Hey Everyone!
It's been a FAWKING horrible last few months for my car and I. First, I got the dreaded P0740 code but I did get my tranny rebuilt with a three year warranty! So all's well... Second, some unknown douche-bag assailant kicked in my rear quarter panel...bastard's incredibly lucky that I didn't catch him in the act. I got that fixed only to get a door ding right in the same quarter panel one day later...PEOPLE SUCK!!!


So, I'm cruisin' at 80+ MPH up to my parents' house, suddenly I lose all power! Check Engine light followed by the rest of the "Triad o' Death" (VSA + /!\ +Check Engine) lights came on, then every last possible warning light came on!! I'm FLIPPIN' balls in the middle lane of a busy highway, and I can't go anywhere! I actually tried to keep the momentum going by leaning forcefully back and forth as though I could scoot it down the road...of course that didn't work, but, hey, that's just me being weird.

I called 911, and a cop showed up after 10 minutes and pushed me off the road. I thought for SURE my rear bumper would be gone, but it amazingly didn't leave a scratch!! That's the least of my worries....

So, what happened is that my timing belt snapped...This wasn't the original belt, but it was coming close for the third belt; I have/had 190,000 miles.

Unfortunately, I don't know the extent of the damage yet. I'm hoping it's just valves, but I'm thinking the worst here....

So, I know of LKQ as the best source for used engines, but what other alternatives are there, if any?

And, Morgan, could my tranny mesh up with a 3.5L?

 

WOW...I actually started a thread!!!

 

.....Dance, Fluffy, DANCE.

 

Well damn you must just love your cl . I'd be fed up !
Not sure if its a good idea but you can just get a j35a4 off ebay for like $550 shipped .

 

Thank You, Mike, for responding!!!

I am kinda fed-up, but given that I JUST rebuilt the tranny, it seems like a total waste to let it go....and yes, I do get attached to my cars.

I guess I'll just stick to the engine it's supposed to have so there won't be MORE "shit-tuations" down the road... But, dammit, I'm tempted!

 

Wow that's abnormal for the t-belt to snap like that. Was it the OEM brand belt, or an aftermarket one?

It's definitely going to be cheaper to get a J32A2, since you can get them for like $300 nowadays.

You could put in a J35 if you want, but I wouldn't bother since the J35 heads and block aren't as good as the J32A2. Only thing you would want from the J35 is the crank.

 

You can get the J35A3 which is the same exact motor as the J32A2 (just a larger stroke). Just swap over the type-s cams.

I pulled the timing belt off my motor when i pulled it out 2 weeks ago and it looked like new with 220k miles on it.

 

j35 all the way

 

J32a2.

End of story

 

Really? I thought the J32 valves were larger. Also, doesn't the J32A2 block have thicker sleeves for the higher redline? I think I learned that from you actually?

 

As much as I enjoy my car. If I were put in the same situation as you are in now. I'd buy a different car in a heart beat.

 

What car would you recommend he buy for the $1000 he will spend to get another engine installed and the car back on the road?

 

Thank you, Anthracite! I sure as HELL don't have the $3200 the stealership wants to drop a used motor in nor do I have the credit to get anything...(I just checked my score...).

And, you need to put an "s" in front of the "he".... I thought everyone knew that I'm a chick by now!

 

Damn, that sucks. But a straight J32A2 swap would the the most cost effective.
I hope you get it back on the road soon!

 

Not to mention that even in otherwise good condition, a 10+ year old car with a shot engine is worthless. She'll be lucky to pick up a few hundred from a salvager, and not everyone has the time, means, or patience for a part-out. Get an engine in the car, and she can easily double her money. Even if she was resigned to moving on, the CL is better able to help her get there running than not.

 

Catfisha for starters let me say I hate to hear about your string of bad luck. You could swap a j32a2 or a j35a3 for about the same money, the j32a2 would be a little cheaper but the 35 would be way more fun. I personal picked put a j35a3 last week to do cheap 3.5 build, got it delivered for $280 with 100K. There is no difference between the blocks both have spun cast cylinder walls and reinforced block webing. The heads are the same casting, even though the j32a2 as 1mm intake valve the seat opening is the same size so no added flow. I can pick up a complete gasket set for less then $200 and timing belt water pump...ect for around $200. I would recommend at least a CLS cams (I have a new set laying hear if you want them PM me) and you can either have the heads milled .030" over or run thinner head gaskets to pick up at least the 0.5:1 compression difference lost between the 3.5 and 3.2. Actually milling 0.030" off the head should put you in the 10.75:1 range and is a little cheaper then the thinner head gaskets, figure maybe $200.

So for about $1100 you can put together a J35a3/a2.
$300 long block j35a3
$200 Gasket set
$200 Timing set
$200 CLS cams
$200 Milling heads

$1100 total 3.5
or
$700 total 3.2

All this is assuming you can do the work your self or have some one to help you and the the longblock you recive passes a compression and leakdown test. Most used longblock come with a 30 or 90 warranty period.

 

Valves are 1mm larger but the opening is the same size. and no, the sleeves are the same. Its the exact same block.

 

Might I ask why you don't just use your j32a2 head unless you have a j32a1 and in that case , I get it .

 

mikebikelife I do have a j32a2 but it's in my DD so I plan on building my j35a3 engine while I still drive my car plus I got a long block. Then I only need half a day to do an engine swap. I will also be doing head work, PnP intake mani, big TB, under drive pulley set, and header w/ cat delete at the same time. It will be way easier to do this on a stand then in the car. Thanks for looking out though!

 

VERY NICE ! My plans are similar .

 

So Jess, what will it be...turbo? Nitrous? Supercharged? Hehehe...

 

FI is always fun!!!!

 

I guess I should change the name of this thread, because I DON'T have to get a whole new engine!!

For some 'tarded reason, I thought GEICO would only pay for towing to the nearest stealership. I found out later that it's only the first 10 miles! So, in case you were wondering, THAT'S why I towed it there...

I knew already about the $120 diagnostic fee...whatever, that's fine. The service dude said that they were gonna try to put on a "shop timing belt" at no cost to see if my car would start again; I said ok... Car ran for a second and died as I was told. They quoted me a used engine with 115,000 miles at $3200. I can't afford that! My car sat there for a week while I was trying to figure out what to do.

In the meantime, I found out from every last mechanic friend that checking to see if I'd still run by putting a timing belt on was the STUPIDEST thing to do to an interference engine!!! Hell, I should've known better myself, but I'm not a mechanic....

Then I got a hold of Yungone501 (Robert)........he said he'd check out the engine damage for me!!

I called the stealership and told them that I was gonna get my car hauled off. They came back at me with $450 bill! All from putting a stupid timing belt on and trying to fuck up my engine some more! I never knew that they were gonna charge me for that, PLUS the service guy said he wasn't!

I bartered with the stealership...well, MBP_Baller (Travis) actually did the bartering because I'm a pansy-ass push-over when it comes to any conflict or tension... So, they finally agreed to $200, but they were gonna take their stinkin' timing belt back...WEIRDOS! So, they leave all the pulleys, etc. in a box in the front seat.

FINALLY, I got my car to Robert's! He pulled the heads, and 10 out of 12 intake valve were bent but no exhaust valves were damaged...



He checked my pistons over, and they're all fine!!!

These are my front three cylinders....


Note the motor mount....I don't have a clue if the stealership did that or what!

Yeah...and they kept telling me that my mounts were fine....LIARS!!!



So, FINALLY, my car is in great hands!!!

 

Ehrmagerd, you could have just popped in a $300 j32a2 from the start lol.

 

"Ehrmagerd".... I thought it was someone's user name for a second...

I wanted to see how bad shit inside was...'cause I'm morbid...

 

I REALLY miss my car.... This car has spoiled me ROTTEN....for the most part... LOL! Robert, you are forewarned as to the state of my suspension: Poor car has a moderate case of arthritis!

 

look up on craigslist or junkyard i was lucky i picked mine j32a2 for $200 and it ran fine... put on new belt and get rid of it is the best advise i can give you.

i know your fillings i still miss my cl but thats not gonna end.

i swaped my engine in the garage in two afternoons

 

Awwww.... That's a depressing statement...

 

I hate to hear about your issues with the stealership, they SUCK!!! ThinJim has a new set of j32a2 valves for sale in the BM for cheap!! might check it out if all it did was mess up the valves. But really for what you could rebuild the heads for you could get a used eng. for -$300 and do a timing set that you already need and be down the road.

 

I'm sure Robert has tons of valves rolling around the shop for her lol .

 

??????

 

Glad Robert was able to help out

 

You have so many spare parts * , Robert .

 

Which dealership set that cluster into motion? I don't frequent any for service on my CL anymore, but in the instance I pick up a later-model Acura with some warranty coverage remaining, I'd like to know whose service department I should plan on never frequenting.

 

You live around here? ! And you have a CL? !
It's David McDavid in Plano. (I can't delete this damn rogue semicolon with this phone app LOL--->):

 

I can. I did.

I more or less live in the Fort Worth/Alliance area, and I've had my CL since around this time in '07. Bought it from Vandergriff in Arlington, but had it serviced at Mac Churchill until I was no longer satisfied with the value of service. Favorable perception or not, $120 an hour labor, even for diagnostics, is ludicrous IMO. I wrench on the simple stuff, and use a shop that's 3-5 minutes away for whatever I don't want to make an extended project out of. Which has been everything as of late. Working nights is great for ducking rush hour, not so much for having the time or energy for DIY.

 

 

LS!!!! now were talking!! Might as well do it right and make it RWD while your at it.