How loud are our injectors?
12-14-2009, 02:05 PM
#41
Racer
Ok, got back from the dealership again after a valve adjustment and he said yes they were off. To me the car still sounds loud and it's driving me crazy. So I'm just going to give it a week and 500 more miles to see if the sound goes away.
Here is how the car sounds now compared to the other video. Anyone notice a difference?
Here is how the car sounds now compared to the other video. Anyone notice a difference?
Well it definitely sounds quieter to me and like a step in the right direction. I'm right with you, $3200, it should be perfect. Considered calling Acura about the dealership? I know I would do that IF the issue doesn't get resolved.
I'm sorry I don't know how noisy the engines are supposed to be. Mine's at 108k and I'm going to adjust the valves myself when I do the timing belt service. Mine sounds about like yours in the video and my mechanic and a few others don't seem to think it is a problem yet. I would think it should be quieter than yours used to be anyway, even before a break in... new cars are that much noiser when you first buy them.
Sorry I can't offer more technical details, but hang in there, glad your making progress!
12-14-2009, 02:44 PM
#42
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I mean, the good thing is, the dealership is obviously working with me because they did the entire valve adjustment again this morning so they know something isn't right either but the tech just can't pinpoint it.
I went in and looked over the valve adjustment and he had the right feeler gauges (two sided, .21mm and .30mm) and everything seemed to be in spec for the valves after readjusting them. The back exhaust ones were off almost 3/4 of a turn which is pretty big.
As for the valve replacement, we talked about the lapping compound used on the seats and the valves and I said, "you're 100% sure no other valves were bent and might have been missed". He said he was sure that only the 6 valves needed replaced.
As for calling Acura corporate, that will be down the line, this place is working with me and until they refuse to help me solve the problem I'm going to stay civil.
I really don't know what else can be done from this point besides wait and drive it for a week. If the sound doesn't go away in a week, I'm not sure what else can be done.
I went in and looked over the valve adjustment and he had the right feeler gauges (two sided, .21mm and .30mm) and everything seemed to be in spec for the valves after readjusting them. The back exhaust ones were off almost 3/4 of a turn which is pretty big.
As for the valve replacement, we talked about the lapping compound used on the seats and the valves and I said, "you're 100% sure no other valves were bent and might have been missed". He said he was sure that only the 6 valves needed replaced.
As for calling Acura corporate, that will be down the line, this place is working with me and until they refuse to help me solve the problem I'm going to stay civil.
I really don't know what else can be done from this point besides wait and drive it for a week. If the sound doesn't go away in a week, I'm not sure what else can be done.
Last edited by pits200; 12-14-2009 at 02:46 PM.
12-14-2009, 02:48 PM
#43
Three Wheelin'
I mean, the good thing is, the dealership is obviously working with me because they did the entire valve adjustment again this morning so they know something isn't right either but the tech just can't pinpoint it.
I went in and looked over the valve adjustment and he had the right feeler gauges (two sided, .21mm and .30mm) and everything seemed to be in spec for the valves after readjusting them. The back exhaust ones were off almost 3/4 of a turn which is pretty big.
As for the valve replacement, we talked about the lapping compound used on the seats and the valves and I said, "you're 100% sure no other valves were bent and might have been missed". He said he was sure that only the 6 valves needed replaced.
As for calling Acura corporate, that will be down the line, this place is working with me and until they refuse to help me solve the problem I'm going to stay civil.
I really don't know what else can be done from this point besides wait and drive it for a week. If the sound doesn't go away in a week, I'm not sure what else can be done.
I went in and looked over the valve adjustment and he had the right feeler gauges (two sided, .21mm and .30mm) and everything seemed to be in spec for the valves after readjusting them. The back exhaust ones were off almost 3/4 of a turn which is pretty big.
As for the valve replacement, we talked about the lapping compound used on the seats and the valves and I said, "you're 100% sure no other valves were bent and might have been missed". He said he was sure that only the 6 valves needed replaced.
As for calling Acura corporate, that will be down the line, this place is working with me and until they refuse to help me solve the problem I'm going to stay civil.
I really don't know what else can be done from this point besides wait and drive it for a week. If the sound doesn't go away in a week, I'm not sure what else can be done.
Like you said, you spent 3200 it should be right. Just do like you said, drive a bit then hav'em check it agin.
12-14-2009, 02:56 PM
#44
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Two step lapping compound, course then fine. And he mention how it takes some time for the valves to seat properly when doing this.
I mean, I wish I knew what to think, I need a video of a smooth running j-engine so I have it for comparison. My mind is so muddled with ticks and clicks and thuds that I forget what a smooth engine sounds like for comparison.
What I'm also perturbed with is when they started doing all this work, I said, if there is anything that is worn and noticeable, call me, I will most likely want to replace it since the labor would most likely already be included with the valve job and I would only have to buy the part.
So as we're talking about the noises, the tech tells me, "well the engine does have 200k on it". But I kept saying, that has nothing to do with these noises and it's directly related to the valve train with is suppose to be mint after all this money and work. You don't just partially fix something and overlook anything else.
Man, I'm bout to sell all of my cars and just start riding a bike. (a bike bike, not a motorcycle)
I mean, I wish I knew what to think, I need a video of a smooth running j-engine so I have it for comparison. My mind is so muddled with ticks and clicks and thuds that I forget what a smooth engine sounds like for comparison.
What I'm also perturbed with is when they started doing all this work, I said, if there is anything that is worn and noticeable, call me, I will most likely want to replace it since the labor would most likely already be included with the valve job and I would only have to buy the part.
So as we're talking about the noises, the tech tells me, "well the engine does have 200k on it". But I kept saying, that has nothing to do with these noises and it's directly related to the valve train with is suppose to be mint after all this money and work. You don't just partially fix something and overlook anything else.
Man, I'm bout to sell all of my cars and just start riding a bike. (a bike bike, not a motorcycle)
Last edited by pits200; 12-14-2009 at 02:58 PM.
12-14-2009, 02:57 PM
#45
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temp.
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
3. Remove the ACGS (15A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
4. Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
5. Remove the ignition coil cover.
6. Remove the P/S hose clamp. Disconnect the IMRC actuator connector, then remove the IMRC actuator.
7. Remove the six ignition coils.
8. Remove the six spark plugs.
9. Attach the compression gauge to spark plug hole.
10. Connect a tacometer.
11. Open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with the starter motor and measure the compression.
Compression Pressure:
Above 930 kPa (9.5 kgf/cm2, 135 psi)-200rpm
12. Perform the same measurement on the remaining cylinders.
Maximum Variation:
Within 200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi)
13. If the compression is not within specifications, check the followg items, then remeasure the compression.
Damaged or worn valves and seats
Damaged cylinder head gasket
Damaged or worn piston rings
Damaged or worn piston and cylinder bore
12-14-2009, 03:08 PM
#46
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
This is the procedure from the helms manual for the Engine Compression Inspection:
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temp.
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
3. Remove the ACGS (15A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
4. Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
5. Remove the ignition coil cover.
6. Remove the P/S hose clamp. Disconnect the IMRC actuator connector, then remove the IMRC actuator.
7. Remove the six ignition coils.
8. Remove the six spark plugs.
9. Attach the compression gauge to spark plug hole.
10. Connect a tacometer.
11. Open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with the starter motor and measure the compression.
Compression Pressure:
Above 930 kPa (9.5 kgf/cm2, 135 psi)-200rpm
12. Perform the same measurement on the remaining cylinders.
Maximum Variation:
Within 200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi)
13. If the compression is not within specifications, check the followg items, then remeasure the compression.
Damaged or worn valves and seats
Damaged cylinder head gasket
Damaged or worn piston rings
Damaged or worn piston and cylinder bore
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temp.
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
3. Remove the ACGS (15A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
4. Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
5. Remove the ignition coil cover.
6. Remove the P/S hose clamp. Disconnect the IMRC actuator connector, then remove the IMRC actuator.
7. Remove the six ignition coils.
8. Remove the six spark plugs.
9. Attach the compression gauge to spark plug hole.
10. Connect a tacometer.
11. Open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with the starter motor and measure the compression.
Compression Pressure:
Above 930 kPa (9.5 kgf/cm2, 135 psi)-200rpm
12. Perform the same measurement on the remaining cylinders.
Maximum Variation:
Within 200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi)
13. If the compression is not within specifications, check the followg items, then remeasure the compression.
Damaged or worn valves and seats
Damaged cylinder head gasket
Damaged or worn piston rings
Damaged or worn piston and cylinder bore
I'm glad you posted this because I'm going to Sears and am buying my own compression kit. As for all the reasons for bad compression:
Damaged or worn valves and seats- Should be close to perfect after job
Damaged cylinder head gasket- Brand new after job
Damaged or worn piston rings- They said these looked fine.
Damaged or worn piston and cylinder bore- Had carbon buildup but nothing bad.
So overall, either he did the test wrong or something is fishy that they didn't mention to me.
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