Well, after tiring of the stock injectors running out of steam, as mentioned in a previous thread, I finally installed the RC 440's. I don't know at this point if it was a wasted effort but I thought I'd try. I am inclined to think they will make a difference and handle close to 6 psi without the extra injector.

I will confirm this now, the stock injector was over extended and I didn't have enough additional injector pulse added to keep the stock ones happy at 80%. Perhaps allmotor had a different tune on his ride for the additional injector, but I did use his map he provided with the kit.

These 440's are rated at 440cc (duh) at 43psi of fuel pressure. They are not tuned at this point as I haven't progressed that far into it. I am doing a couple of other mods before the tune. I'm running a switch to the fans so I can turn them on at will, gets hot down here and while I'm in traffic, I want the fan on all the time rather than waiting for the temp switch to do it while in slow traffic. The temp switch will still be active, I just want more control to run it while I'm cruising South Beach, underhood temps are HOT with a turbo.

The install was straight forward and there are fuel rail modifications as we all know. It's not hard and took me an hour to do. The RC's are fatter than the stock injectors, so you have to cut out part of the rail in 6 different areas of the rail.

Then I ran into a problem which delayed the install for a week. I had to send the injectors back to RC due to the aluminum collar on the fuel feed side of the injector. After initially installing the rail, I didn't like the tightness of the injector clip (harness) against the rail itself. It was actually wedging against the rail. So I took it back apart to grind a little from the side of the rail, and thats when I discovered the aluminum collar was too tight in the rail. Took me 15 minutes to remove the injectors from the rail due to the ultra snug fit. One of the injectors was so tight that when I finally was able to pull it out of the rail, it left the collar in the rail itself.

Wayne at RC took care of it and even covered the shipping back to me, 2 day ups shipping covered by them. A good operation and customer service.

I also put on Thermoblok spacers and eliminated the water line to the throttle body. The less heat the better. You do have to make a modification to the engine cover because of the throttle body spacer, the sensor on the TB hits the cover.

I did start the car to see how it would idle. It's a little rough, but shouldn't be much trouble to iron out. On the emanage, on the parameter setting, there is a window to put your stock injector size and new injector size. This adjusts whatever is needed for the different injector. It idles fine with this setting, but when I rev the motor and try to hold 3000 rpm, the engine fluctuates severly. I noticed when it was doing this that my AFR was all over the place.

When I put the original size injector into the parameter setting on the emanage, it does not do this, however, it is very rich with an idle AFR of 9:1. I have a few tricks in the fuel pressure department that I'm going to try once I finish with the other details I'm doing and hopefully will have a good bill of engine health by the weekend.

Here are a few pics for you visual types. Comments are welcome.


Stock injector and RC injector.



RC injector with first cut to fuel rail.





Fuel Rail showing completed modifications.





What it looks like before lock down into injector bases.




In place.






Installed with thermoblock and injector clips. Notice the wires, these are provided by RC, but at an extra cost. You have to buy them for the RC to work, stock injector clips won't fit the RC.





A side view.

 

Great job

 

Very nice... did you happen to fit the TB spacer on there too?

 

mrsteve- good to see your still lurking around. any luck with selling your ride? I really hated to see you part the car out, and thanks.

nitequill- yes, throttle body spacer as well and everything lined up fairly well with the turbo piping. That's the reason i had to modify the engine cover.
I really think this will work out fairly well once I set and play around with the fuel pressure. I'm thinking I will install my BEGI regulator, it's just sitting here and its pretty much a better unit than the comptechs FPR. More adjustibility.

 

No progress on selling the car.

If I don't end up selling it maybe i'll just boost it again

 

SO how's it running?

 

I'll work on that this Friday. Been working all week and haven't had much time to fiddle with it.

How did your 550's you tried work out? What brand were they?

 

Wow, spent the day doing the wiring for the fans and final assembly of misc stuff, like Comptech Swaybar (that thing is just a pain to install), had to remove that to get the intake off. Re-rapped some wires that the electrical tape was coming off of under the turbo and put heat resistant tape on them in the critical areas, reinstalled the cutout, and just general details to make it look cleaner.

On the wiring, that was a hassle, had to take half the stuff apart to get to the wire loom and in the process put in 3 more wires in case I add anything else in the future, that way, I just plug and go. I put a nice switch next to the cruise control button, where the vsa switch is for you auto guys. It's nice to have more control of those fans rather than waiting for them to come on. I recommend it for anyone FI.

I played a little with the fuel pressure before I ran out of time. It idles fine and revs smoothly. My thinking on this is that the Comptech FPR may not be the best choice for this car with a turbo. I have an BEGI fuel pressure reg that delivers the fuel much more smoothly than the Comptech one. The BEGI gives only the amount that is needed and reacts to the onset of boost. In the meantime, I'm going to try to make what I have work. I'll find out more tomorrow when I give it the road test. In the meantime, Cheers everyone.

 

Where did you get this BEGI one from? Good info by the way.

 

You can change the diaphragm and spring on the Comptech unit for a lower ramp-rate now that you have the larger injectors... you can also 'bleed' boost so that it does not rise as much!

 

Good job by the way!

 

Thanks Ram, your correct with having to change the ramp rate. I played around with it this morning and have it set as good as possible with what I have at hand. I'm going to put on the BEGI reg and work with it next week since I have it already. The problem I see with the Comptech unit is when you change the spring, you either have one ramp rate that is associated with that spring. So if you change the spring you have to go with that rate. The restrictor does help, but the BEGI allows you to set ramp rate between the two comptech spring if needed, and this is done with a turn of a valve rather than tearing the comptech one apart. What's even better is you can use your stock regulator with this setup, however, I will not.


The charateristics of the car as it is now is when the regulator comes up on atmosphere, (see's boost), my afr goes immediately to 10.1. way rich too soon, need to work on that, more later as I didn't want to tear into it again today for I want to go to the meet tomorrow. More later.