All right folks!
Finally going to make the move to bring back my CLS-6 from the dead. I first bought the car 1 year ago with 100k miles and a CEL light. Came to find that 2 cylinders were low on compression (burnt exhaust valves and piston rings that didn't hold compression) as well as a few other small problems. The clutch is slipping like no tomorrow, the MPG is about 10, and the car is just about on its last legs.
This thread is primarily intended for me to gain some valuable insight that any member may be able to give, but it could turn into a build thread of some sort provided I have the time to document the whole process while balancing work and school.

So lets start with a parts list.....all parts will be new unless otherwise stated
1. used JDM inspire type s j32a engine
2. aasco lightweight flywheel
3. LUK OEM clutch kit
4. xlr8 62a motor mounts
5. hybrid racing shifter cable bushings
6. OEM shifter cables
7. stainless steel clutch line
8. OEM timing belt kit
9. OEM rear main seal
10. x-s power stainless headers

Main concerns I have are hooking up the USDM 6-speed ecu to the JDM engine and finding a way to plug the extra coolant outlet that the JDM inspires had. Anyone with experience doing this swap or who could chime in with any advice is welcome to post! Thanks!

 

tbh i don't see why you would spend the time on it, maybe creating more headaches for yourself, when you can probably find a j32a2 easier

 

Everything sounds awesome except the engine. Why get a JDM engine? They don't have more HP or anything. USDM are probably easier to source, and are the same exact engine.

Make sure you get a 6 speed engine, the auto engines are a little different.

 

well if he wants to do things the hard way, why stop him

 

Lol, just seems that he think the JDM engine is better. Actually, I think it is rated for a little less HP/TQ over the USDM. Might be just be a JDM tune for emissions or something.

Either way, the rest of the list looks pretty badass. Definitely would be a sick car with those mods.

 

Why would a Japanese market engine be a bigger headache? The blocks are identical aside from a single cooling outlet.
Motors from Japan also have considerably lower miles compared to U.S. market motors.
I also live in Hawaii, so the shipping issue is going to make buying a mainland motor just as expensive. Seemed like a win win situation in my opinion.
About the HP/TQ thing... They don't put out more or less. It is the same motor.

 

I chimed in a thread about this a while back which looks like you may have read.

For the extra coolant outlets (2), just buy some rubber caps from a parts store and clamp them. The usdm harness and ecu are plug and play just like your current motor. No problems there.

 

i read in another thread that the J32A2 heads will clear a J35 block. So how about finding a used J35A4 and slapping on some J32A2 heads on there. Headers will still fit, and you have some added tq.

Reference: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=714305&page=5

 

He said they were the same engine, but the tune is different. IE you can have the same motor but if the computers are different the engine will operate differently. IDK myself just clarifying for him

 

Just get a J35A3 from a MDX. Its an identical block and internals other than the crank which is just a slightly larger stroke (where the .3 of displacement comes from) and everything to the J32A2. Reuse your type-s heads or at min your cams and you will have a 3.5 type-s

 

Just buy a different car and save yourself a ton of money and time and headaches.

 

Buzz Killington has arrived!

 

fixed

 

Because with the amount of cash he's going to spend on all of the things listed, he certainly couldn't buy a used CL-S.

 

^What are you talking about? He's listed about $2k in parts, at the very most.

 

Lol@ theweez yet again. He wasn't happy with his cl and sold it. He assumes everyone else should do the same thing. That is just the human brain trying to justify itself.

 

Not even close.

 

but does a cl-s tran bolt up?

 

same block so yes.

 

I think the J35A5 and newer have a different block.

Not sure about J35A4.

 

is it? i was reading somewhere that the bellhousing pattern was different. will have to check up on that.

 

The J35A3 is the EXACT same block as the J32A2. I know. I bored one out, stuck the 3.7 internals in it and now have a 3.7 liter and it is bolted up to my CL trans.
The Js5a4 will work but it isnt as strong or as good as the A3. The A3 has better cyl liners and crank
The J35A5 and up do not bolt up to our trans (07+TL etc)

 

Awesome! Im guessing it's safe to assume that you have done this swap before. Any other problems that you ran into along the way? This is an auto engine that will be paired with a 6sp.

 

Just made the purchase!

 

If your going to get a engine anyway. May as well be bigger.
But since you just bought the other...good luck.

 

My type-s heads on the original motor would need to be rebuilt if I was to slap them on a J35a3 (burnt exhaust valves.) I want to avoid that headache.
Also, a quick question! I've read quite a few threads over the debate of using the UR lightweight pully set with the AASCO lightweight flywheel. Can someone with first hand experience chime in with the verdict?

 

It's fine as long as it's the AASCO flywheel. The CT flywheels had the problem.

 

CL and CLS transmissions are mechanically identical except for the 3rd gear clutch pack with is larger on the CL-S for extra holding power. you can swap one for the other no issues bolting up and plugging in the electronics.

 

any problems spinning it to 7.2K?

 

Hey there everyone! Back with a little update on the swap.... I just got an email from the company I bought the engine from and it seems that they somehow dropped my engine off the lift... and apparently it is in no condition to be shipped :\ So a few emails and a full refund later I am actually excited to say I may be going the J35A3 bottom end route!
Just to clarify the J35A3 come out of 01-02 MDX and what year Odyssey? Also anyone know a ballpark quote of how much it would cost to get one of my J32A2 heads rebuilt? (burnt exhaust valves on one, the other is fine.)

 

J35a3 came out of the MDX, the Odyssey used a j35a1 its not the same. The j35a3 uses the same head casting as the j32a2 so all you really need is to swap the cams (you may consider having a valve job done and use new springs or old j32a2). You will also have to pull the cam sensors & housings and the cam sensor as the 6 speed cars where different from the others. If you do have the valves done you should have the heads milled to 0.020" that will bring you at least back to the same static compression ratio that the j32a2 cams where designed for, I personally am milling 0.30" which should get me close to 10.75:1 comp.

 

^^ Oddy of the same generation used a j35a4

 

The J35A3 was the only one the share the block of the J32A2 and have the spun cast sleeves in place of the fiber, plus the block its self was reinforced and the J35A3 used forged crank and rods. And if I'm not mistaken the A6 and up used the the single exhaust opening heads.


J35A1
1999 - 2001 Honda Odyssey

J35A3
2001 - 2002 Acura MDX
2004 - 2007 Saturn Vue L66

J35A4
2002 - 2004 Honda Odyssey
2003 - 2004 Honda Pilot

J35A6
2005+ Honda Odyssey Van, LX, EX
2005 Honda Pilot

 

hey folks!
its been a while since an update but i was finally able to start working on the motor swap earlier this week.
Got the motor in no problem and swapped out everything needed to get it running, but ran into a big problem firing it up. The motor doesnt have ANY oil pressure. After some trouble shooting I know that the sensor is working correctly and the oil isnt even getting to the filter.... I even tried cranking it over a couple times without the sensor installed to see if it would shoot some oil out, but none did. Personally beginning to think that it could be the pressure relief valve being stuck open from sitting too long or debris lodged in it, but any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

 

heres some pictures of the swap progess!

out with the old

new vs old clutch

here the differences with the two extra coolant outlets with the usdm j32a2 and jdm j32a


this motor mount has seen better days


new motor in. sorry, not very exciting. looks exactly the same

lunch break and a little liquid stress relief.

 

Definitely make the motor more than a 3.2. Due to the fact u just need to swap existing internals from other cars it is so much cheaper and more simple than doing a full custom build. If I had the motor out and time to work on it I would totally make the displacement as big as possible...

No replacement for displacement my friend

 

If only it was that easy. Pistons, rings, and bearings need to be new. The block needs it's cylinders honed. You take a risk when using a used crankshaft and rods. If you do decide to use used crank and rods, then they should come from the same vehicle, be checked for journal wear of any sort, and be sent to a machinist to check for micro fractures.

The only way to do a quick and dirty J35 build with J32A2 heads is to buy a used complete J35A3/4 and swap on the J32A2 heads.

I've looked at the pricing of stoker parts (oem) and any way you go you're looking at around 1K in parts alone, at the very cheapest.


Matt, might just be me but I think the Image links are broken.

As for all of the nay sayers regarding the JDM J32A, I have one in my car right now and its running like a champ. No ecu problems with the domestic chassis whatsoever. The JDM engines can be cheaper than the USDM ones if you know where to look, and the Honda badge is swag-tastic.

 

Anyone else having issues with the pictures? ill get them rehosted if so. Thanks for the support buddy!
As for the main topic and issue about having ZERO oil pressure. Anyone want to chime in? Ill let you use my mahalo rewards card if your ever in hawaii ;] Thanks!

 

I'm not an expert by any means, so any of my suggestions should be looked over by the educated folk in here.

Did you do a compression check? What oil are you using also?

 

No problem, I appreciate any constructive feedback. Compression is fine and I have 5w-30 conventional which would raise the oil pressure if anything.