j35 swap help

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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 05:41 PM
  #1  
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j35 swap help

need help with my swap i have a 2003 clp with a j35a4 . i need help with the vacuum lines and coolant hoses im using my cl intake manifold and throttle body any body have photos of the hose lay out?
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 07:05 PM
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I got lost somewhere in that run on sentence.

Why don't you take some pics of where you are missing hoses and vac lines, and I can fill it in
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 07:13 PM
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Sorry i was angry typing none of the lines are on correct and i have no clue where they go. plus i have more lines than i do fittings. I will try to post pics
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 09:06 AM
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Quoting e30cabrio:

The only issue was a need to get a brass T to route coolant into the transmission/heater core from the back of the engine.

He swapped the same engine.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 11:36 AM
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I could post Acura vacuum diagrams for both engines but you will still need to decipher what goes where between the two. I'll be back to my shop in an hour to do it if needed.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 06:44 PM
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Talking

If I have the diagrams i can figure it out so yeah if you can post them that would be great
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Wheeler07
If I have the diagrams i can figure it out so yeah if you can post them that would be great
j32a1-




j35a4


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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 07:36 PM
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Smile

Awesome thanks that's what I needed
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Old Jul 7, 2013 | 09:47 PM
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Thanks for the help I got my car running now I just have work the bugs out.
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 12:59 AM
  #10  
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What are the bugs?
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 04:35 PM
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Check engine lights and I have to reroute the coolent lines to the transmission warmer. So any nody out there plans on witch lines to tap
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Wheeler07
Check engine lights and I have to reroute the coolent lines to the transmission warmer. So any nody out there plans on witch lines to tap
What codes do you have? Also, how is the engine running?

What do you mean by "which lines to tap"?
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 10:42 PM
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Im having trouble getting it to read I keep getting error codes its running strong Its got a missfire. Probly a bad coil and it surges at idle . Which coolent lines to tap into for the transmission warmer. The guy who did the swap mixed up a vacuum line and a coolent line so now Im fixing damage
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Wheeler07
Im having trouble getting it to read I keep getting error codes its running strong Its got a missfire. Probly a bad coil and it surges at idle . Which coolent lines to tap into for the transmission warmer. The guy who did the swap mixed up a vacuum line and a coolent line so now Im fixing damage
Holy crap, do you mean he ran a coolant line into a vacuum source on the intake? If so, that misfire may not be a bad coil like you're assuming. If coolant was being sucked into the engine and entered a cylinder, that would definitely cause severe engine damage.

The j32a2 ATF cooler lines run from the cooler down to two small barbed fittings on the bottom of the radiator and the j32a1 run from the cooler into a junction near the heater core inlet/outlet hoses on the engine. Make sure if these lines are not hooked up to the cooler that you don't operate the transmission because it will overheat very easily in the ideal ambient temps.
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 06:54 AM
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Yup thats why I needed the diagrams . Checked the oil its not milky so Im sure the coolent burnt off so now my last 2 tasks are the idle problem and atf warmer lines . So your saying if atf coolent lines aren't hooked up that will cause over heating??
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Wheeler07
Yup thats why I needed the diagrams . Checked the oil its not milky so Im sure the coolent burnt off so now my last 2 tasks are the idle problem and atf warmer lines . So your saying if atf coolent lines aren't hooked up that will cause over heating??
Let me rephrase that: it COULD cause overheating of the fluid which may result in damage. These transmissions have predisposed problems with overheating the fluid in its normal functioning state so yes, not circulating coolant through the transmissions heat exchanger may result in mechanical failure. You may want to do a search around the forum to find out the heat exchangers true purpose as Acura does refer to it as a "warmer" but then why would it routed be routed to the radiator if it was suppose to add heat to the transmission? Lol

Also, this idle problem, is it a wavering/fluctuating idle or a high/low idle? If you disconnect the IAC valve, does it get any better? You mentioned not being able to pull codes due to communicating issues, checked all fuses and/or confirmed there is power at the OBD port?
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 08:43 AM
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The idle starts off high around 1500 rpm and then it starts bouncing from 1000 rpm to 2000 rpm and yesterday it changed now its faster between 1700 rpm and 2000 rpm today im going to change out the intake manifold and the iac. Im going to use the odyssey manifold seeing that its bigger and I will check the thimgs you pointed out
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Old Jul 11, 2013 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Wheeler07
The idle starts off high around 1500 rpm and then it starts bouncing from 1000 rpm to 2000 rpm and yesterday it changed now its faster between 1700 rpm and 2000 rpm today im going to change out the intake manifold and the iac. Im going to use the odyssey manifold seeing that its bigger and I will check the thimgs you pointed out
Right on man. But def try disconnecting the IAC first to see if that calms the idle down. If it does, you may just need to recalibrate the IAC motor.
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