The importance of a oil catch can
05-13-2009, 02:51 PM
#41
I don't know if P2R plans to make one, but I personally think the market is saturated with universal catch cans that can be used by the CL-S. I installed mine a couple of weeks ago, the ebay ones fit the bill fine.
05-13-2009, 03:08 PM
#43
Yeah make sure you get the heat-resistant tubing, the one that comes with the kit is crap and will collapse under the heat. Also let me know how you plan to mount it, mine is mounted via the purge-solenoid valve hanger with the bracked and wire ties (pretty secure).
05-13-2009, 05:55 PM
#45
Instructor
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Age: 44
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Oil-S...Q5fAccessories
this is the one that I ended up getting. It doesnt come with tubing I have to pick some up. Not sure how I'm going to mount it yet, I'll figure that out when it comes in. Any suggestions?
this is the one that I ended up getting. It doesnt come with tubing I have to pick some up. Not sure how I'm going to mount it yet, I'll figure that out when it comes in. Any suggestions?
05-13-2009, 05:59 PM
#46
OG 3.x^7 rawr
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Centreville, VA
Age: 38
Posts: 685
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
I mouted my on the firewall with a bracket that I made with some thin aluminum. I then mounted my FPR there so I had to move it by where the driverside shock tower area is.
05-13-2009, 06:07 PM
#47
OG 3.x^7 rawr
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Centreville, VA
Age: 38
Posts: 685
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
damn, I just saw what you bought. You could of got an air compressor inline filter like this...
http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Build..._Oil_Catch_Can
http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Build..._Oil_Catch_Can
05-13-2009, 08:13 PM
#49
Universal cans, and diy ones look good and are cheap. But honestly I would like one that's ready to go with the proper hoses & bracket etc. Its also an excuse to add some shiny stuff under the hood so its got to look nice and not just thrown in there. I'm going to email P2R and see whats up.
05-14-2009, 01:29 AM
#52
Ultra Negro
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South Holland, IL
Age: 42
Posts: 1,178
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes
on
28 Posts
from what ive seen oil catch cans are mainly for forced induction cars, usually race cars of this type mount them, imo i see no need for one on a n/a daily driver, not trying to bash or anything, just saying, and if im not mistaken i know on the b series motors that the little valve coming off of the head is usually connected to an intake is used for vacuum pressure and aids with v tec engagment since on the b series motors vtec engagement was related to oil pressure.
05-14-2009, 07:42 AM
#53
Instructor
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Age: 44
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
from what I understand it is mainly for the F/I guys, but I also took away that it helps to keep your throttle body and intake manifold clean. I'm at 118,000 miles, and not only am I looking to do mods that give my ride a little more juice, but I plan on keeping it for at least another 80k miles. So anything to keep things clean and running smooth. Plus it does look nice.
As for the pre-fabed, VS. DIY/universal catch cans. I went with the one I did for 2 reasons. 1 is that it's a clear see through model, which I kind of like. Easy to tell when to empty it and it just looks good. 2 its small.
If P2R does release something down the road that looks good, fits well, not crazy expensive, I will probably end up picking it up. sooner or later! Because it is a mod that is only doing a little, I can't see spending $100+ for it, I think sub $100 closer to the $50 range is perfect.
As for the pre-fabed, VS. DIY/universal catch cans. I went with the one I did for 2 reasons. 1 is that it's a clear see through model, which I kind of like. Easy to tell when to empty it and it just looks good. 2 its small.
If P2R does release something down the road that looks good, fits well, not crazy expensive, I will probably end up picking it up. sooner or later! Because it is a mod that is only doing a little, I can't see spending $100+ for it, I think sub $100 closer to the $50 range is perfect.
05-14-2009, 09:49 AM
#54
from what ive seen oil catch cans are mainly for forced induction cars, usually race cars of this type mount them, imo i see no need for one on a n/a daily driver, not trying to bash or anything, just saying, and if im not mistaken i know on the b series motors that the little valve coming off of the head is usually connected to an intake is used for vacuum pressure and aids with v tec engagment since on the b series motors vtec engagement was related to oil pressure.
05-24-2009, 11:18 PM
#59
Well today for the hell of it I decided to drain the catch can and see if it is really working. This is after 2,000-2,500 miles. All this would have gotten sucked into the intake manifold. Glad I invested in a catch can.
05-29-2009, 10:44 AM
#63
Look at the 2nd picture I have above...follow the hose that comes from the rear plenum. So if your looking at the engine, it is on the left of the rear plenum, basically that hose needs to go to the catch can and a hose needs to come out of the catch can and attach to where the hose was connected in the first place. All you are doing is connecting a catch can in line with that hose.
12-18-2009, 01:30 AM
#65
12-18-2009, 01:47 AM
#66
still confused.....any answers anyone? Because if oil goes into the intake from two hoses than basically everyone who has a cl/tl with oil catch cans is not really preventing all oil from going into the intake. Or possibly people have the wrong hoses set up? idk
12-18-2009, 02:45 AM
#67
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Simply put:
There a hose from your PCV on the rear valve cover that goes into the rear plenum. Remove it. One piece of hose goes from the PCV to the catch can, another from the catch can to the rear plenum. Mount the can securely.
Complete.
There a hose from your PCV on the rear valve cover that goes into the rear plenum. Remove it. One piece of hose goes from the PCV to the catch can, another from the catch can to the rear plenum. Mount the can securely.
Complete.
12-18-2009, 10:53 AM
#68
Advanced
Th can goes in between the flow of pressure and the oil drops into the can in the process. Had one on my SRT, search their forum and you will find tons of info. I built mine from Home Depot stuff.
12-18-2009, 09:24 PM
#70
or get 2 catch cans instead and put 1 on each hose, cause ethier has the potential to put oil into the intake, but i would say if you only got 1 catch can, is to do it to the rear hose with the pcv valve, that is the one that is more likely to put more oil into the intake
12-18-2009, 09:39 PM
#72
I don't know much about the catch can but,I'm sure they serve there purpose.
my intake had a pocket half full with oil and the cover was all clogged up.
before I redid my intake the car started to get a ruff idle till it was warm.
Now it's completely gone and idles smooth
my intake had a pocket half full with oil and the cover was all clogged up.
before I redid my intake the car started to get a ruff idle till it was warm.
Now it's completely gone and idles smooth
12-18-2009, 09:46 PM
#75
I don't know much about the catch can but,I'm sure they serve there purpose.
my intake had a pocket half full with oil and the cover was all clogged up.
before I redid my intake the car started to get a ruff idle till it was warm.
Now it's completely gone and idles smooth
my intake had a pocket half full with oil and the cover was all clogged up.
before I redid my intake the car started to get a ruff idle till it was warm.
Now it's completely gone and idles smooth
12-18-2009, 10:01 PM
#77
i would say not as simple as a catch can (it has to be designed to spin the incoming air to seperate the oil), or maybe not as cheap, but a hole lot easier to mount as shown in the picture (no added hose runs or such
)
the only thing i would say about it, is that you gotta empty it more often, which would be proably about every 1000 miles or so (just have to crack open the drain valve to drain it)(when you check your oil; you are suppose to check your oil between changes
)
)the only thing i would say about it, is that you gotta empty it more often, which would be proably about every 1000 miles or so (just have to crack open the drain valve to drain it)(when you check your oil; you are suppose to check your oil between changes
)
