had is 4060440 and 4040425. Buddy told me at partsource the difference between 4060440 and 4060441 is barely anything and the tensioner will make up for that?

Is this true? cause I'm installing it tomorrow and I don't wanna run into a snag like that!. THANK YOU

Last edited by CL-S progression 01; 05-08-2009 at 04:41 PM.
Old 05-08-2009, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by CL-S progression 01
Quick question, i searched around to find the goodyear gatorbacks and all they had is 4060440 and 4040425. Buddy told me at partsource the difference between 4060440 and 4060441 is barely anything and the tensioner will make up for that?

Is this true? cause I'm installing it tomorrow and I don't wanna run into a snag like that!. THANK YOU
If the its for the power steering then I think it would be fine to use it because you can adjust the tightness of the power steering belt. But if its for the alternator and a/c belt then I dont think you can use it. The alt. a/c belt cant be tightened or loosened, all you can do is relieve the tension or apply full tension and any excess length will compromise the amount of tension thats on the belt and a belt thats too loose wont turn the pulleys properly. And remember the belt will stretch a litle bit over time, so if you start with a longer belt and over time it stretches its just gonna get longer

Id look around some more if I wear you, even if you get one belt thats Goodyear and another thats NAPA it will be fine. Gates actually manufactures NAPA belts, so you'll be fine with a napa one.

-Mark
Old 05-08-2009, 06:41 PM
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it's the thinner one. Power steering. I checked it all out today.

LOL i scout all my stuff out before going into surgery

I hate snagggs. must think of everything b4...

So I should B fine or should I really just return it and get the other size in another brand?

Last edited by CL-S progression 01; 05-08-2009 at 06:44 PM.
Old 05-08-2009, 06:51 PM
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sry it's the thicker one, not the pwr steering. I dunno wtf i was thnkin b4 lol.

so yea i'm faked. return her and get the right size
Old 05-08-2009, 07:12 PM
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i've called napa, canadiantire, partsource and that number doesn't come up in their systems. ? only 4060440 and that's 1120 mm i think... mmm lol now i really don't think it will

Last edited by CL-S progression 01; 05-08-2009 at 07:16 PM.
Old 05-08-2009, 07:52 PM
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I tried installing the crank pulley today and no dice couldnt get that dang bolt off I tried the breaker bar method I tried using the starter and tried an air wrench and none of them worked I had someone holding the brake and it was in 6th gear. I have it soaking in pb blaster right now and will try again tomorrow any suggestions for getting that bolt off?
Old 05-08-2009, 08:09 PM
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I usea dalco belts i found at struass auto or some store like that.
Dayco uses the metric #'s... or was it delco..not sure...
the boxes said:
Metric 6PK1120 and Metric 4PK1079
Those where the part #'s on the boxes at the store it was napa or strauss and those belts worked perfect!
Old 05-08-2009, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Fast4you
I tried installing the crank pulley today and no dice couldnt get that dang bolt off I tried the breaker bar method I tried using the starter and tried an air wrench and none of them worked I had someone holding the brake and it was in 6th gear. I have it soaking in pb blaster right now and will try again tomorrow any suggestions for getting that bolt off?
Do u live by the ocean, the salt air might have got it lodged on there..
The tech said mine came of with ease just used the air gun, I specificly asked him if it was hard and he said it came off easy, no breker bar , no starter moter help just air gun!
Old 05-08-2009, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by StonedCL
Do u live by the ocean, the salt air might have got it lodged on there..
The tech said mine came of with ease just used the air gun, I specificly asked him if it was hard and he said it came off easy, no breker bar , no starter moter help just air gun!
there is no rust on my car I want to use my impact wrench but cannot figure out how to give it more torque I mean I know it is capable of getting this thing off I just cant get the torque up for it. Its a

ingersoll rand 231C 1/2"
Old 05-08-2009, 09:18 PM
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6PK1120 is listed on the Goodyear gatorback belt label underneather the 4060440...

Other gatorback number 6060425 says 4PK1080

So this means It'll work?

Just a weird part number discrepancy?

PLEASE what's it gonna take to get the right damn belts.

Last edited by CL-S progression 01; 05-08-2009 at 09:22 PM.
Old 05-08-2009, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Fast4you
I tried installing the crank pulley today and no dice couldnt get that dang bolt off I tried the breaker bar method I tried using the starter and tried an air wrench and none of them worked I had someone holding the brake and it was in 6th gear. I have it soaking in pb blaster right now and will try again tomorrow any suggestions for getting that bolt off?
When installing my ur pulley I tried everything at my boys shop to get that damn bolt off. Impacts, sprays, breaker bar, etc nothing worked till we pulled out the torch. We put some heat on that bitch for about 2 min and it came right out.
Someone above mentioned location as a factor. In my case that was probably the reason. I live on the coast in CT, my place is right by the water so I run into these types of things all the time. Salt on the roads + salty ocean air = rust ftl.
Old 05-08-2009, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Fast4you
there is no rust on my car I want to use my impact wrench but cannot figure out how to give it more torque I mean I know it is capable of getting this thing off I just cant get the torque up for it. Its a

ingersoll rand 231C 1/2"
To adjust the torque on an air gun you need to turn a dial on the side of the gun. There should be numbers 0 - 5, im pretty sure that the higher the number the more torque it will put out. The easiest way to find out which setting has the most torque is to test each setting on the nut, if none of the settings work then you need a stronger air gun. The airgun you are using has 600 lb-ft max reverse torque, which I dont think is enough. Im using a 3/4" air gun with 1000 lb-ft of torque when I do mine in a few days.

Or you can try a different method, a big breaker bar and a strong 5-foot metal pipe usually works well. If you're lifting the car with a jack, have the handle of the breaker bar facing upwards, but on a slight angle towards the back of the car. Slide the pipe pver the handle and use your weight and push on that sucker. Dont use too many extensions on the breaker bar though, use an extension or extensions that are just long enough to clear the side of the car cuz the more extensions there are, the less torque there is.

-Mark


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