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I've checked about this, but came across some conflicting information that I just want to double check before blowing a lot of money on this.
I'm finally looking at getting a J37 IM, along with a B series TB and lower intake runners. On the heeltoe website, it says for the J32A2 'J37 Top-Plate w/o a butterfly valve, with gasket and EGR pipe', which is great because it would save me money. But the same time, there's this thread:
Now, it's been awhile since I read through that entire thread, but they got the butterfly valve to work I believe (correct me if I'm wrong). Do I go with or without the butterfly valve, and would not adding it sacrifice lower end performance?
Last edited by Thefireball; Feb 24, 2021 at 05:46 PM.
Now, it's been awhile since I read through that entire thread, but they got the butterfly valve to work I believe (correct me if I'm wrong).
From a cursory review of page 24 & 25, I read that e30cabrio provides the below wiring info:
Originally Posted by e30cabrio
White/blue is positive, it goes to the right hand connector on the IMT on the new manifold, white/red (this threw me off) is negative, goes to the left hand post on the IMT (4 neg, 5 positive)
With that said, it appears kdawg8526 wires his new electronic IRMC, on his new IM, and asks if there is a way to test it, but never comes back to confirm his test result.
So if you go this route, you would be the most recent 2G CL 'trail blazer' to attempt and provide relevant data as to whether it will work or not?
Originally Posted by Thefireball
Do I go with or without the butterfly valve, and would not adding it sacrifice lower end performance?
This is what the CL Helms states (pg.11-30) in regards to the IRMC system:
'Satisfactory power performance is achieved by closing and opening the intake manifold runner control valve. High torque at low engine speed is achieved when the valves are closed, whereas high power at high engine speed is achieved when the valves are open.'
From a cursory review of page 24 & 25, I read that e30cabrio provides the below wiring info:
With that said, it appears kdawg8526 wires his new electronic IRMC, on his new IM, and asks if there is a way to test it, but never comes back to confirm his test result.
So if you go this route, you would be the most recent 2G CL 'trail blazer' to attempt and provide relevant data as to whether it will work or not?
This is what the CL Helms states (pg.11-30) in regards to the IRMC system:
'Satisfactory power performance is achieved by closing and opening the intake manifold runner control valve. High torque at low engine speed is achieved when the valves are closed, whereas high power at high engine speed is achieved when the valves are open.'
It's such a tough choice. I don't want to go without it, but I don't know how much of a difference it makes on the J37 IM. At least there were tests people showed on here with them doing the butterfly valve delete on the J32 IM, but would it be the same for the J37?
I'm going to try and dig up more info before I commit to buying it. That butterfly is really expensive.
^
The only time I've seen people not use the IMRC, on a j32a2 IM, is when they were supercharged. I have mine disconnected at the cable end; however, it is still plugged in, electrically, at the actuator on the rear valve cover. IIRC'ly, back in the day, the early S/C'ed people recommended that it not be functional because of detonation or something to that affect? I wpould have to look back to be sure though. Maybe tomorrow.
^
The only time I've seen people not use the IMRC, on a j32a2 IM, is when they were supercharged. I have mine disconnected at the cable end; however, it is still plugged in, electrically, at the actuator on the rear valve cover. IIRC'ly, back in the day, the early S/C'ed people recommended that it not be functional because of detonation or something to that affect? I wpould have to look back to be sure though. Maybe tomorrow.
Any information is greatly appreciated. I'll probably just end up getting it anyways to test it out. But it'll be awhile before I report back with anything, as I won't be putting it on until I have the PnP intake runners and the throttle body, and I'll be buying things piece by piece over a bit of time, cause I'm broke.
Thought I'd update the thread since I got my J37 Intake Manifold today. $200 + $30 shipping off a junk car from car-parts website. Much better than the $700 I was looking at, and it came with the black top plate with the butterfly valve.
It's a bit dirty, but that's to be expected. I'm going to take her apart and give her a good clean. I'll be putting her in and trying out the wiring of the IMRC once I get the thermal gaskets and the PnP lower intake runners.
It goes on to explain why the IMRC in the 2G won't work with the IMRC in later generations, and it makes complete sense. However, I'm still going to give it a try as Civic had mentioned he felt a click of it opening & closing. Maybe I can even find some one who's good with electronics to maybe make something for me to make it work? Who knows.
The rest of my parts will be getting ordered here soon. So I'll be testing it all out in the comings weeks.
^
Would it be possible to test the 09 IM IMRC servo motor by tapping into the two 2G system wires at the yellow arrow,
lay the 09 servo motor across the top of the 2G IM, rev the engine and watch if the 09 IMRC responds?
That way you actually see something happen, if anything, rather than relying on something that you have to feel for or hear.
This valve is currently closed. The spring holds it pretty strong. If the lever moves down and around,
as indicated by the arrow, the valve opens via the cable. It's been disconnected for years because of the blower kit.
^
Would it be possible to test the 09 IM IMRC servo motor by tapping into the two 2G system wires at the yellow arrow,
lay the 09 servo motor across the top of the 2G IM, rev the engine and watch if the 09 IMRC responds?
That way you actually see something happen, if anything, rather than relying on something that you have to feel for or hear.
This valve is currently closed. The spring holds it pretty strong. If the lever moves down and around,
as indicated by the arrow, the valve opens via the cable. It's been disconnected for years because of the blower kit.
Good job finding that thread, BTW.
I could take the top plate from the J37 IM, and just connect the two wires from the old IMRC, and actually watch it move off the IM. Can't imagine it'll hurt the engine too much, if at all.
Perhaps I'll try that this weekend. I just wanted to wait to do all that when I got the parts.
But if what that thread said was true, I don't imagine creating a board to put it back in the closed position would be too hard. I mean, I don't know crap about circuitry, but it can't be that difficult. Just need a way to reverse the power, and something that signals it when to do that.
I've come back with good news, and an end to this thread. Civic was right, and that other poster was wrong. I'm glad I decided to get the butterfly valve after all.
Wow! Thank you. Did you wire this up the same way as described in other threads?
Yeup. If you look at the wires, they're the exact same, so it won't be hard to figure out which one goes where.
White/blue is positive and White/red is negative. It's the same for both the connector on the 2G and the IMRC on the J37 IM.
Thanks. I did the IM swap too and felt the power increase across the band even though that thread said it shouldn't work. Good to have some confirmation.
Any check engine light or idle issues? I had that IM installed when I acquired my CL but converted it back to factory spec bc of those issues
I put on a 74mm B series Skunk2 Throttle body without my IACV. I threw the TPS on without realizing I needed to adjust it using a multimeter. I got that all set up and as close to .48V & 4.5V as I could. I recently just got my bracket from P2R for my IACV, and I'm currently in search of screws that fits that bracket.
So, back to your question. Being that I'm an AV6 auto, and I had to do a VSA delete (as mentioned in my newer thread), yes, I do have a CEL. I think I finally figured out the resistor trick regarding the VSA delete, and will be updating that thread, with pics, come this weekend.
So I can't exactly answer your question as of now. But once I get the IACV and VSA delete solved, I will tell you how things go. But as of now, I can tell you that with the Skunk2 TB, that my engine loves to hang at 1500 RPM when letting off the throttle at around 45-50 MPH. So much so that my car jerks sometimes. I hope to fix that issue with the IACV.
Last edited by Thefireball; Mar 31, 2021 at 01:45 AM.
...& all that jerking wears on those transmission & motor mounts QUICK. Good luck getting it calibrated. I never could get it right. The power was sick though
...& all that jerking wears on those transmission & motor mounts QUICK. Good luck getting it calibrated. I never could get it right. The power was sick though
After installing the IACV, I no longer have a CEL and no more rev hanging at 1500 RPMs with the jerkiness. The only idle issue I have is with the AC on, but I can fix that by adjusting the throttle plate and/or the idle screw on the TB.
And sorry for the overly long post before. I was drunk.
The IACV was all I was missing. Now I'm feeling intake manifold remorse . I wish I would've know that years ago before I sold it. Nice perseverance to get that idle & CEL right
Thefireball, just curious. Have you made any progress on the VSA delete project?
I've been wanting to update that thread, but I thought it was better to wait. Getting a 10w 3ohm resistor has been a struggle. Waited a week for a package that was never dropped off at the PO, only to find out that they listed the product as 'Currently unavailable'. Waiting for my refund from Amazon still.
Then I ordered a different pair off of Amazon. It was going to take a full month and some days. Canceled that and got my money back.
Then I just ordered some off of a completely different site on a Sunday, only for it to get delayed and finally shipped out today. Should be here by Saturday. Might get it done then or Sunday.
Figured I'd update this thread with one last post showing pics of the set up since it pertains to the intake. I still plan on adding the odyssey spacer, but I need to lift the hood first. Will upgrade to the 80mm TB in the future to match the 4inch intake. Also need to get a new plug for the IAT as I accidently cut too much of the lead off and I'm afraid of the solder breaking off again.
Been driving with this set up for a bit now, and only issue I've faced was fixed by the IACV, then the throttle stop screw fell out and I had to readjust everything again. But it's been other wise great lately. Just beat a V8 Charger with an exhaust yesterday too.
Now it's time to fix up the body and finish wrapping the entire car.
Meant to reply to this earlier. Good work and thanks for the youtube confirmation video.
Gee whiz info, there is a imrc unit(module) under the drivers side dash. This is unique to the type S and not shared with the 6GA body. Just something I came cross in my 6GA wiring adventure.
